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I'm considering getting my son's each a flintlock for Christmas. I saw Traditions offers a package deal but I'm leery of that. Is it any good?

I also considered getting a better Traditions flintlock but they're about $250 more than the package. Once you get all the accessories for each it's gonna be big bill. That said, I don't want to buy junk.

Traditions flintlocks are junk. There are no good flintlocks in that price range. Consider percussion rifles, even the cheap ones will work.

He’s in PA, which has a late, flintlock-only season. That probably ‘splains his idea. I’m not sure there’s an answer to his problem unless he can locate a couple of good used TCs, hard to do in his area. They ain’t great, but from what I hear they generally work.

Save your money, buy a good used gun from Track of the Wolf by a builder using a quality lock. The lock is the heart and soul. Lyman's are piss poor, TC only a little better. Siler lock is a name to look for. Ask Steve Szhin right here on the fire.
I understand economy, but there are no shortcuts in the flintlock world. A quality used gun, cared for, will be passed down in your family for generations.
Another edit, just about any of the various Pedersoli models are superb guns well made, of the finest materials. And don't get carried away buying "stuff' for the boys...with the exception of a bullet mold...everything can be made in a home shop with simple tools...get the boys into it.

If you are considering buying a used flinter, the quality of the frizzen/fence is as important as the barrel quality. You want a frizzen made of properly-hardened, high-carbon steel. Yocalan determine a fence's/frizzen's steel quality (carbon level) by dry firing it with a flint. A "good" frizzen will create short, white-hot, highly-branched sparks, which shower the pan for good primer pan powder ignition. A "bad" frizzen will generate long, lower temp yellow, straight sparks. 1,2 or 3 hammer/flint strikes will reveal the frizzen quality.

It goes with writing this, that the rifle is pointed in a safe direction, is not loaded with powder, nor is the pan primed with powder. If the owner has an issue with YOU doing it, have him/her do it and just observe the sparks. This test works best in darker conditions (at least in the shade).

There used to be aftermarket replacement frizzens made of high carbon steel for Lyman and T/C flinters. I THINK the outfit was called Golden Valley (?) Arms, in Ohio(?). I bought two of these frizzens for my T/C Has men back 25++ years ago. Big improvement (that, and a .50 cal Green Mountain drop in flint barrel). Maybe you can track one down. Also, the Green Mountain drop in flinter barrel assembly was a great way to upgrade A T/C Has men or Renegade. They show up on eBay now and then.

L&R Lock company used to offer a full T/C flintlock action replacement (another option to upgrade a "stock" T/C flinte). Maybe still available, or eBay up a used one. Excellent actions.

A good frizzen makes a huge difference for performance. You want white-hot , short, highly-branched sparks.

Thanks for the replies. I figured the package wasn’t worth it but thought I’d ask.

Yes, PA requires flintlock during late ML.

I have a 30 year old Lyman Trade that works great but haven’t followed ML in years. Sounds like I need to look for used TC and Lyman and go from there.

Your Lyman trade rifle may be 100% adequate. Is it a flinter? If so, what sparks characteristics does the frozen produce? Lyman frizzens used to be pretty good sparkers.

Here is an interesting thread for you:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/tc-hawken-frizzen-replacement.98681/

Try to find a high carbon replacement frizzen. Another option is to find gunsmith can put a high carbon "sole" (face) on the face of the frizzen to allow white hot, branched sparks. Maybe track of the wolf can do it, or can provide the name of a gunsmith who can do it.

Or, get a new/used L&R/RPL flintlock action for Lyman rifles. (T/C Hawken action also available).
https://lr-rpl.com/product/rpl-lyman-investarms-flintlock-parts-05/

Yes it’s a flinter. Sparks good with little/no hang.
Almost as fast as my TC Renegade cap lock.

I’ll look for used for the boys.

My only FL was a Pedersoli Mortimer, a fine rifle, but it needed a bit of tweaking of the flashhole to make it reliable. I drilled it out to .0625, then coned the backside to bring the main charge closer to the pan, both mods recommended by Ross Seyfried who also had the same rifle. Once tweaked, it was very fast, and as reliable as my capguns.

Nowadays they run about 5x what I paid, but if you have the coin, they are absolutely worth it.

Incidentally, Ross also wrote about a TC .54 Hawken he used to kill a moose. In typical Seyfried style, he said everything about the TC was wrong, especially the short stroke of the flint against the frizzen, but it worked, and killed his moose, IIRC with a Maxi Ball.

my TC Hawken needed the frizzen treated and the geometry changed via heating and bending. now it is one of the surest firing flintlocks i have.
many people are afraid of working on the frizzen. i purchased a replacement from RMC/Ox Yoke just to have on hand. it is still in the drawer.

My son-in-law and his Dad both hunt in Sullivan County with Traditions 50 caliber flintlock rifles. Their hardwood stocks have cracked at the same place. That is at the rear of the steel to wood joint. Repairs consisted of drilling a tiny hole at the end of the crack and working Liquid Nail into the crack from top and bottom sides. No further cracking after several years of use after the repair(s). Accuracy with patched round balls is about normal - 4 inch grouping at 75 yards. Hoping this is helpful. Sherwood

Who worked on it?

I've been tempted to stick my frizzen and cock in the forge and have at it,
but don't trust myself. They are cast, and the metallurgy might spoil things before
I could.

sorry Dillonbuck, have been down for a week. I did the work on the Frizzen. it really isn't hard if you are at all handy with stuff. that said i should also say i build guns almost full time now in my old age.
the TC frizzen many times doesn't need hardened at all. many times it just needs the flint adjusted to fit the frizzen .

Mine sucks.

There is no way to adjust it to avoid the flint chopping into the frizzen.
Flint life is 3-5 reliable shots. 10 isn't possible before it's junk.

Was talking to a man this weekend who makes locks for a major
player in the custom game. He gave me a few tips, some new.
And got me to thinking about trying a wedge in the jaws to change flint angle.

I've looked at the L&R locks for a TC, but their reputation isn't great.
Hate to put $200 lock on a cheap gun, then not be happy.

I ended up putting a slight curve into the frizzen on my TC. also heated and closed the throat on the cock slightly.
while i had the frizzen red i added some casinite (spelling?) or whatever it is that TOTW sells. actually did two treatments. now i get close to 70 shots with the flint and it sparks close to the best lock i have which is a round face colonial Kibler.
i have a friend that tweaked a cock without heating it but just the thought of that gives me nightmares.

Several years ago, I won a Traditions Pa. Pellet Flintlock. It’s designed to use up to 150 grains of pellets. I use 80 grains of Pyrodex RS in the barrel and 4f BP in the pan. I haven’t tweaked anything and have had no problems. Even at 15* it’s gone off. I wouldn’t be afraid to own another one

Dale

Concerning the soft or worn out frizzen problem, I bought a used TC Hawken from a fellow that worked in machine shop. He had shaped and weld tacked a very thin piece of high carbon sheet steel to the face of the frizzen. I get intense spark every time.

yeah traditions flintlocks are junk.....




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