Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Talley Lightweight Failure

I did some searching and didn't find a more recent thread on this topic than 2021, but just noticed this on my Ruger American .308. After reading other threads and seeing plenty of other pictures of broken talleys, what's good out there for a more rugged setup? I'm fine with a rail and rings. Also, these rings weren't lapped but everything was cleaned and torqued to spec.

Didn't toss it into a rocky stream for a picture did you? Not sure they're designed to bounce off rocks.

I like Warne bases and rings. Their vertically split or horizontally split steels rings are very good.

I have used a lot of Talley LW rings over the years with no issues, but thats not to say issues don’t occur.

DNZ has good rings and Hawkins is also coming out with rings shortly that are a lot like Talleys.

I've only puked (9) sets of LW's thus far. Hint.

2wks ago. Hint.



They are obviously an easy pass,if you actually shoot. Hint................

My understanding is that the Talley LWs are basically a copy of Melvin Forbes ULA rings, which you never hear anything bad about. Talley must have changed something with the design or metal used. I really like their steel QDs but I've had two sets of the LWs break.

If one is going to use Talley lightweights, they must understand their limitations. Talley LWs unlapped are not round. Torque them down and you impart stress. Eventually this happens. Especially with excess torque and or heavy scopes and heavy recoil. It’s not from any one traumatic event. Chucking off of a cliff will not cause this. Fatigue of the material does. If you are going to use these things, lap them, bed them, and don’t use with heavy scopes and magnum rifles.

So they are weak and poorly designed, got it. I tend to agree after this failure, seeing as they were installed per the manufacturer's instructions and seeing all the other failures posted on this site. I want something strong that won't break. This is my go to deer rifle for NH, so I don't need 20moa bases or quick change anything. I want to bolt the scope into place, leave it sighted in, and shoot deer at NH woods ranges (never shot a critter at more than 75 yards). It's a .308 in an American compact, so it's not a heavy kicker or anything, but I don't have patience for stuff breaking.

They are alloy, not steel, and light-weight ta boot.

I like them, and have never had a problem with then.

KNOWING - that they are light-weight alloy, and, therefore, will have poor tensile strength compared to steel?

I line the rings with a layer of vinyl electrical tape, top and bottom in ~ a 120 deg. arc.

Then adjust the crosshair, torque to snug on greases screws/threads, wait a few hours, and then torque again.

The vinyl will flow, and the contact will be complete and intimate, like they were painted on.

But the stress will be mitigated, the screws will hold tight, and the rings will pop off clean when disassembled.






GR

Why not put on the Picatinny base it came with and use any number of good rings?

It might not have come with one. Not to discount the notion of using one.

I guess I am assuming the OP bought it new. Ruger's website says factory installed, one piece Picatinny base.

It aould be interesting to see if they’re all breaking in the same spot.

You can get a zero cant rail and pic rings and have solid with many quality manufacturers. Just don’t go cheap and you’ll be fine. Or there are other similar style rings like Hawkins that are better. The only Talleys I trust are the Screw Lock Detachables. They are bomber. Lots of choices for good set ups these days.

Not exactly same spot, but all out towards the end of the ring somewhere, where the flex from stress occurs.

In the beginning, they came with two-piece Weaver-style bases. Being a SS model, it's got a bit of age on it so may predate when rails started.

It’s not just aluminum vs steel that’s the issue. There are plenty of aluminum mounting systems that are very strong.

Two piece Weavers aren't a bad way to roll. A lot of good rings fit those too.

Agreed. Another option if the factory supplied mounts aren't available are the Burris XTB. Any two-piece that fits a Savage round rear will fit the RAR.

Safe Queens all. Hint.









Fhuqking LAUGHING!................