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Originally Posted by Garandimal
They are alloy, not steel, and light-weight ta boot. GR

Steel isn't an alloy? I don't recall seeing it on the Periodic table?????


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Originally Posted by horse1
Originally Posted by Garandimal
They are alloy, not steel, and light-weight ta boot. GR

Steel isn't an alloy? I don't recall seeing it on the Periodic table?????

As in Aluminum alloy, not steel.

The pedantics here - are top drawer.




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Originally Posted by SDHNTR
Originally Posted by Garandimal
Originally Posted by NH_Sharpshooter
I did some searching and didn't find a more recent thread on this topic than 2021, but just noticed this on my Ruger American .308. After reading other threads and seeing plenty of other pictures of broken talleys, what's good out there for a more rugged setup? I'm fine with a rail and rings. Also, these rings weren't lapped but everything was cleaned and torqued to spec.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

They are alloy, not steel, and light-weight ta boot.

I like them, and have never had a problem with then.

KNOWING - that they are light-weight alloy, and, therefore, will have poor tensile strength compared to steel?

I line the rings with a layer of vinyl electrical tape, top and bottom in ~ a 120 deg. arc.

Then adjust the crosshair, torque to snug on greases screws/threads, wait a few hours, and then torque again.

The vinyl will flow, and the contact will be complete and intimate, like they were painted on.

But the stress will be mitigated, the screws will hold tight, and the rings will pop off clean when disassembled.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]





GR
Originally Posted by Garandimal
Originally Posted by NH_Sharpshooter
I did some searching and didn't find a more recent thread on this topic than 2021, but just noticed this on my Ruger American .308. After reading other threads and seeing plenty of other pictures of broken talleys, what's good out there for a more rugged setup? I'm fine with a rail and rings. Also, these rings weren't lapped but everything was cleaned and torqued to spec.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

They are alloy, not steel, and light-weight ta boot.

I like them, and have never had a problem with then.

KNOWING - that they are light-weight alloy, and, therefore, will have poor tensile strength compared to steel?

I line the rings with a layer of vinyl electrical tape, top and bottom in ~ a 120 deg. arc.

Then adjust the crosshair, torque to snug on greases screws/threads, wait a few hours, and then torque again.

The vinyl will flow, and the contact will be complete and intimate, like they were painted on.

But the stress will be mitigated, the screws will hold tight, and the rings will pop off clean when disassembled.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]





GR
It’s not just aluminum vs steel that’s the issue. There are plenty of aluminum mounting systems that are very strong.

Agreed.

Such as aircraft engine mounts.

But, simply, these are no anywhere near that spec..

Given that - relieving the tensile stress by disbursing the contact area, while, at the same time, increasing the coefficient of friction, and thereby reducing the necessary screw torque - works.




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i certainly cant speak on the subject but would corrosion from the screws affect the integrity over time ?

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If they are 6061 aluminum as claimed they must be investment cast. The grain structure appears to be very coarse, & normally seen in very cheap parts.


I've got a pair them mainly due to all the raving about them here for a time, was never impressed.

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I was a believer until I had them fail. No more for me.

Correctly torqued etc. Hadn't used the rifle in a while, Covid, rain, broken back etc., and couldn't work out why it was so off at the range, got home and noticed broken across scews on front ring.

Just using Nightforce bases and rings on lightweight rifles (Kimbers) and waiting for Talley Steel bases for rifle that broke the lightweights (Kimber Classic 84L 30-06).

Shame as I liked their lightweight. But seen too many posts and now this.

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Originally Posted by gene270
i certainly cant speak on the subject but would corrosion from the screws affect the integrity over time ?

Not according to the stress line breaks in the pics provided.

But it is certainly another reason to grease them, especially with marine grease.

Intrusion and corrosion.




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Originally Posted by Big Stick
I've only puked (9) sets of LW's thus far. Hint.

2wks ago. Hint.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

They are obviously an easy pass,if you actually shoot. Hint................


Just curious, but if you have had 9 rings break why would you continue to use them after the first or second ones puked?

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Originally Posted by gunzo
If they are 6061 aluminum as claimed they must be investment cast. The grain structure appears to be very coarse, & normally seen in very cheap parts.


I've got a pair them mainly due to all the raving about them here for a time, was never impressed.

Had a 1/4 throw W/C ball valve shatter after several years installed.

Cast AL alloy does not like prolonged high tensile stress.


Vinyl electrical tape, as an adhesive interface material, allows for a low Tensile stress environment.

And, subsequently, they will absorb the wear-n-tear of the field a lot better.




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Originally Posted by Motown
Originally Posted by Big Stick
I've only puked (9) sets of LW's thus far. Hint.

2wks ago. Hint.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

They are obviously an easy pass,if you actually shoot. Hint................


Just curious, but if you have had 9 rings break why would you continue to use them after the first or second ones puked?


Operator error, aka throwing them on the rocks during a bender and trying to figure out the next day how they broke.

