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Benchmark makes both button and cut rifled barrels. Which rifling does his barrel have?
If cut rifled most brands need 50-100 rounds before breaking in and accuracy improves. Is the barrel free of copper? Is the crown good?
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Hi Greydog, Yes 3 scopes tried. Two 3-12 LRHS, and one LPVO Credo Trijicon. Bases bedded, scope rings lapped and now bedded. No evidence of scope or base movement. New Wolfe firing pin spring. 3 different shooters, 3 different handloaders trying to help with load development. No shooting off truck hoods or bunched up jackets, no bipods. The biggest problem is inconsistency. Might get a decent 1”-1.5” 3 shot group showing some promise, then that same load could shoot a 4”-5” 3 shot group. Now going to relieve front, sides, and bottom of the recoil lug and see how it goes.
Thanks everyone for the replies. Sounds like you've certainly covered the basics very well. Before working on the lug mortise, try this as a reference: With the butt on the floor and the barrel up, lightly touch the the barrel and the stock at the end of the fore arm with your thumb and index finger. Then, loosen the front guard screw and see if you can feel any movement. Then snug the front screw back down and repeat this at the rear tang. Let us know what happens. -Al
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Hi Greydog, Yes 3 scopes tried. Two 3-12 LRHS, and one LPVO Credo Trijicon. Bases bedded, scope rings lapped and now bedded. No evidence of scope or base movement. New Wolfe firing pin spring. 3 different shooters, 3 different handloaders trying to help with load development. No shooting off truck hoods or bunched up jackets, no bipods. The biggest problem is inconsistency. Might get a decent 1”-1.5” 3 shot group showing some promise, then that same load could shoot a 4”-5” 3 shot group. Now going to relieve front, sides, and bottom of the recoil lug and see how it goes.
Thanks everyone for the replies. Sounds like you've certainly covered the basics very well. Before working on the lug mortise, try this as a reference: With the butt on the floor and the barrel up, lightly touch the the barrel and the stock at the end of the fore arm with your thumb and index finger. Then, loosen the front guard screw and see if you can feel any movement. Then snug the front screw back down and repeat this at the rear tang. Let us know what happens. -Al Thanks Al. I’ve already checked that with this one and didn’t feel any movement. I should have it in my hands again this weekend so I’ll double check a lot of things. Maybe I’m overlooking something obvious.
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Check to make sure your action screws have clearance around them. If they are touching bedding anywhere it can cause an issue. Everything else has been covered or recommended as far as I've read
Best wishes with your project
Trystan
Good bullets properly placed always work, but not everyone knows what good bullets are, or can reliably place them in the field
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+1 on Trystan's comment. -Al
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Maybe try some factory ammo, couple different loads.
I know, I know, but who knows!
Sounds enigmatic.
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Thanks Al. I’ve already checked that with this one and didn’t feel any movement. I should have it in my hands again this weekend so I’ll double check a lot of things. Maybe I’m overlooking something obvious. I've had a few that didn't show any movement because they were bound up tight in the bedding. Correctly done, a barrelled action should literally fall out of the bedding when the screws are removed. Looking forward to what you find. -Al
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Check to make sure your action screws have clearance around them. If they are touching bedding anywhere it can cause an issue. Everything else has been covered or recommended as far as I've read
Best wishes with your project
Trystan Thanks Trystan. I’ll check that out as well.
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Maybe try some factory ammo, couple different loads.
I know, I know, but who knows!
Sounds enigmatic. Yes, this is something we talked about the other day. If the factory ammo shoots well then we know we’re doing something wrong or not quite there with our loads. If it shoots like crap,,,,,, then we keep checking for rifle problems. Hopefully do this soon.
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Is there another stock you could try it in?
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Is there another stock you could try it in? No unfortunately. His Kimber is an 84L and all mine are 84M.
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When I bed one I want The recoil lug tight behind but not touching anything on the bottom..
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Benchmark makes both button and cut rifled barrels. Which rifling does his barrel have?
If cut rifled most brands need 50-100 rounds before breaking in and accuracy improves. Is the barrel free of copper? Is the crown good? How about that crown?
For those without thumbs, it's s Garden fookin Island, not Hawaii
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Benchmark makes both button and cut rifled barrels. Which rifling does his barrel have?
If cut rifled most brands need 50-100 rounds before breaking in and accuracy improves. Is the barrel free of copper? Is the crown good? How about that crown? Sorry forgot to respond to this one. I just picked the rifle up again tonight to check more things before shooting on Friday. The crown looks good to me. No jagged edges when I test with a cotton swab. I didn’t have time to borescope it tonight but I will tomorrow night. I used some plastigauge under the recoil lug and looks like no clearance.
