Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Weatherby Mark V troubles

Shooting the 150ttsx.
I tried heavier bullets and it didn’t seem to like those.

I suggest trying 140gr TTSXs. Mine would not shoot 150gr NBTs for crap, but would shoot 140gr TTSXs in a tight hole.

I generally like heavy-per-caliber bullets, but with the 1/10" twist on the Mk V 7mm Wby, it won't do it accurately--even with 150gr bullets.

What were you shooting when it seemed to work well in the past?

Initially, I'd suspect the forearm pressure point needs to be removed. I.e. float the barrel. Second, get every bit of copper out of the barrel.

These threads are always funny. You guys can keep giving advice. I'll go out and shoot my new rifle that I just put together and shoot tight azzed groups. Have fun..

It’s tight on that pressure point, real tight. I always thought they were supposed to only be a few pounds of pressure. It takes everything I have to flex things enough to slide a piece of paper down there

In load development last year I believe I went from 140 through 160 something and it liked the 150’s. I don’t know.

I bought a cheap Tupperware stock off a member here. I Will float it in that stock and see how it shoots, and go from there

Try 150 grain ballistic tips . I would not be shocked if it is sub minute of angle.

So you have correct pressure point.

Only have one Mk V and point of impact dropped 7 inches at 100 when I floated the barrel. Not a heavy barrel at all so I'm positive it was easily flexed.

In its prior condition, one would have to apply some scientific torquing if he disassembled the unit, reassembled, and expected to find it still on zero. Before floating, mine would start climbing as it warmed up. When floating, I also glassed the recoil lug region and tang. Evidence of that need was acquired via a bore sighter. As one tightened or loosened those screws, he could see the crosshairs moving within the field. A sign that the action was stressed to some degree. My bedding activities were conducted without any screws employed. Propped everything up, applied the goop, and simply set the barreled action in the stock with a couple wraps of tape around the barrel to assure that the front end was floated.

Likely due to the wood stock and the fact we have essentially no humidity here. A lot of our furniture dries out and we have reglue joints to keep them tight. Now it does clover leafs and consistently holds zero. It's a 257.

Did you bed the barrel shank? Since the screw is in the recoil lug on a MKV there is a teeter totter effect. My MKV in 257 Has a # 3 contour barrel and might be the most accurate rife I have ever owned. It is a 257 bee. It is the way it came from the factory, I have only added a trigger tech trigger.

Bedded to about chamber length.

On thing to check is a lot of people believe that the Remington 700 mounts will work, they don’t. If you use the 700 mount on a Mk 5 if it is a one piece base you can tighten the screws on the front of the action and there will be about an eighth of an inch clearance under the base at the back of the action then tightening the rear screw will put everything in a terrible bind.

I bought a new Wby Mk V Fibermark 7 Wby in 2008. I cut 2” off the barrel, had a custom composite 20 oz stock made for it, cerakoted the barreled action before I ever put a single round thru it. The rifle shoots < 1 moa with every bullet weight at my preferred velocities and weighs 8.4 lbs ready to hunt. It is the one rifle I will die with.

Can’t say how it would have performed fresh outta the box. All the changes I made certainly did not hurt it any. I also have an Encore in 7 Wby that is equally accurate.

Really love my 7 Wby’s.

One old trick is to put a business card or two under the barrel at the pressure point and tighten up a bit. The constant pressure can give you an idea if it's the barrel/stock contact or something else. Think of the barrel like a tuning fork, the vibration begins the moment the primer ignites. Accuracy is about consistency, bullet exiting the barrel at the same point of harmonics consistently. Good luck!

If it's not bedded, you might not gain much. Be careful extrapolating your results.

I have bedded at least 20 Weatherby rifles, probably many more. At least 5 of those are 7mm's.
On all but 2 I have bedded the action and then floated the barrel. I have yet to see a problem doing this, and if you absolutely had to you could always add back a pressure pad.
Bedding a plastic stock can be a challenge if even possible. The plastic material doesn't like to allow epoxy to stick to it.

Let us know what you find out.

Tupperware stocks flex A LOT, much more than you think which is the enemy of a fire breathing Wby magnum.

I put it in the Tupperware stock tonight and loaded a few rounds. Plan on going to the range next week some time.
I have to say that the left side of the forearm pad was smooth as silk, as if the barrel was laying a bit to the left in the wood stock. It most definitely wasn’t sitting in the middle.
My whole plan with the plastic stock was to remove plastic, float the barrel, and see if it shoots with a floated barrel. I know that being bedded would help. If I see improvement, I’ll sand out the forearm pad in the wood stock and bed it. At least that’s my plan anyway. Might keep it in the plastic if it shoots well! Though that plastic has some flex to it! If I see no or little improvement, I’ll bed it in the plastic stock and see if that improves things. If so, again, I’ll float and bed in the wood stock. If it doesn’t improve, I’ll sell it to someone here. Hahaha.

I got to this party late...the only rifles where I have first hand experience that they were shooting decent one day and then weren't shooting decent another day was due to scope and/or mount issues.

I take my rifles apart often enough to clean and torque to factory spec when putting back together...I do use a torque wrench that I trust. They have all returned to shooting well...some have a pressure point and some don't.

Since you have a Tupperware stock to try, then torque that as you did with the wood stock and shoot the same ammo as before...if no problems then the issue may be may be solved meaning something about the wood stock isn't right, either the pad or something around the action...if problems then I recommend as bsahunter suggested and try a different scope next. Do double check the mounts too.

I've heard from people I trust regarding rifles and scopes where they ran into an issue with some well known and respectable scope brands from time to time and were sent back to customer service. I've also seen a well known mount brand also being very off which would cause problems.

Got to shooting tonight. I took it out of the wood stock with the barrel pad in the forearm, and put it in a factory synthetic stock. I sanded down the pressure point in the synthetic stock and also a bit at the sling stud in order to make sure everything was floating. I tightened the action bolts per weatherby specs and instructions. I did not bed it into the synthetic stock. Yet.

At the range. First shot was 21” low at 200. Rifle was previously zero’d at 200. Not sure how much upward pressure that equates to in the wood stock, but it seems significant to me.

I moved to 100, adjusted the scope a bit and shot a 1.5” group. Went back to 200 and shot a 3-4” group.

I’m going to bed it in the synthetic and see if that improves group size.

Leads me to believe there was too much pressure up front from that pad. Especially when I replaced the trigger and torqued per weatherby specs. Prior to installing the new trigger, the action screws were lose….snug, but bit tight and no where near the 30lb that weatherby specifies.

Thoughts