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JamesJr Offline OP
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Anybody ever used it? I've been told it'll work.

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Yep used it many times. You need to use the case lube not the dry lube.


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Just used some yesterday for a small bedding job.


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it doesn't work on the 20 mil pipe tape if you're doing the barrel channel. I broke a stock trying to get it apart after using One Shot.

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Neutral shoe polish. Several layers with buffing in between.

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Originally Posted by JamesJr
Anybody ever used it? I've been told it'll work.

If you read the ingredients, you'll understand why it shouldn't be used as a release agent for bedding.

There's more to an appropriate release agent than just something that epoxy won't stick to..................

Good shootin' -Al


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I've always used PAM. We used to mold fiberglass replacement parts and used PAM as a release agent.


After the first shot the rest are just noise.

Make mine a Minaska

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Just dip your finger into some skin moisterizer or get a little bit of oil off a dipstick.

Either of those will contaminate the bedding compound at least as well as case lube or a can of cooking spray.


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While those things might work, wax works so well, I can't see the point. I have used silicone based mold release sprays, but I still like wax better. GD

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JamesJr Offline OP
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Did the rifle, and used Kiwi shoe polish as well as some of the One Shot in a place or two. Both worked. If I do another one, I'll probably just use the Kiwi, but the One Shot did work. Before I bedded the rifle, I mixed up some JB Weld and stuck an old screw that I'd sprayed with the One Shot in it for 24 hours. Since it did not stick, I wasn't concerned about using it as a release agent.

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Partall mold release.

It's made for exactly that.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


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Originally Posted by Feral_American
Partall mold release.

It's made for exactly that.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

That's the exact product I use. smile -Al


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Originally Posted by Al_Nyhus
Originally Posted by Feral_American
Partall mold release.

It's made for exactly that.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

That's the exact product I use. smile -Al

Good stuff isn't it.

I use it for bedding, I use it for releasing synthetic stocks from the mold. Hell, it even works very well as a rust prevention on blued steel. One of those tins will last a lifetime.


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I've used Johnson paste wax on dozens of bedding jobs.

Never had an issue, always get good results.

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Why not just use Brownell's release agent?

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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
Why not just use Brownell's release agent?

PVA?

In my opinion 1) does not go on smoothly, and dries too fast to "fix" anything. 2) goes on too thick, especially when applying an "insurance" coat, and 3) it is easily galled when setting the metal into the stock leaving a spot unprotected and potentially stuck. I hate the stuff.

When using a wax, 15 coats rubbed back will not only guarantee protection against sticking, but will never build up and compromise that perfect marriage of stock to metal I'm looking for. Of course 2 coats of wax is all you need.


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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
Why not just use Brownell's release agent?

The blue poly vinyl release agent has a thickness to it that prevents a perfect fit of reciever to bedfing. -Al


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There’s nothing wrong with using Hornady one shot case lube as a release agent. It is sprayed on and then allowed to dry. Furthermore, those that don’t know post the elements involved create a chemical contaminant, which is untrue. This is because it is dry at that point when you use it. It works exceptionally well when sprayed into hard to reach areas. Don’t trust the stupid fu cks that rely on taping everything. We’ve seen those bedding jobs. That’s amateurs work at best.


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I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
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You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
It works exceptionally well when sprayed into hard to reach areas. Don’t trust the stupid fu cks that rely on taping everything. We’ve seen those bedding jobs. That’s amateurs work at best.

That's a true statement, it does work well to spray into "hard to reach areas".

The problem is, "hard to reach areas" very often create mechanical locks that trash a bedding job. We've all seen those bedding jobs, amateur at best and at worst. Those hard to reach areas should be filled with clay or kids playdough first to eliminate them from the equation. Any pro out there knows this, amateurs don't.


I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
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Originally Posted by Feral_American
The problem is, "hard to reach areas" very often create mechanical locks that trash a bedding job. We've all seen those bedding jobs, amateur at best and at worst. Those hard to reach areas should be filled with clay or kids playdough first to eliminate them from the equation. Any pro out there knows this, amateurs don't.

Yep..the best way to get out of trouble is to never get into trouble to start with. wink Play Doh is my go-to for filling holes, slots...anything potentially troublesome. It's easier to remove than modeling clay, too.

There's a can of Sherfab's excellent 225 non silicone aerosol mold release agent on the shelf here...though I can't remember the last time I've needed to use it.

As you mentioned, Partall is an excellent rust preventative. On blued receivers on hunting rigs, I warm the receiver with a heat gun and then brush it on with a soldering brush. After it cools, it's buffed and warmed up again. Works great for protection...especially on rough matte finished actions like 700's.

Good shootin' smile -Al


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