Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles Moly powder and bullet cold welding to case years later?

Doing a 28 Nosler project for a friend. Had lots of trouble achieving low run out and found my case wall thickness was terrible so I neck turned the brass. Now I am getting super low run out at the case mouth but this brass is terribly tough and I'm having a bear of a time starting my accuonds straight with my RCBS dies. (Yes im nicely chamferred).
I'm tempted to dip the base of the bullet in my Imperial Molly kit thinking it might get me started a little slicker.
But I am questioning whether or not down the road if he does not shoot all this ammo with a little exposure to some moisture and on again off again hunting conditions whether or not I might get some cold welding because of that Molly?
What say the experts?

Anneal your brass

I've "only" shot Moly EXPRESSLY for 34 years. Just loaded 350rds of same today(3 chamberings). Through the last 3+ decades,I've shot very little ammo,that hasn't once been "damp" as a fhuqking MINIMUM. Hint.

That being said,AccuBombs are an easy pass. Hint.................

Yep

Thanks big stick.... and to the guys suggesting annealing I understand what you're saying but I'm not an expert at it and it's not MY brass.
All I can say is if I was Nosler and put this brass on the market I would be gol damn embarrassed for myself....there is NOTHING good about this crap. I was really hoping to run a box of his Factory loaded ammo across my runout gauge but he had shot it all up but saved one round for me to use to get an ogive measurement. That shell had .009 run out.

I am going to take guess, but I'd say a squeaky clean neck and clean bullet is more apt to cold weld than a bullet with graphite on it

I have ammo that I loaded with moly coated bullets in 1999 that have no corrosion or bonding. Shoot just like they did then.

More likely to get split necks than bonding.