Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Remington 700 Mountain LSS Problems

If one can find one of those 1st gen TI take off stocks and have it opened up to BDL, that would make a good replacement for the laminated and save a bit of weight.

Replace the scope, fix the stock, bed the action, the lug, and bed the barrel channel all the way out. Use devcon steel putty and one shot case lube as a release agent. I'd put pillars in too. A few youtube videos and you should be able to figure it out.

Bb

Why wouldn't you fix the crack or delamination first?

A cracked stock will be hold the barreled action right.

EDIT: Replace "will be" with "will never".

Agreed- one thing at a time, unless you don't care to find the culprit.

Also, what if after all the above tricks, the culprit turns out to a muzzle crown in need of re-cutting?

Since there is a known problem, the cracked or delaminated stock, and a stock that is cracked or delaminated as described by the OP physically can't hold the barreled action properly until it is fixed, why wouldn't that be the first thing to fix?

Check the bore for copper fouling.20 years can accumulate a fair amount.
Bore Tech Eliminator works well if you can find some.

Yes it does. So does JB compound.

My plan right now is to throw the action back in a temporary Model 700 stock I can get my hands on, put the two-piece scope bases back on (bedded, though, they weren't before) & remount the scope, then see how it shoots. The stock is a pretty obvious problem, no sense chasing down the others with that known issue hanging out there. It seems like from a quick search that it's a not-at-all uncommon issue with some factory & aftermarket laminated stocks. Assuming that things are much better then it's just a matter of either trying to fix my current stock with bedding / pillars / pinning the crack or getting a replacement. At least I'll know where the issue is.

Sounds like you have a plan. Always amazed at the "modern" trouble shooting technique Start replacing parts! Doesn't seem to matter whether we're talking rifles, trucks, electronics etc. To read the Campfire many free float the barrel, glass bed the action without ever shooting the rifle then post how much it was improved. Very few before and after pics posted.
Pavementends

I would get the split stock sorted out first. As someone else mentioned, if you have access to another Remington stock, regardless of the barrel diameter it was intended for, that may help figure out which way to go. I have that same rifle BTW.

As an update, I tore everything down, re-mounted the scope bases (torqued with a FAT wrench) & scope, and replaced the stock with a Magpul 700 Hunter stock (maybe not my first choice, but available on short notice). At the range over the weekend things seemed MUCH better - 1.5" 5-shot groups on average at 100 yards, and ~4" at 200. The hardest part was shooting slow enough to not let the barrel heat up... I was getting impatient towards the end, and it seems like as the barrel heats up it likes to string shots horizontally. Now I just need to work on load development a bit more and see if I can come up with anything "better".

I've got the same rifle same caliber and it shoots under 1" at a 100yds. It'd full length bedded with a Triggertech trigger. Oh yeah, it's got one of those junk Leupold scopes on it as well. Lol

I'll keep my saga going here, if nothing else so I don't forget what's going on.

I picked up some Barnes 175 gr. LRX bullets and 180 grain Nosler Accubonds for a test along with some H4350. The LRXs edged out the Accubonds in terms of accuracy but both shot consistent, repeatable groups. I think I'm going to end up with 55 grains of H4350 under the 175 LRX...it was (barely!) a sub-inch grouping for me. 54 grains was nearly as accurate, 54.5 was way worse. Go figure. The Accubonds all ended up at ~1.5" with a variety of different powders, charge weights, etc. In general though, no matter the bullet, H4350 was the most accurate of the powders I had on hand that are appropriate for a .30-06. In all cases they were more consistent than the 150 TTSX's with Varget I had tested earlier, even after replacing the stock. I could probably micro-adjust things to get an even better load but this is certainly going to be accurate enough for 300-ish yard work.

So...it seems like I"m on track. Just for grins I brought some different factory Remington Core-Lokt loads I had around (150,165,180 grains) and all of it shot absolutely abysmal groups, around 4" at 100 yards. Good thing i have a few hundred rounds of that sitting around


Edit: Fixed load volumes.

Be my guess you need to stick with factory ammo. The finest bullets you can buy won't help you any when you are loading them 11 to 14 grs under listed maximums. If your loads are typos or your just a left wing bot you have been made. You need to gain some shooting knowledge by doing and reading before leaving your back yard. Mb

The Speer manual goes up to 58 grs of H-4350 with their 180 bullet. I have that same rifle and after working up to it and getting practically the same velocities, I’m using that load with 180 Accubonds, Remington brass and Winchester LR Mag primers.

Thanks for the assumptions, just a senior moment.

That stiff? I think the Nosler loading data sheet shows 56.5 as a max load & GRT mirrors that pretty closely. I always hate trying to figure out who's right - I think my Sierra manual shows something like 42 grains of Varget as the max for the 175 SMK in a .308 but Hodgdon's site shows 46 as the max. Drove myself nuts when I dug out a box of reloads from an old bolt gun and was trying to figure out why the heck I loaded them 2 grains above the max that the Sierra load book showed. I don't have a great read on primers, I can tell an obviously 'safe' or 'overpressure, cratered around the primer pocket' one but not when they're just starting to push it.

Your welcome , pay the money and get a yearly manual from Hodgon's. Allways cross reference loads for safety....mb