Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Bullet/case neck hold

When you are reloading centerfire cartridges, how much actual bullet/case neck hold is necessary without running into a problem ? Some say it's better to seat their bullets at least the diameter of the bullet into the case neck, while others say it doesn't matter as long as the bullet is "somewhat" secure. Is there some kind of a basic rule which should be followed in order to come up with accurate loads

I have found the one-caliber rule really isn't necessary with many cartridges.

A lot of it depends on recoil. A harder-kicking rifle (say more than 20 foot-pounds) can result in problems, especially a bolt-action because the tips of the bullets tend to impact the front of the magazine box. But in lighter-recoil rifles have often had fine results with the bullet shank only seated half a caliber into the neck, or even less.

In a single-shot rifle it's not a factor, unless the relatively lightly-held bullet doesn't leave the case consistently. But for many years I loaded the .22 Hornet in a Ruger No. 1 with 40-grain plastic-tips just barely seated into case neck.

It also involves how tightly the neck holds to bullet. Some die/case combos result in inside neck diameters up to .005 inch smaller than bullet diameter; others only .002, or even slightly less.

In my experience there's no problem as long as you can't physically work the bullet loose with your fingers.

Al Miller made a good observation in one of the Nosler Load manuals about the 8mm Mauser. He spoke of being shot at by a Stuka during WW2 while on a ship. He made the remark that the Germans got plenty of speed from the 200gr ( or 190 fmj) by seating only 1/4" in the neck and filling the case with powder, ha. I have only tried 1/4" when I got the LEE FCD. This is with the really short/ lightweight varmint bullets or light Pro Hunters. Crimp it hard (like the German "bayonet" crimp) and get after it!