1-1-1 is equal parts marine grade spar varnish[semi gloss], gum turpentine, and tried and true varnish oil. This is the best that I have found.
Semigloss and matte finishes add silica to flatten the sheen. It weakens the finish and kills depth and luster. I cannot see a use for it in wood finish.
Then use gloss, everything is just a starting point, you need to adjust to your likings.
Matte is to dull, I had to use a finish wax to get a better desired look.
Now that I have a really good handle on applying Truoil on stocks I'm doing what every good rifle looney does- wondering if there is anything else out there that is similar and could be a replacement that doesn't require a big learning curve and would have somewhat equal results?
Would you like to share some of the things that you have learned regarding Truoil to shorten the learning curve for the rest of us?
Now that I have a really good handle on applying Truoil on stocks I'm doing what every good rifle looney does- wondering if there is anything else out there that is similar and could be a replacement that doesn't require a big learning curve and would have somewhat equal results?
Would you like to share some of the things that you have learned regarding Truoil to shorten the learning curve for the rest of us?
Not sure I can put in writing what has taken me many years to learn- and a lot of it is a feel for what the finish is doing while you apply it. But I'll give it a try... be kind if you don't agree with my methods as this is what works for me...
I'm kind of frugal among other things, but this method was the method taught to me and I evolved with a bit of my own experiences to make it work better for me. There is nothing earth shattering about my methods as some who have used Truoil will notice...
First off I learned from experience and different mentors that you can sand too smooth for a good oil finish. About 240-320 is about as fine as you need to go when final sanding the bare wood. I know lots of guys go much finer than that, but I found it brought up small issues for me when I went finer than that- more runs even when rubbing it in with my fingers, seems like the finish didn't really even out properly because it may have a hard time self levelling if it doesn't have some tooth to hold onto the wood, etc...
Second, unlike some guys I know who like to slop it on like stain and wipe off the excess- I like to apply a single drop on a fingertip to a small area and rub it in until it won't spread any more and seems to be getting sticky or dry feeling. Then I move over to the next small area overlapping where I just finished. This works as well to fill the grain as to add finish coats, but takes a while to fill the grain. By time you've filled the grain you are just about done with your job. It takes me about 10 minutes to do coat a complete stock with this method and if the humidity isn't overly high and the temp is right I can often apply up to three coats a day. Some days I can only do one because the last coat is still tacky.. a finish can take as little as 7-8 coats or 20 coats- there is no hard and fast rule here. It is done when you say it is done. Worst that can happen is you have to sand it off and start over again...
I don't sand between every coat. usually about every third coat is enough to get a smooth finish until about the last couple coats - then go by how it looks in a good light and how it feels to your bare hand. Sand very, very lightly- just enough to knock down the little roughness between coats. At this stage you don't need to leave tooth between coats as it won't be cured so the subsequent coats will chemically bond at this point. If you add finish to an already cured stock you will need to use a coarser grade of paper as described above- 240-320 to give it tooth to mechanically bond to the finish.
Once you get the finish thick enough and the grain is filled sufficiently for your taste (some guys and some woods prefer to have a bit of the pores showing), put on a fairly heavy coat and let it self level . You may have to do this a couple times to get the glossy and flat results you want. Then, the most important part of this finish begins- set it aside and let it completely cure for 30 days or more . I was warned about this by two different stock makers and gunsmiths and didn't heed the warnings and paid the price a couple times. My lack of patience had me starting all over again on a couple stocks and doing repairs on several others. Once Truoil has fully cured for the full 30 days it is a very hard and will take polishing, rubbing out, and other fine repairs well.
I have fairly recently started to wet sand the finish with water and automotive wet/dry paper in 1000/2000 grit and 3000 if I want a very high polish. If there is ripples or deficiencies in the finish- hit it with the 3M Gray pads first and knock it down a bit before sanding. Sand very carefully so as not to go through the finish to wood- just enough to remove all nibs, small runs that may be left, and other imperfections. This will leave the finish dull looking just like wet sanding a car finish. Don't forget to use a good tack cloth after sanding. Then, using very fine car polish- (not rubbing compound or wax) that is used to cut and polish car finishes, rub out the wet sanded finish to the gloss level you want by hand. No mechanical polishers here. I use Chemical Guys 34,36, 38 grade optic finish that I also use polishing out finish imperfections on my hot rod. It works great for this... If you happen to go through the finish to wood in these steps- go drink a beer, make up a few adult words, try to stay calm, toke a joint, whatever it takes... and just reapply some more Truoil in those areas and let it set up for several weeks again and come back to it.
