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Originally Posted by CashisKing
I have two old Haulmarks (24' bumper and 29' Gooseneck). Haulmark quality really degraded after the company was bought. Older stuff is not to be ignored. Just an FYI

That is the truth, my last hallmark started disintegrating immediately.


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Originally Posted by Dre
Originally Posted by pal
Originally Posted by Bluedreaux
...7x14 or a 6x12 with a V-Nose ...


The V-nose is not very usable space--just requires a longer trailer. Better design has a more rounded shape to the front. Also look for rounded corners where the sides meet the front and where the roof meets the sides. Additionally make sure the top has some camber and is not flat to retain water. Stick with a name brand. If buying used figure on replacing tires if more than 7 years old. Plenty of tiedowns is a plus.

I’m almost 100% sure that the 14x7, 12x6, etc… is the rectangle measurement…. not from tip of the V. If anything you gain dead space on the tongue
I’d make some usable built in shelving.
As stated earlier, The main reason I want a V nose is drag. With bad head wind on i10 I could tell, even with a diesel



That was my thought about the V. If the actual inside length of the trailer is 11'9"ish and I pick up 12'3"ish material, a V could make it work.


Originally Posted by SBTCO
your flippant remarks which you so adeptly sling
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Originally Posted by RIO7


Bought a Fargo, 7x12 single axel with a drop down ramp and side door in 2006, have used the hell out of it, made it into a camper trailer, it's been all over the U.S. Replaced the tires 2 or 3 times, wheel bearings once, it's seen a lot of rough country, on hunting and fishing trips, no problems, it's still tight and water proof no leaks, , , gave it to my son about 3 weeks go, to haul the girls dirt bikes and camp in, They are handy. Rio7


I’ve been thinking of building something like this for a while.


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Originally Posted by Bluedreaux
That was my thought about the V. If the actual inside length of the trailer is 11'9"ish and I pick up 12'3"ish material, a V could make it work.


I bought a Stealth 7x12 V-nose, the floor is 12ft long and the V is 18" deep.


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Barn doors are for not going in the trailer as much.


Ramp door for regularly getting in and out of the trailer.


I have stepped in and out of barn door trailers all I ever care to.


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Not much experience with enclosed trailers (but lots with utility, flats bed, dump trailers etc). In general I’d say always buy plenty of trailer. So if you really want to sometimes haul 15-16’ material get a 16’ trailer and don’t worry so much about fitting something longer into the V space on a 12 or 14. Or get the 14 over the 12 if longer material really isn’t a concern. But with an enclosed you can’t just hang excess out the back or front like you can with a utility so I wouldn’t sweat extra couple feet of overall length up to 16’ around DFW. I’m sure You’ll find some way to use the excess space

I would want tandem axles on anything longer than 12’.




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Originally Posted by 12344mag
Originally Posted by Bluedreaux
That was my thought about the V. If the actual inside length of the trailer is 11'9"ish and I pick up 12'3"ish material, a V could make it work.


I bought a Stealth 7x12 V-nose, the floor is 12ft long and the V is 18" deep.


I have thought about sticking a bubble on the top section of the front...after all you don't need the vee where your truck cuts a hole for the trailer to draft in...it would make a good spot for tiedown storage too.


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Do the math. Any weight behind the end of the trailer has a much larger affect on tongue weight and sway than does the same weight in front of the end of the trailer. The position of the axles is calculated for no weight behind the tail.


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I bought a enclosed cargo trailer last year. I was looking for a used 16x7, they were around $4500-5000 used and clapped out. I wound up with a 20x8.5 less than a year old for 7K. Bigger than I needed, and it had 5K axles instead of the 3500 lb ones. I'm glad I got this one, as I've had it full, weight wise many times since, and anything over 16' really needs dual 5K axles. I love this trailer, but it's low profile setup to haul cars, and while it's easy to get in and out of, it makes hauling anything on ungraded ground nearly impossible. I'll probably sell it and get something a little taller eventually, but I would buy a trailer like you buy a safe... bigger than you think you need.


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Originally Posted by BALLISTIK
I bought a enclosed cargo trailer last year. I was looking for a used 16x7, they were around $4500-5000 used and clapped out. I wound up with a 20x8.5 less than a year old for 7K. Bigger than I needed, and it had 5K axles instead of the 3500 lb ones. I'm glad I got this one, as I've had it full, weight wise many times since, and anything over 16' really needs dual 5K axles. I love this trailer, but it's low profile setup to haul cars, and while it's easy to get in and out of, it makes hauling anything on non graded ground nearly impossible. I'll probably sell it and get something a little taller eventually, but I would buy a trailer like you buy a safe... bigger than you think you need.
I mentioned before that new axles aren't all that expensive. Just replace your dropped axles with straight ones and you gain about 4" in height. You can use your existing brakes to save money. It's an easy fix that I've done twice with no regrets. I'll bet there's someone in your area who can fabricate a couple of them for not much money.


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