Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Old school Weaver rings? Potential issue?

Great outfit. I can't come close with my degraded Savage 16 Weather Warrior with Weaver rings.

No issues on a couple of my lever guns.

I'm a big fan.

Thanks Brad. I haven’t installed any new sets in quite a while, but I remember eventually coming to that conclusion on my own. Not before a few used scopes looked a little more used.

Any secrets for guessing the pre-lean of the crosshairs?

Nothin’ wrong at all with that setup. Looks perfect for improving coyotes, and the whole rig probably set you back less than a McMillan.

Best mounts going for a light hunting rig

Redbacks!

I’m a big fan of Rossi’s, but bought a pair of Redbacks last year.

👍

I looked everywhere for ring options as low as weavers lows . Wound up with weaver lows . They are a pain while leveling the scope but when your done they are solid .

I buy the old-school Weaver rings with the big knobs. They work great as QD mounts and go back to zero if you know what you're doing. Push them forward hard as you tighten them.

WTF does Canada make that's as inexpensive and tough?

All I can think of is range cattle.

I've used them for years, and never had an issue. And you won't find a lower(or lighter) ring.
And if you like Weaver Pivot Mounts like I do, so you don't have to do a quick detach, just swing it over instead, it's the only type ring that works with pivot bases. Works for me.

Any tricks to keeping the cross bolts from turning while tightening, or doesn't it matter?

They work great but I can’t stand mounting a scope with them because of the afore mentioned difficulty of getting the scope level.

I'm never happy with my first guess at pre-lean. If the reticle is going to rotate clockwise when tightened, I try to start with the horizontal line at about 42 min and 13 minutes.

I use a couple pieces of electrical tape for temporary witness marks. One on the ring and one on the scope tube. Then gradually tighten the screws a quarter turn at a time. I also alternate tightening the screws on the front and back rings. First one screw on the front gets a quarter turn then one on the back, then the other on the front, and the other on the back. When I hit the torque setting I want, I check the reticle alignment. It usually takes 3 or 4 repetitions before I'm satisfied.

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My uncle used that mount on an Ithaca Deerslayer for decades, with an old K4 w/dot clamped in. Nasty little cannon. Bloodied a lot of foreheads and noses over the years.

I hate the crappy slotted screws with shallow slots they used to use. Other than those, and the leveling thing, only trouble they ever gave me was oil creeping under the rings over time with a steel-tubed K2.5. I like the rubber cement idea, and also the friction tape Tasco uses on their el-cheapos, which have given good service on my old 581 for a long, long time.

I tighten one screw on one ring and usually get it level within two tries, then I tighten the rest, one on the other ring next, then I tighten the other two. It makes Weaver rings much easier to get level quicker.

A real pain in the ass to get perfectly mounted, but once in place I've NEVER had anything move. Index their position, pop them off the rail or blocks, put the scope back on, and one is still on zero. I have Leupolds, Talleys, Redfields, Rugers, and Weavers. For dependability it's the Weavers.

Have those Weaver's on three rifle's. They work just fine. Solid, light and low. What's not to like?

Light and tough, I use them a lot. Never had a problem.

Using them on some rimfires. Be aware it’s fairly easy to tear up the flat screw heads when tightening. 😎