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Damn! Are you sure you put them in the safe? They look like they were parked in the carwash. Seriously, I realize Alaska is probably the most challenging environment to use and maintain firearms. The corrosion on those screws in those ring holes (as seen in the pics) will hold water like a sponge and water expands when it freezes. Also, I would never use lightweight rings on any 'thumpers', nor on any rifles that are carried in scabbards on horseback or otherwise subject to rough use.


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Originally Posted by Garandimal
Originally Posted by gene270
i certainly cant speak on the subject but would corrosion from the screws affect the integrity over time ?

Not according to the stress line breaks in the pics provided.

But it is certainly another reason to grease them, especially with marine grease.

Intrusion and corrosion.




GR
Grease? Scope mount screws? Did I seriously just read that? Absolutely not! In fact, proper mounting procedure involves thoroughly degreasing all screws.

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Originally Posted by Garandimal
Originally Posted by SDHNTR
Originally Posted by Garandimal
Originally Posted by NH_Sharpshooter
I did some searching and didn't find a more recent thread on this topic than 2021, but just noticed this on my Ruger American .308. After reading other threads and seeing plenty of other pictures of broken talleys, what's good out there for a more rugged setup? I'm fine with a rail and rings. Also, these rings weren't lapped but everything was cleaned and torqued to spec.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

They are alloy, not steel, and light-weight ta boot.

I like them, and have never had a problem with then.

KNOWING - that they are light-weight alloy, and, therefore, will have poor tensile strength compared to steel?

I line the rings with a layer of vinyl electrical tape, top and bottom in ~ a 120 deg. arc.

Then adjust the crosshair, torque to snug on greases screws/threads, wait a few hours, and then torque again.

The vinyl will flow, and the contact will be complete and intimate, like they were painted on.

But the stress will be mitigated, the screws will hold tight, and the rings will pop off clean when disassembled.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]





GR
Originally Posted by Garandimal
Originally Posted by NH_Sharpshooter
I did some searching and didn't find a more recent thread on this topic than 2021, but just noticed this on my Ruger American .308. After reading other threads and seeing plenty of other pictures of broken talleys, what's good out there for a more rugged setup? I'm fine with a rail and rings. Also, these rings weren't lapped but everything was cleaned and torqued to spec.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

They are alloy, not steel, and light-weight ta boot.

I like them, and have never had a problem with then.

KNOWING - that they are light-weight alloy, and, therefore, will have poor tensile strength compared to steel?

I line the rings with a layer of vinyl electrical tape, top and bottom in ~ a 120 deg. arc.

Then adjust the crosshair, torque to snug on greases screws/threads, wait a few hours, and then torque again.

The vinyl will flow, and the contact will be complete and intimate, like they were painted on.

But the stress will be mitigated, the screws will hold tight, and the rings will pop off clean when disassembled.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]





GR
It’s not just aluminum vs steel that’s the issue. There are plenty of aluminum mounting systems that are very strong.

Agreed.

Such as aircraft engine mounts.

But, simply, these are no anywhere near that spec..

Given that - relieving the tensile stress by disbursing the contact area, while, at the same time, increasing the coefficient of friction, and thereby reducing the necessary screw torque - works.




GR
Correct, mostly. Otherwise known as lapping.

Last edited by SDHNTR; 07/25/23.
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I doubt I had LW's on much more than 40 rifles. Mainstays of course Puked first,due round count. The latest Puke was a rifle I loaned to a pard 10yrs or so ago and he just returned it. Went to shoot a zero and PUKE. Hint.

Taping tubes and screw grease is fhuqking HILARIOUS! Where/how do you CLUELESS Drooling Fhuqktards dream this schit up?!? Hint.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

All 1" tubes,no Boomers and only (1) long action (280). Hint......................


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Have never heard of Burris XTR bases and Signature Zee rings failing. No lapping required, or desired.

[Linked Image from media.mwstatic.com]

[Linked Image from media.mwstatic.com]


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Originally Posted by mathman
Why not put on the Picatinny base it came with and use any number of good rings?

I don’t have a RAR, but my Fieldcraft and my Howa Minis, when used with a rail gave me poor cheek weld. The Talley lows are perfect in that respect, and the very low Warne bases very good too. I have 1” and 30mm Talleys for the FC, and if they ever crap I’ll be back to the rail since mounts for those are currently a dead end. If the alleged new owners ever get them back in production, maybe some new choices will appear.

Someone with a differently shaped face may do better with a rail combo, I suppose…..


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Never heard of 'em. Hint.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

Just sayin'.....................


Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
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I hated to see this post. I just ordered a set of the Talley LW to go on the wife's new Weatherby Vanguard Camilla in 308 today. I guess time will tell. Thanks Daniel








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Originally Posted by gunzo
If they are 6061 aluminum as claimed they must be investment cast. The grain structure appears to be very coarse, & normally seen in very cheap parts.

They're not cast....they are extruded. -Al


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Originally Posted by JimH
Originally Posted by Big Stick
I've only puked (9) sets of LW's thus far. Hint. Slow learner?

2wks ago. Hint.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

They are obviously an easy pass,if you actually shoot. Hint................

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