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Hey everyone, long time no see. I realize this is a great site for hunters and shooters but I wanted to see if I could get some advice and perspective on the title topic.

Got a 67 Fastback Restomod project underway and am seeking out persons with experience and knowledge of such. I've already committed to a Total Cost Involved suspension, 4-link rear/front R&P conversion. Got engine being built by Jim Woods and have a 4R70W on order from Broader Performance with stand alone controller. These are set, not turning back.

What I am hung up on at the moment is fuel&air delivery. Trying to decide between carburetor or TB fuel injection. Any folks out there care to weigh in?

Many thanks.

I'm assuming a '67 mustang fastback? I'm sure you got 4 wheel disc brakes on the menu. Which ford engine? a 302, windsor, cleveland, FE, or honking 429 up? And I'm no expert just a casual observer.

Yes, 67 mustang and discs on all corners.

The engine is going to be a 363 (302 based stroker) built on a Dart SHP block.

You will see a modest increase in performance and mileage with a injection kit such as The Holley Sniper EFI. You should also see increased reliability to a certain extent. Another benefit is that you will have easier starts - especially if the vehicle sits for a while between drives - the problem with vehicles that are not driven often is that the fuel will drain down and/or evaporate. I solved the problem on my '63 Studebaker R/2 Super Hawk, by installing an electric Holley Blue racing fuel pump and a Holley pressure regulator (among other mods). This set-up has the pressure available to prime the carburator on it's own. My mods work great - my only gripe is that the Holley Blue is loud. Since it sounds like you're dropping a boat-load of cash on this build, it probably wouldn't break you to install an EFI, but to me, it's not worth the expense.

My 73 Mach 1 "restomod" will soon receive an Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 multiport FI (427 Windsor). I have the manifold out for powder coating. I already have the necessary fuel system.

My friend has a cobra clone with a stroked dart windsor block. It comes out close to a 427. He has fuel injection on it but for the life of me I can't remember which brand it is. It supports that motor very well though. It's the only hotrod he has that isn't carbureted. It is a throttle body for air but has injectors for each cylinder port. it may be a FAST

Interesting, almost everything I come across shows a carb will give higher numbers in the area of performance, albeit modest gains. I'm not looking for peak numbers though. Though FI will best it in MPGs, slightly.

Yes, significant money is being invested and I know I'll never get it back out but it's a sentimental/family car or at least that's the plan. But I'm not trying to throw money away on FI if I can't justify significant advantages over the carb.

Noise is something I have read about. In-tank with electric fuel pump I assume would greatly reduce/eleminate noisiness.

Personally, I'd go full tilt on modern electrical/fuel systems. Port injection - crank and cam position sensors, LS coil near plug ignition, aftermarket controller. Maximum reliability and flexibility. The downside is complexity.


And as someone that used to bleed Ford blue - thanks for not stuffing an LS in it.

Fuel injection or you're going backwards.

My mechanic is a Chevy guy/racer. He showed me an old F100 he did for a customer and it had a LS in it. I was like "that's just not right". I don't really even bleed for any brand so it's not a Ford thing for me.

It's also one of the reasons I didn't go Coyote. When you pop the hood on a car like this it just doesn't seem right without those valve covers and air cleaner staring you in the face.

It's definitely not getting any type of multi-port FI. Again, it just crosses the line for me in a classic car . . . maybe if was being built for racing I could make an exception, but it isn't. It would be a throttle body/carb style if I decide to go FI.

Yes, the Holley Blue is loud. I built a sheet metal heat shield around the pump and I plan on installing Dynamat on the inside to help attenuate the noise - maybe 2-layers.

On the LS topic . . .why is a Chevy so much cheaper to build? It seems like you could build the Chevy equivalent of the Ford for 2/3 the cost.

I would be sure that the ECU is not attached to the TB and could be located away from heat. Mine will go in the glove box.

Is this a known issue with those type units or just personal preference?

Both.

Because Chevy's, especially the old small and big block engines interchange and mix easily. you could nearly yank the motor out of a 6 cylinder car or truck and drop a big block in. The modern Mod motor fords make good power but they are the size of a 429 Boss engine and difficult to swap in a old car. LS motor are "old fashioned" push rod engines and have a much smaller footprint.

Even way back you can't swap hardly anything with Fords, even within engine families.

I made up a joke about the interchangeability of Fords:

If you leave a engine out of a Ford for more than a week it might not go back in.

Well, I'm just going to stick with the old carburetor route. Maybe down the road if I'm fighting any significant issues I'll make the switch.

Your engine would be easy to set up for fuel injection later on if you like. As long as you don't drive your Mustang in the mountains you won't be using a top reason to go fuel injected. Find a guy that has used and set up allot or carburetors and you'll be fine.

I did a resto mod on my 85 Jeep CJ7 and used a Ford 5.0 with the factory injection. It runs great and I'm very happy with it but during the process of building it I realized it added allot of extra work and cost to my project.

OK. But now the 64,000 question for me is; which carb? Size, brand, mods ?