In MY 25-06, mixing brass hasn’t made a bit of difference in the accuracy I get, BUT I’m not a great shot to begin with. My loads kill deer out to 350-400 which is further than I like to shoot anyway. 25-06 brass has been scarce around here the last 2 years, so I’ve made do with what I could find. Freezer stayed full and I have had zero complaints.
Recently I posted about a 6.5CM that I was working up a load for that was chronographing 250fps faster than expected. Turns out the brass brand that I was using averaged 10 gr more than other brands on hand making the loads significantly over maximum. It doesn't seem worth it to mix components until you prove the loads safe with all combinations of the load.
I am continually astounded at how quickly people make up their minds on little evidence or none at all. Jack O'Connor
Y'all have some finicky rifles if the headstamp on the brass makes a 1/2" difference. I'm going to pay a little more attention and match the head stamps and weigh each piece of brass. He'll, all this time I thought it was the shooter's fault why I didn't shoot one hole groups everytime. I shoot mostly ai calibers and fire form all my brass so that might make a difference? IDK
Your last statement is true: “IDK”
The only thing different with me is I'm willing to back my IDK up with money any time your ready. My 9lb and under hunter class rifles can and will back my azz up.
In my case for 308, I had plenty Rem brass, fed brass, hornady and some win brass all from my rifles throughout the years. When I got into reloading a few years ago, what I noticed was that given the same powder charge, say Varget, the difference between Rem and Fed as far as accuracy was no different and the POI was zero, nothing. When I tried to get to a max load looking for pressure signs, the Fed brass had flattened primers before the Rem brass. It also showed some ejector marks before as well. I want to try and do a comparison with the win brass but given the primer shortage, that will wait until I can get some. I have heard that fed brass is softer, but could also be due to case capacity with same charge causing the early pressure. But 90% load in either of the brass I tried was dead on when compared to the other.
Different brands of brass, and different productions runs, can be softer or harder. This can make a significant difference in the traditional pressure signs.
I had some Nosler 243 brass (made by Norma) that would show ejector marks with minimum loads. It was so bad the brass shavings kept sticking my ejector plunger on a M700.
Norma brass is soft and the primer pockets get loose before any other brass that I've used.
Depending on the capability of the gun, you may see some issues, or you maybe not.
I always keep headstamps separate, & either shoot the low quantity stuff as sighters, or just shoot it by HS's as a groups, with re-verification of zero for each group.
Taken on the whole in hunting type rifles, I don't see huge swings in accuracy or POI; pressure can vary some from very low capacity to very high as an extreme at or rear top loads.
I was once given about 100 pieces of 6mm Remington brass. I noticed three slight variations in the headstamp among the stuff that was Remington stamped so I figured it came from three different eras. One of the lots weighed about 18 grains apiece more than the others. I don't recall measuring water capacity but I'm confident there would have been a very significant difference, and maybe enough to create a real problem if a lack of attention were to enter the picture while reloading.
I tossed it all and bought new brass.
Don't be the darkness.
America will perish while those who should be standing guard are satisfying their lusts.
In my case for 308, I had plenty Rem brass, fed brass, hornady and some win brass all from my rifles throughout the years. When I got into reloading a few years ago, what I noticed was that given the same powder charge, say Varget, the difference between Rem and Fed as far as accuracy was no different and the POI was zero, nothing. When I tried to get to a max load looking for pressure signs, the Fed brass had flattened primers before the Rem brass. It also showed some ejector marks before as well. I want to try and do a comparison with the win brass but given the primer shortage, that will wait until I can get some. I have heard that fed brass is softer, but could also be due to case capacity with same charge causing the early pressure. But 90% load in either of the brass I tried was dead on when compared to the other.
Different brands of brass, and different productions runs, can be softer or harder. This can make a significant difference in the traditional pressure signs.
I had some Nosler 243 brass (made by Norma) that would show ejector marks with minimum loads. It was so bad the brass shavings kept sticking my ejector plunger on a M700.
Norma brass is soft and the primer pockets get loose before any other brass that I've used.
I've never found Norma brass to be soft. I've used a lot of Norma 7x61 Sharpe & Hart over the years. It's lasted at least as long as any other brass I've used. I don't recall a loose primer pocket and most of my loads have been around maximum.
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/dVRBH7WW/Random-case-weights.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/hPdMmZVR/Norma-Exact-1.jpg)