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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 58,550 Likes: 9
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 58,550 Likes: 9 |
Fortunately for you gals,Imagination and Pretend are free,so even you Crying CLUELESS Kchunts can "afford" to "contribute". Hint. Pardon wares that exist,as you Fhuqktards Pretend aloud. Hint. ![[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]](https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1600x1200q70/924/ViDGLo.jpg) ![[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]](https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1600x1200q70/924/uYRPZc.jpg) ![[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]](https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1600x1200q70/922/a7na7T.jpg) Google as you MUST and nod pointy heads and crossed-eyes,like you "understand". Hint. Fhuqking LAUGHING!................
Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,964
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,964 |
Other than minimum of about 25-thousandths, there's no limit except for asthetics
AKA The P-Man  If you cherish your memories with kids, be a good role model . . . . so the RIGHT memories of you mean something to them.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,689
Campfire Regular
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OP
Campfire Regular
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,689 |
Other than minimum of about 25-thousandths, there's no limit except for asthetics That's about where I'm at. Gotta take it to the range and see how it shoots. Thanks, NYH1.
Take nothing I say personal, remember....it's just the interweb!
ROLLTIDE
YANKEE'S
new yorkistan SUCKS!
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 6,835
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 6,835 |
Don't know what the minimum is, but my 1965 M70 30/06 has a gap on both sides of the barrel big enough for a dirt dobber nest. But that must be "enough" because it drives tacks! 
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,689
Campfire Regular
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OP
Campfire Regular
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,689 |
Don't know what the minimum is, but my 1965 M70 30/06 has a gap on both sides of the barrel big enough for a dirt dobber nest. But that must be "enough" because it drives tacks! Thanks! NYH1.
Take nothing I say personal, remember....it's just the interweb!
ROLLTIDE
YANKEE'S
new yorkistan SUCKS!
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,131
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,131 |
It simply depends upon the integrity of the stock,how it's bedded and what it is made of. (5) layers of paper,makes less than zero fhuqks,regarding all of those things. Hint.
All that pillar bedding does,is stop stock compression,betwixt the receiver and fasteners. There's instances where the approach nips much and makes great gains,while it can often be moot in a good handle. Done right,it can never hurt the equation. Hint.
I'll go out on limb and assume a Remington Classic of Living Wood is the subject and that's where ALL bets are off,if you actually shoot or go Outdoors. The reason(s) being,Living Wood is never not moving,unless careful mitigation is incorporated. For me on all of my OEM Big Green Living Wood Classics,they were bedded from tang to fore end,to preclude movement. It was often a multi stage operation,because I'm a Notorious Lug Catcher,especially on L/A's. Once that is controlled,I simply let the rifle tell me what it wants,whether FL,Floated or Positive Pressure. Once established,then I do that which is requisite,to lock same in. Hint.
I'm ALWAYS going to bed the barrel channel,solely as a means of getting Living Wood to be predictable. When I float,I fhuqking float and with a fully sealed channel. The clearance requisite,to preclude ANY possibility of how the rifle is rested or slung. There's nothing worse than No Man's Land,where sometimes you're good and other times not,due a thing called "weather". Hell...I want way more than 5 fhuqking pieces of paper,because I actually shoot and go Outdoors. One needs to work with the stock,not against it. Hint.
Fhuqking LAUGHING!............... As the vernacular would suggest.................................This advice don't suck.
If you find yourself in a hole....quit digging
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 4,418
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 4,418 |
It simply depends upon the integrity of the stock,how it's bedded and what it is made of. (5) layers of paper,makes less than zero fhuqks,regarding all of those things. Hint.
All that pillar bedding does,is stop stock compression,betwixt the receiver and fasteners. There's instances where the approach nips much and makes great gains,while it can often be moot in a good handle. Done right,it can never hurt the equation. Hint.
I'll go out on limb and assume a Remington Classic of Living Wood is the subject and that's where ALL bets are off,if you actually shoot or go Outdoors. The reason(s) being,Living Wood is never not moving,unless careful mitigation is incorporated. For me on all of my OEM Big Green Living Wood Classics,they were bedded from tang to fore end,to preclude movement. It was often a multi stage operation,because I'm a Notorious Lug Catcher,especially on L/A's. Once that is controlled,I simply let the rifle tell me what it wants,whether FL,Floated or Positive Pressure. Once established,then I do that which is requisite,to lock same in. Hint.
I'm ALWAYS going to bed the barrel channel,solely as a means of getting Living Wood to be predictable. When I float,I fhuqking float and with a fully sealed channel. The clearance requisite,to preclude ANY possibility of how the rifle is rested or slung. There's nothing worse than No Man's Land,where sometimes you're good and other times not,due a thing called "weather". Hell...I want way more than 5 fhuqking pieces of paper,because I actually shoot and go Outdoors. One needs to work with the stock,not against it. Hint.
Fhuqking LAUGHING!............... This mostly covers it. A few other things. For wood stocks decide whether the rifle needs to be floated, neutral or have pressure and bed the lug and tang and then: 1.) make sure the rifle has a good finish and linseed or truoil is not that, though the factory Remington finish is generally good; 2.) go to Home Depot or your local hardware store and buy a long screw driver; 3.) cut the handle off the screw driver and leave a length of round, steel rod to go from just in front of the recoil lug to an inch or two from the end of the forend tip; 4.) using a Dremel (carefully) cut a groove in the forend in which the cut screw driver will lie below the surface of the wood; 5.) bed the screw driver into the forend; 6). once finished or floated or whatever, soak under your recoil pad, barrel channel and inside of the stock with spar urethane. I live in a fairly dry climate and almost always have seen floated wood stocks move unless reinforced as above. With the screw driver in the forend, I've yet to see one move much and the stock is much stiffer, which requires less clearance. I've also done the above with carbon arrows and all-thread, but like screw drivers better.
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Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 145
Campfire Member
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Campfire Member
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 145 |
After shoulder replacement surgery I'm hunting my Sako Forester in .243. It is free floated 2 thickness of post it note paper. As thin as that stock is at the sides of the barrel I will not be hogging it out to a 32nd or 16th of an inch. I will check it a few days before deer season and fix it if it is not still free. It's a late 60's early 70's rifle and I have never hunted it. Worked up a load with 100gr Hornady BTSP at .75 in and put it away. The rod in the for end of the stock is an option to be considered. If all else fails I will break out the 6.5 Grendel AR.
Have a great day.
Jim
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