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Check to make sure your action screws have clearance around them. If they are touching bedding anywhere it can cause an issue. Everything else has been covered or recommended as far as I've read
Best wishes with your project
Trystan Good call Trystan. The front action screw is almost a size for size fit in the pillar. I opened it up and probably about .015” all around now. The rear pillar had already been opened up.
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Thanks Al. I’ve already checked that with this one and didn’t feel any movement. I should have it in my hands again this weekend so I’ll double check a lot of things. Maybe I’m overlooking something obvious. I've had a few that didn't show any movement because they were bound up tight in the bedding. Correctly done, a barrelled action should literally fall out of the bedding when the screws are removed. Looking forward to what you find. -Al It doesn’t fall out, but it doesn’t feel like the action is bound anywhere in the bedding. It’s the lug that takes some wiggling to get it apart, and has to be lined up perfectly to slide into the recess.
Last edited by mod7rem; 11/01/22.
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mod7rem; Good afternoon to you sir, I hope your section of BC is getting weather you need and other than a squirrely rifle you're well. Bedding... ugh - it's like a chainsaw thread here isn't it? With the standard disclaimer that I'm not a trained smith and just like to fool with firearms to see what I can learn - as well as read as much as possible on the same subject. I've kept track of the rifles I've bedded in a log book and am somewhere north of 70, so not the most by a long shot and not the fewest perhaps either? Typically I'll put a layer of electrical tape on the bottom, front and sides of the recoil lug, mostly because it comes out of the stock easier and will go back into the stock easier too then. On Mauser type actions I like to bed the barrel at least a couple inches as well. From what I read and I'm hoping I'm remembering it all now, the actions like a Mauser with a comparatively short threaded section and then especially the military ones with the thumb slot are easy to spring a bit or put uneven tension on them. On 700 type actions with longer threads and stiffer actions, sometimes they seem to like that bit of contact at the barrel and sometimes they don't. Then I've seen barrels that refused to settle down without some pressure on the fore end. When these sorts of variables have been mentioned in previous discussions, there are some in the camp of "if it doesn't shoot fully floated you should A - sell it B - rebarrel again C - get a Stihl so you know you've got a decent saw.... no maybe not the last part. I'm cognizant that for 99% of the firearms I'm bedding, they're hunting rifles, not target or bench rest, so I have lower expectations. As well, I'm extremely cognizant that there are folks who have different accuracy expectations and standards than I do, as well as vastly different discretionary spending budgets and in both cases that's cool too. Did your friend ask the smith who installed the barrel what he thought was a good direction to begin to look? That might be a good place to start. Hopefully that was at least somewhat useful/helpful. Good luck on the rifle project and with your remaining hunts. Dwayne This is a great post with more truth & knowledge in it than most here will ever realize.................... I've done lugs both ways & haven't found any real differences with results in accuracy or consistency. I've found that with typical barrel contours on hunting rifles, that GENERALLY more consistent results & better accuracy is attained with NEUTRAL barrel pressure than a fully floated barrel.............I float the barrel all the way to the lug with NEUTRAL pressure a couple of inches from the front of the stock. It takes a 2 step bedding process to accomplish that......one step to float the barrel & bed the action, a 2nd follow-up step to add a neutral pressure pad to the fore-end. If desired, you can always shoot the gun as floated for results before adding the 2nd step of putting in the pressure pad. Just because the barrel was bedded by a "competent gunsmith" doesn't mean a thing.............might be good, might not be or might need to be done differently or with some changes for that particular gun / barrel. But it's always possible, but not so likely, to get a bad barrel, especially from a know, quality & reliable source. Sporter weight guns & barrels are much more variable in what they might like than with a heavy weight gun & barrel which can usually be floated & forget it. I also believe that stock rigidity plays a role in how a given gun will respond to what type of bedding technique is used. JME, JMHO...............YMMV. MM
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I may not be smart but I can lift heavy objects
I have a shotgun so I have no need for a 30-06.....
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One thing I haven't seen mentioned (though I may have missed it) is that some barrels suck, even if they "look" perfect, usually due to internal stresses. This includes an occasional "custom" barrel.
Haven't posted on this thread before because so many of these "why won't this rifle shoot" threads include an apparently infinite number of possibilities--and yes, I have "bedded" a whole bunch of rifles. Can remember one thread from a couple years ago that went on far longer than this one.
It was started by guy whose rifle shot really well at 100 yards, but scattered 'em at 200. After dozens if not hundreds of Internet guesses, it turned out his shooting at 200 yards was from a different bench--where he rested the rifle on the bags so the sling-swivel studs encountered them during recoil.
“Montana seems to me to be what a small boy would think Texas is like from hearing Texans.” John Steinbeck
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