Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Re-barreling a Steyr Dutch Mannlicher action

I am looking for thoughts from experienced persons with regards to the right and proper barrel thread dimensions when re-barreling a mauser like action. As you know there is an internal shoulder in the actions. The same with my Steyr 1896 Dutch. Some dimensions first:

Action face to internal shoulder .710"
Action face to bolt face .715"
Barrel thread 1 1/16" diameter - 12 TPI
Barrel shoulder diameter 1.140" same as was original
Take off barrel (which is original military barrel) length of threaded stub from breech face to barrel shoulder .708"

So you can see the barrel originally tightened on the action face and there was some clearance of up to .002" between the internal shoulder and the barrel breech face. (That also means there was up to .007" clearance between the barrel breech face and the bolt face but of course that is not concerning and not part of this question).

I am in the near future going to be installing a barrel on this action and wonder what the consensus would be on the length of the barrel thread stud be.
1. Factory at .708"?
2. Make it .710" so theoretically the barrel screws up against both the action face and the internal shoulder?
3. Make it .710"+ up to .711" so it only screws against the internal shoulder?

I did do some searching the forum but met with no success. Size of forum history and not sure the right search term were my stumbling block. I imagine tthis topic or similar has been discussed in the past so if you have a link to one of those past discussions please share.

Thanks

Never fooled with a Mannlicher but have done many, many Mausers. The most important thing is to make sure the barrel seats on the internal shoulder. The ideal situation is to have equal contact on the front action ring and internal shoulder, if the front action ring is true. If you are going to reblue, the front of the action can be trued if it is out of spec. I have seen many Mausers with a visible gap between the barrel shoulder and the front of the action that shot fine.

What Kp said. ^^^ My mentor insisted the inner seat was primary as is proper, but he also insisted just for pride of workmanship that the outer ring be snug enough when the barrel was up to near final torque, that the joint would not absorb oil. Necessary? Your call. But to do this you need to chuck thru the headstock spindle bore with a spider on the outboard end. Then having left the threaded a shank a whisker long, you can try and trim, try and trim, you don't need to go full torque when trying of course. Really cool project LRF, the 6.5 Dutch Mannlicher is a bucket list gun. I have the big sister, the 1904 Steyr in 8x57 J, a sweet rifle. Clips can be hard to find I imagine, mine takes 88 Commission clips without problems.