I have at times had pretty good results going directly from the Gray 3M pad directly to the polish if I can get a good finish with the 3M pad, but this doesn't happen often. Experiment until you find a method that works for you. Don't be surprised if you have to redo small areas and don't get frustrated. It's all part of the learning process and Truoil is as forgiving as any finish I have ever used, which is why I use it after trying many other finishes.
Don't get excited if this doesn't work for you the first time or two- like I said, it is as much a matter of feel as it is a science and it takes time to learn from your mistakes or even a good finish that you want a bit better. However, most guys can get a pretty good finish on a gunstock or add a good finish to a dull stock with Truoil without too much experience IMO...
Bob
PS- I have actually tried the Spray Truoil and never had much luck with it. Maybe it will work better for you than it did for me but I found it extremely frustrating to use and to get a decent coat on the stock . Let me know if you use it and it works for you
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
Now that I have a really good handle on applying Truoil on stocks I'm doing what every good rifle looney does- wondering if there is anything else out there that is similar and could be a replacement that doesn't require a big learning curve and would have somewhat equal results?
Would you like to share some of the things that you have learned regarding Truoil to shorten the learning curve for the rest of us?
Not sure I can put in writing what has taken me many years to learn- and a lot of it is a feel for what the finish is doing while you apply it. But I'll give it a try... be kind if you don't agree with my methods as this is what works for me...
I'm kind of frugal among other things, but this method was the method taught to me and I evolved with a bit of my own experiences to make it work better for me. There is nothing earth shattering about my methods as some who have used Truoil will notice...
First off I learned from experience and different mentors that you can sand too smooth for a good oil finish. About 240-320 is about as fine as you need to go when final sanding the bare wood. I know lots of guys go much finer than that, but I found it brought up small issues for me when I went finer than that- more runs even when rubbing it in with my fingers, seems like the finish didn't really even out properly because it may have a hard time self levelling if it doesn't have some tooth to hold onto the wood, etc...
Second, unlike some guys I know who like to slop it on like stain and wipe off the excess- I like to apply a single drop on a fingertip to a small area and rub it in until it won't spread any more and seems to be getting sticky or dry feeling. Then I move over to the next small area overlapping where I just finished. This works as well to fill the grain as to add finish coats, but takes a while to fill the grain. By time you've filled the grain you are just about done with your job. It takes me about 10 minutes to do coat a complete stock with this method and if the humidity isn't overly high and the temp is right I can often apply up to three coats a day. Some days I can only do one because the last coat is still tacky.. a finish can take as little as 7-8 coats or 20 coats- there is no hard and fast rule here. It is done when you say it is done. Worst that can happen is you have to sand it off and start over again...
I don't sand between every coat. usually about every third coat is enough to get a smooth finish until about the last couple coats - then go by how it looks in a good light and how it feels to your bare hand. Sand very, very lightly- just enough to knock down the little roughness between coats. At this stage you don't need to leave tooth between coats as it won't be cured so the subsequent coats will chemically bond at this point. If you add finish to an already cured stock you will need to use a coarser grade of paper as described above- 240-320 to give it tooth to mechanically bond to the finish.
Once you get the finish thick enough and the grain is filled sufficiently for your taste (some guys and some woods prefer to have a bit of the pores showing), put on a fairly heavy coat and let it self level . You may have to do this a couple times to get the glossy and flat results you want. Then, the most important part of this finish begins- set it aside and let it completely cure for 30 days or more . I was warned about this by two different stock makers and gunsmiths and didn't heed the warnings and paid the price a couple times. My lack of patience had me starting all over again on a couple stocks and doing repairs on several others. Once Truoil has fully cured for the full 30 days it is a very hard and will take polishing, rubbing out, and other fine repairs well.
I have fairly recently started to wet sand the finish with water and automotive wet/dry paper in 1000/2000 grit and 3000 if I want a very high polish. If there is ripples or deficiencies in the finish- hit it with the 3M Gray pads first and knock it down a bit before sanding. Sand very carefully so as not to go through the finish to wood- just enough to remove all nibs, small runs that may be left, and other imperfections. This will leave the finish dull looking just like wet sanding a car finish. Don't forget to use a good tack cloth after sanding. Then, using very fine car polish- (not rubbing compound or wax) that is used to cut and polish car finishes, rub out the wet sanded finish to the gloss level you want by hand. No mechanical polishers here. I use Chemical Guys 34,36, 38 grade optic finish that I also use polishing out finish imperfections on my hot rod. It works great for this... If you happen to go through the finish to wood in these steps- go drink a beer, make up a few adult words, try to stay calm, toke a joint, whatever it takes... and just reapply some more Truoil in those areas and let it set up for several weeks again and come back to it.
