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I've just purchased a Tikka T3x Lite Veil .308 WIN for my daughter. It comes with a muzzle brake.

I've read people mentioning brakes can "carbon weld" to the barrel so I asked my local gun shop owner what he would suggest to prevent this - he gave me Traditions Breech Plug Grease and suggested that this should do the job.

Was this good advice? If not, what are other options?

I tried Blue Loctite 242, but I had to heat the barrel to remove the brake (used one of those little Lighter driven mini-blow torches) - Intuitively, it seems I shouldn't have done this, as presumably, this could damage Cerakoted or Barrel???

Thanks in advance for any advice

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Take it off once in a while and immerse it in carbon cleaner, Under no conditions would I use any kind of thread locker. After the break is clean then the barrel threads should be cleaned with solvent and then lightly lubricated.

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Decent advice you got. Breech plug grease is made to fight carbon seizing from charcoal burner guns, so should work.
Another good option would be the copper anti sieze grease made by loktite. That is what new Glock handguns have on the action rails.

What is the reason for needed removal? Cleaning? Or do you plan to use a thread protector sometimes in place of the break?

Last edited by KenMi; 08/14/21.
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The reason I remove a muzzle brake is that a 24 inch barrel plus the brake is too long for my Tipton cleaning rod. The patch will not
push out of the end of the brake but sticks there. Removing the brake is necessary for simple cleaning.


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Permatex anti seize compound. Don't use gorilla force to tighten the brake.


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If you are working stainless on stainless the techs at the Johnson Space Center use to use Milk of Magnesia on all threads to prevent galling and seizing. It was even a toolcrib item.
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Originally Posted by Old_Tucson
If you are working stainless on stainless the techs at the Johnson Space Center use to use Milk of Magnesia on all threads to prevent galling and seizing. It was even a toolcrib item.
George

How would have ever guessed?
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Magnesium in solution...

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Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
Take it off once in a while and immerse it in carbon cleaner, Under no conditions would I use any kind of thread locker. After the break is clean then the barrel threads should be cleaned with solvent and then lightly lubricated.




I only used blue loctite as that is what is indicated in Tikka's T3x guide. However, after learning how difficult it was to take off using blue loctite, I don't feel comfortable using it again.

Last edited by BearClan; 08/16/21.
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Originally Posted by KenMi
Decent advice you got. Breech plug grease is made to fight carbon seizing from charcoal burner guns, so should work.
Another good option would be the copper anti sieze grease made by loktite. That is what new Glock handguns have on the action rails.

What is the reason for needed removal? Cleaning? Or do you plan to use a thread protector sometimes in place of the break?


Removal is for both Cleaning and potential use of thread protector. If my daughter can shoot well without the break, I will go that route. However, to start, I figured the use of Brake will help her get comfortable shooting (we both wear Walker's Razor Ear Muffs while hunting moose so muzzle blast is not an issue).

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I use anti-seize, choke tube lube is pretty much the expensive equivalent.

After some home experiments, I’ve come to the conclusion that carbon build-up on the muzzle will effect accuracy, contradictory to online opinion.

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Super Lube the threads for easy removal.
OR
powdered sugar baked on the threads & burnished off will prevent galling-S/S to S/S.


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