Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Need advice on how to fix a cracked stock (Sitka Deer)

[Linked Image]

Found a crack through the wrist on a recently acquired rifle when I took out the metal. I believe Mr. Sitka Deer seems to be the epoxy expert, is there any particular epoxy that would work best to seep into the crack? I believe I read on here once to drill a small hole back into the crack, is this the best method to get epoxy to seep into the crack?

Advice please.

Thanks

One might furnish just a bit more info regarding things like potential oil content, wood/metal fit, and age of the material in hand.

Is your recoil lug cracked? It looks as though your action screws were absorbing recoil and cracked the wood, I have seen it on several wood stocked rifles. So I bet the recoil lug area is also cracked. The old Accruglass comes in two forms and the runny one seeps into cracks very well.

I would gently remove some wood with a Dremel and epoxy a small stainless pin or similar item at a 90 degree angle in the crack behind the mag well and wrist area. You can drill a hole at an angle in the grip area and pour expoxy in there. I would also drill a small hole behind the crack into the stock to stop it from cracking further. Once a crack reaches the wrist area they become a pain to deal with. You can do this in steps and go slow.

I always look at the recoil lug area of any wooden sock before I buy it if a used gun and always epoxy that area. Good luck!

Yes, it looks as though the area behind the recoil lug is also cracked. Forgot about the acraglass in the red box, that stuff is really runny. Wood doesn’t have any oil in it. It came from Reno, Nevada so I’m guessing it was just dry as a bone and that led to the cracking. It’s a 1962 win model 70. Metal on the rifle is fantastic though, so I’ve got that going for me. 🙂

I think you can get by with the thicker Accuglass and easier to use then the runny stuff. Wax or use some kind of a release agent so metal does not get stuck to stock and wipe off excess. You Tube has lots of helpful vids if you want some good hints.

I'd be inclined to drill some holes at the pinched in ends of the cracks, build up required dams, and use the runniest, slow curing, compound one can find. Maybe even mix in a warmed container to thin it a bit more. Work the sections with as many steps are required to get each section filled. Then auger out any over runs and do a bedding job. Looks like tang could use some relief as well.

Living in a locale with damned near zilch humidity means wood can do a lot of moving and shrinking. I love the look and warmth of wood, but in a few instances have had to repeat a bedding job 4 or 5 years after a purchase. Have similar issues with wood furniture coming loose as well.

Start with very slow-curing 2-part epoxy. Most brands have several choices in mixtures up to a 48 hour cure. The slower cure does not make as much difference as the open time while it is still moving through the wood.

I heat the wood thoroughly to about 110F... about as hot as you can handle with bare hands. Heat it as deeply (long) as reasonably possible to ensure the core is hot.

The prep ahead of time would be waxing finished surfaces thoroughly anywhere the epoxy might want to go away from the cracks. I do not bore any holes through finished surfaces to stop cracks unless recoil is significant, the crack is big, and grain flow is problematic. In situations like the photo I will sometimes bore a large hole down into the wrist and epoxy a custom-turned walnut dowel down in the hole. Epoxy it in place and clean up the inletting after the epoxy has cured.

Anyway, after prepping and heating the wood, slather on the epoxy (mixed well and allowed to rest for five minutes and remixed) and immediately wrap with saran wrap. The cooling wood will suck epoxy way down deep.Generally it will suck virtually all of the epoxy into the wood. The bits that are squeezed out onto the surface will usually pop off in large sheets from the waxed surfaces.

The crack in the web between the magazine and the trigger cutouts is of no concern for strength and I usually spread a littl epoxy on the end grain fore and aft and forget about. Remington usually drives a pin through the piece just to keep it from falling out.

I do not see any recoil lug surfaces in the picture where there may be more cracks.

If this scares you bring it by sometime and we can prep it and glue it short order.

I will absolutely take you up on your offer and Would like to learn how to do it from someone who knows what they’re doing. I’ll have to know what kind of beer, whiskey, coffee or whatever else you prefer, of course. Just let me know when you’d be available.

Take a camera and post photos here!

This topic comes up regularly so this would help many in the future I think.

John

My suggestion was going to be that epoxy flows better (or thins) at warmer temperatures, however heat generally speeds cure time (until it causes curing issues)

Sitka Deer's post is much better. I like the idea of heating the wood. It reminds me of a really good mechanic I encountered in TN who would freeze a bearing and heat the part it fit in...

Epoxy is very heat sensitive so read the label. If you don't know the products you are working with..

PM sent... Just realized my box has been full.