I have at times had pretty good results going directly from the Gray 3M pad directly to the polish if I can get a good finish with the 3M pad, but this doesn't happen often. Experiment until you find a method that works for you. Don't be surprised if you have to redo small areas and don't get frustrated. It's all part of the learning process and Truoil is as forgiving as any finish I have ever used, which is why I use it after trying many other finishes.
Don't get excited if this doesn't work for you the first time or two- like I said, it is as much a matter of feel as it is a science and it takes time to learn from your mistakes or even a good finish that you want a bit better. However, most guys can get a pretty good finish on a gunstock or add a good finish to a dull stock with Truoil without too much experience IMO...
Bob
PS- I have actually tried the Spray Truoil and never had much luck with it. Maybe it will work better for you than it did for me but I found it extremely frustrating to use and to get a decent coat on the stock . Let me know if you use it and it works for you
Bob, Realize there was a MAJOR change in the sandpaper grit sizes and you got caught in it...
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
The snow was six feet deep in my driveway. I finally got to my shed after trying to get there a couple ways. One way resulted in an ER visit and a cat scan. My 95HP tractor and snow blower finally made a single path to the road after a full day’s work. I had to hire a large tow truck to get the tractor unstuck once, good thing he had a long cable. I had to replace shear pins on the blower because the snow was so hard caused by high winds. We got 9” of snow over night and more is expected this week end. I have enough hooch to last quite a while and plenty of food. I could ignore the condition outside and being an old fart (not 80 yet) I’ve done my best to ignore conditions. Yet the little woman wants the driveway clear. There’s the snow and there’s the stock work. So… I’ve been looking over some of the stocks I carved and realized that I didn’t do a wry good job on finish. I have two types of Spar Varnish, linseed oil and have just order a couple finishes from Brownells. I am redoing the stock on my 300 Win and the 788 44 Mag. Plan on doing my 25-06 next. I’m sure I can find others. I’ve read and re-read your guys advice. Thanks.
Normal temperature this time of year is supposed to be in the 40’s. Damn global warming or WTF.
I prefer classic. Semper Fi I used to run with the hare. Now I'm envious of the tortoise and I do my own stunts but rarely intentionally
What is Polymerized Linseed Oil? Polymerized Linseed Oil is created by heating raw linseed oil in the absence of oxygen to about 300°C (572°F) over the course of several days. During this process, a polymerization reaction occurs, which increases the oil’s viscosity and decreases the drying time. Both polymerized linseed oil and raw linseed oil contain zero VOCs (volatile organic compounds).
Now that I have a really good handle on applying Truoil on stocks I'm doing what every good rifle looney does- wondering if there is anything else out there that is similar and could be a replacement that doesn't require a big learning curve and would have somewhat equal results?
Would you like to share some of the things that you have learned regarding Truoil to shorten the learning curve for the rest of us?
Not sure I can put in writing what has taken me many years to learn- and a lot of it is a feel for what the finish is doing while you apply it. But I'll give it a try... be kind if you don't agree with my methods as this is what works for me...
I'm kind of frugal among other things, but this method was the method taught to me and I evolved with a bit of my own experiences to make it work better for me. There is nothing earth shattering about my methods as some who have used Truoil will notice...
First off I learned from experience and different mentors that you can sand too smooth for a good oil finish. About 240-320 is about as fine as you need to go when final sanding the bare wood. I know lots of guys go much finer than that, but I found it brought up small issues for me when I went finer than that- more runs even when rubbing it in with my fingers, seems like the finish didn't really even out properly because it may have a hard time self levelling if it doesn't have some tooth to hold onto the wood, etc...
Second, unlike some guys I know who like to slop it on like stain and wipe off the excess- I like to apply a single drop on a fingertip to a small area and rub it in until it won't spread any more and seems to be getting sticky or dry feeling. Then I move over to the next small area overlapping where I just finished. This works as well to fill the grain as to add finish coats, but takes a while to fill the grain. By time you've filled the grain you are just about done with your job. It takes me about 10 minutes to do coat a complete stock with this method and if the humidity isn't overly high and the temp is right I can often apply up to three coats a day. Some days I can only do one because the last coat is still tacky.. a finish can take as little as 7-8 coats or 20 coats- there is no hard and fast rule here. It is done when you say it is done. Worst that can happen is you have to sand it off and start over again...
I don't sand between every coat. usually about every third coat is enough to get a smooth finish until about the last couple coats - then go by how it looks in a good light and how it feels to your bare hand. Sand very, very lightly- just enough to knock down the little roughness between coats. At this stage you don't need to leave tooth between coats as it won't be cured so the subsequent coats will chemically bond at this point. If you add finish to an already cured stock you will need to use a coarser grade of paper as described above- 240-320 to give it tooth to mechanically bond to the finish.
