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H5farm Offline OP
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What is a durable finish for a work shop table??? I already stain the top board. I has 2x10's as the top with a 6x4 sheet of sanded plywood on top. My son helped me build it so I want to try and seal the top.


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I've seen sheet steel.


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Epoxy

Or shop floor poly/acryl sealant

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Originally Posted by H5farm
What is a durable finish for a work shop table??? I already stain the top board. I has 2x10's as the top with a 6x4 sheet of sanded plywood on top. My son helped me build it so I want to try and seal the top.
Check YouTube.
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Formica


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What's it used for? Does it have to withstand, chemicals, oil, heavy hammering, sharp stuff being dropped, etc?


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Slumlord has a good idea! I prefer a metal top! Mine is 2x10 top with half, 1/4" plate, routed level to the wood. That way if I need to use a big hammer, I don't dent the wood! And the metal is easy to clean, compared to the wood!

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Deft is the best I've found, seals and is very durable been using it for years.

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Sheet steel top.


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For my reloading bench I used garage floor epoxy paint...not bad stuff


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I like this stuff:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardboa...-in-x-47-7-in-x-95-7-in-832777/202189720

Nail it in with thin wire nails, pull it off and replace when it gets stained, drilled, hammered, and sawed into submission.

Good as new.

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Depends on what you are doing on the work bench. If you're building bird houses you can probably get by with a Polyurethane finish. For a work bench you want to work hard on, glue or epoxy on top of it, possible do some hammering on, or basically abuse I have been using plastic laminate on my work benches for years and they have held up very well. I can scrape glue and epoxy off them if needed and clean them up pretty easily and they don't need refinishing occasionally like a brushed on finish...
Sheet metal is also great in at least 12 guage, but has drawbacks. Metal bench tops can react with some finishes, leave marks on your wood, rust, and doesn't play well with putting nice projects on at times... For heavy duty projects, though like metal working it can't be beat...


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By the construction, it sounds like it will be for heavy work

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I have a friend who is a pro cabinet/furniture maker and he uses plain old paraffin applied with a heat gun. I never asked him why.


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I had one log ago with a sheet of Masonite lightly nailed on. It was pretty durable, but easy to replace. When I moved into this house 36 years ago, the work bench in my furnace room became my reloading center, It had linoleum already on it - and it still does today. Darn stuff simply lasts forever but I admit it isn't subject to hammering and stuff.


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I used boiled linseed oil on mine..... it's what I had. It works ok but it's just a work bench.

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My rolling work bench has a scrap piece of (40 X 72?) 3/4 inch, once driven on and cracked, plywood on top of it. It is finished with oil, gas, diesel, paraphine, epoxy, acetone, paint, gun oil, Hoppes (etc) , beer (from back in the day), soda, coffee, tea, water, and I think the puppy pissed on it one time... It's decorated with broken off, sanded flush nails or screws, , welding spatters, maybe an acid etching or two.

It's gonna last forever.

My regular work bench is topped with some salvaged galvanized metal from when they took my old furnace out. If I'm working on something nice - well, at least nicer than my guns, but I do that for them too, just on principal, but then I have a low bar... - , I top it with shop clothes, or carpet samples or scraps for padding.

My epoxy garage floor finish has held up well, considering the abuse - probably work great on a less abused bench

Last edited by las; 12/18/22.

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Originally Posted by las
My rolling work bench has a scrap piece of (40 X 72?) 3/4 inch, once driven on and cracked, plywood on top of it. It is finished with oil, gas, diesel, paraphine, epoxy, acetone, paint, gun oil, Hoppes (etc) , beer (from back in the day), soda, coffee, tea, water, and I think the puppy pissed on it one time...

It's gonna last forever.
Archeologists will one day find that and say, WTF?


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We have used BONA, for countertops and floors. Seems ok, haven't had any long term tests. If its wood its gonna require some maintenance, epoxy works good and have used the pour on type. Which works/looks good and meant for bar tops, particularly when one wants to encapsulate coins, Pics, maps, condoms, etc.


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I built one for my Pa , 15 years ago. The top is 3/4 inch MDF and several coats of poly. Has held up fine to oils and all the other junk!

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