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Not new to reloading but new to forming brass that is not simply blowing out to a newer chamber like 30-30 to 30-30AI.

I am working on avoiding the silly prices of 35 Remington. I have a line on some new 32 Rem. brass. Just expand the neck to 35 with a neck expander die and have at or ? Multi steps necessary - 32 to something to 35 or ??

Just a new world for me to be forming brass like this.

Thanx

RAS

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I have a 25, a 30, and a 35 in the old model 8, 81 series and have reloaded for them a good bit.

The 25, 30, and 32 Remington are totally different than the 35. You can form the first three from eachother but not the 35. I'm sure that some of the members with more knowledge than me will chime in. I seem to remember that the 35 can be formed from 308 (maybe it was 300 Savage) but it involves a good bit of effort as the case head diameters are a bit different.


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As mentioned, the 35 Rem is a far different case than the 30 Rem series. It was briefly mentioned in another thread of forming 35 Rem from 308 Win cases but I don't recall if a form die was needed or not. You might find it with a search as it wasn't long ago this came up.

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I tried modifying .308 brass years ago, “just to see”. You can’t use standard dies, they don’t resize the entire case ahead of the rim - which needs to be reduced by 0.014”. That’s solid brass, even with cobbled together dies on a RockChucker and plenty of quality lube it’s very difficult and time consuming. Too, I had to turn the new necks in order to even chamber a loaded case. And if ya actually get ‘er done, you’re left with a case having much less internal capacity than .35 Remington factory brass, so published load data is pretty useless. Bottom line - eating ground glass is more fun.




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Some 8-10 years ago there was a man (Grumpa) on the castboolits site who did alot of case forming. I bought a couple hundred reformed LC 7.62 cases from him before he passed away. Even in those days I spent $1.60 for each of them. Seems I remember him saying something about turning them down on a lathe.

Watch the classifieds here and be ready to pounce when crod1972 posts some. It's always been good brass for me and it's priced to move quickly.


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I occasionally load a few .32 Remington rounds for a non-gunny pal to feed his Gramps' Model 8. I sometimes wondered if .32 Special brass could have its rim turned off in a lathe and an extractor groove cut in its place. It never got beyond the daydream stage - I never sectioned the two cases to compare web thicknesses to study the feasibility. Thoughts?


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As mentioned, you can form from 308 Win. I've not tried it. I'd buy 35 Rem brass if I could.


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
I occasionally load a few .32 Remington rounds for a non-gunny pal to feed his Gramps' Model 8. I sometimes wondered if .32 Special brass could have its rim turned off in a lathe and an extractor groove cut in its place. It never got beyond the daydream stage - I never sectioned the two cases to compare web thicknesses to study the feasibility. Thoughts?

That is the recommended means of making cases per a book on cartridge conversions I have. Turn down the rim and cut an extractor groove sounds simple and would be except for variances in the case head can leave a thin spot at the groove. One would need to measure the groove area of each case to verify it should be safe to shoot.

The book suggests 25/35 for 25 Rem, 30/30 for 30 Rem, and 32 Spl for 32 Rem but I used 30/30 to make some 25 Rem when I couldn't find brass. Luckily, I had no problems with the brass I converted (God looks out for fools on occasion) and better yet, I stumbled into enough unfired 30 Rem brass to last me years. I took that as a warning to not go messing with equipment I am not very proficient with.

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Gnoahhh

I had quite a few 30 Remington brass made from 30-30 brass. It worked well.


I prefer classic.
Semper Fi
I used to run with the hare. Now I'm envious of the tortoise and I do my own stunts but rarely intentionally

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