Once you get the finish thick enough and the grain is filled sufficiently for your taste (some guys and some woods prefer to have a bit of the pores showing), put on a fairly heavy coat and let it self level . You may have to do this a couple times to get the glossy and flat results you want. Then, the most important part of this finish begins- set it aside and let it completely cure for 30 days or more . I was warned about this by two different stock makers and gunsmiths and didn't heed the warnings and paid the price a couple times. My lack of patience had me starting all over again on a couple stocks and doing repairs on several others. Once Truoil has fully cured for the full 30 days it is a very hard and will take polishing, rubbing out, and other fine repairs well.
I have fairly recently started to wet sand the finish with water and automotive wet/dry paper in 1000/2000 grit and 3000 if I want a very high polish. If there is ripples or deficiencies in the finish- hit it with the 3M Gray pads first and knock it down a bit before sanding. Sand very carefully so as not to go through the finish to wood- just enough to remove all nibs, small runs that may be left, and other imperfections. This will leave the finish dull looking just like wet sanding a car finish. Don't forget to use a good tack cloth after sanding. Then, using very fine car polish- (not rubbing compound or wax) that is used to cut and polish car finishes, rub out the wet sanded finish to the gloss level you want by hand. No mechanical polishers here. I use Chemical Guys 34,36, 38 grade optic finish that I also use polishing out finish imperfections on my hot rod. It works great for this... If you happen to go through the finish to wood in these steps- go drink a beer, make up a few adult words, try to stay calm, toke a joint, whatever it takes... and just reapply some more Truoil in those areas and let it set up for several weeks again and come back to it.
I have at times had pretty good results going directly from the Gray 3M pad directly to the polish if I can get a good finish with the 3M pad, but this doesn't happen often. Experiment until you find a method that works for you. Don't be surprised if you have to redo small areas and don't get frustrated. It's all part of the learning process and Truoil is as forgiving as any finish I have ever used, which is why I use it after trying many other finishes.
Don't get excited if this doesn't work for you the first time or two- like I said, it is as much a matter of feel as it is a science and it takes time to learn from your mistakes or even a good finish that you want a bit better. However, most guys can get a pretty good finish on a gunstock or add a good finish to a dull stock with Truoil without too much experience IMO...
Bob
PS- I have actually tried the Spray Truoil and never had much luck with it. Maybe it will work better for you than it did for me but I found it extremely frustrating to use and to get a decent coat on the stock . Let me know if you use it and it works for you
Bob, Realize there was a MAJOR change in the sandpaper grit sizes and you got caught in it...
Art, not sure I understand your comment? I guess I'm feeling dumber than usual this morning? Could you explain?
Bob
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
I sand my stocks using an art gum eraser as a sanding block and use wet or dry paper. Sanding below 240-320 grit makes the surface of the wood too slick for a good oil finish in my experience. Sanding thoroughly with the grain with a grain raising between grit changes produces finishes that I'm satisfied with as well as my customers.
Now that I have a really good handle on applying Truoil on stocks I'm doing what every good rifle looney does- wondering if there is anything else out there that is similar and could be a replacement that doesn't require a big learning curve and would have somewhat equal results?
Would you like to share some of the things that you have learned regarding Truoil to shorten the learning curve for the rest of us?
Not sure I can put in writing what has taken me many years to learn- and a lot of it is a feel for what the finish is doing while you apply it. But I'll give it a try... be kind if you don't agree with my methods as this is what works for me...
Sheister, thanks very much for your insights, much appreciated.
The stockmaking instructor in gunsmithing school taught us to use Tru-oil, I didn't like it at the time and have found many better finishes since that experience.
The stockmaking instructor in gunsmithing school taught us to use Tru-oil, I didn't like it at the time and have found many better finishes since that experience.
A can of Bloxygen is well worth it to preserve opened containers of finish.
Good idea... I usually store my bottles of finish upside down so the air is in the bottom? of the container when it is stored. In any case, eventually your finish will still start to gel or otherwise thicken over time if you keep it around long enough. Until it is fully gelled, you can filter it through a paint filter, or a panty hose remnant, or some other filter material to get out the gelled material or "worms" that form and use as much of the material as you can. If you filter it and it is still a bit thick to spread like you want, I add a few drops of paint thinner/mineral spirits to a capfull of it and stir it in. I do this anyway when doing checkering that has been recut or is new so the thick finish doesn't fill up the diamonds and it can be brushed out of the pattern easily...
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
In the 6th post down from the top I have shared several finishes that I have used successfully. Never liked Tru-oil, fact be known the stockmaking instructor didn't use it on stocks that he made.
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![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/auS5ZvK.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/6QCvGHU.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/DavLg44.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/wsCHRUG.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/PCOEFPG.jpg)