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jndd Offline OP
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What bases are correct for a 1917 Enfield Military action, I would like to use Leupold or Redfield STD. bases if possible as I have Leupold std. rings. Also I would like some information on using pre fit barrels.
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The bases are going to be determined by how the action has been trimmed of its ears. The ones I built on were milled and drilled to use Rem 700 bases. There was a base made to work on an unaltered action, but I don't know that they are still available.
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Last edited by Blackfly1; 09/27/23.

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Those are not standard bases, since they were a military rifle. They were not drilled and tapped from the factory. Extensive work has to be done to the rear bridge of the receiver as well. I have one that has weaver #32 and #33 bases, but that is just that rifle. Others may be different. I've seen some take (#11 and #11), and (#46 and $47) . As for using Leupold std bases and rings, I'd use weaver or steel warne bases and Burris Zee rings instead. They are simple, stronger and look better. IMHO:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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The notation that if you have a yet original barreled action and especially wood in decent unaltered shape, perhaps to consider selling it! There was an entire era of folks unloading - as in parting - with customized P17 based rifles from the seventies onward as they no longer fit the "in thing" profile of lightweight sporters. They're out there and often at a fraction of embarking on the road of 1917 sporterization from scratch will cost! If you're set on 'doing the deed', the front receiver ring should fit the same specs as the Remington Model 30. The well noted above wild card as the aft bridge configuration. Both in terms of sporterization modifications AND if a Winchester the large factory divot which may upend a planned aft mount securing screw hole location!



Once the '17 action is non-original, sight ears retained are a non-sequitur (little sense) beyond construing 'bit weird' truck gun with one notable exception.

Yet all said, the exception as proving the rule. "Long, heavy mag chamberings." Such where the big rugged '17 action excels! Even the pot belly magazine design may be useful in stowing an additional round.

Just my take!
Good Luck & Best!
John

Last edited by iskra; 09/28/23.
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Originally Posted by iskra
The notation that if you have a yet original barreled action and especially wood in decent unaltered shape, perhaps to consider selling it! There was an entire era of folks unloading - as in parting - with customized P17 based rifles from the seventies onward as they no longer fit the "in thing" profile of lightweight sporters. They're out there and often at a fraction of embarking on the road of 1917 sporterization from scratch will cost! If you're set on 'doing the deed', the front receiver ring should fit the same specs as the Remington Model 30. The well noted above wild card as the aft bridge configuration. Both in terms of sporterization modifications AND if a Winchester the large factory divot which may upend a planned aft securing screw hole location!

Once the '17 action is non-original, sight ears retained are a non-sequitur (little sense) beyond construing 'bit weird' truck gun.

Just my take!
Good Luck & Best!
John

John, there is no such thing as a "P17". Of most people here, you should know this.

My best suggestion is to take the rifle in quesiton to a smith and let him test fit some bases, to see what it needs exactly. I'm assuming it is drilled and tapped for scope mounts. The reason he is asking which ones it takes. With these rifles, nothing is set in stone. Even though some smiths milled them down to accept Rem 700, Rem 720 bases. Some milled these receivers to accept model 70 type bases, and then you had the BSA's (such as one of my rifles), that takes the aformentioned 32 and 33 (weaver mount). Then you had ham handed tinkerer's putting just about anything else on top of the receivers. I've seen a lot of crap when it comes to these rifles.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Picky, picky...there may have not have been an official designation...but I bet you'd like to have a dollar for every time you've heard Pattern 14, Pattern 17 or seen it on old scope mount charts and Bishop and Fajen catalogs.


Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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Originally Posted by flintlocke
Picky, picky...there may have not have been an official designation...but I bet you'd like to have a dollar for every time you've heard Pattern 14, Pattern 17 or seen it on old scope mount charts and Bishop and Fajen catalogs.

I believe in keeping this schidt real flinlocke. The op needs some help. He is probably not like most of us here with a stockpiile of scope bases. If I had it in hand, I could figure out what it needed pretty quickly. Again, the best option may be to take it to a smith. A good one will have a chit ton of bases at his disposal and probably know what numbers it could be off the top of his head.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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What he really needs is some nice guy to cut a business card to the rear bridge profile radius of a Model 30, and find a friend with a mill. If he wants to go with as close to standard as possible...Weaver 11/11 was on the M30. He will never find a prefit bbl...contoured blank is as close as he will get. IMO the Remington and Eddystone barrels were superb barrels accuracy wise....I never owned a Win.

Last edited by flintlocke; 09/28/23.

Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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flintlocke, would a Call Girl business card do, as perhaps "getting there" half the fun? smile smile smile

Matter of fact why not just buy the Model 30 & shop for factory spec mounts? Spare the expense of the girl, the divorce and the Model '17 stuff!
Just my silly take! smile
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BOOK the hunt of a lifetime at Sheri's Ranch now!


Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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I had the same issue JNDD I couldn’t find a leupold base to fit my 1917, so I had some different spares on hand particularly a FN Mauser 2 piece base. I milled down the back base so it would fit level on my receiver. My receiver doesn’t have a nice round contour on the back like the 30 express. Whoever owned it before me trimmed the ears off flat, it’s not the prettiest but it works for an abomination.

Last edited by Whiteghost109; 09/28/23.
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Thanks for the replies, what are your opinions on the criterion pre fit barrels.
Thanks
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I agree with BSA about the Weaver bases. Have Weaver base and rings on my 1917, and a 6x Leupold. That setup works great.

Re the Criterion pre-fit barrels... I haven't tried one, but have heard good things about them.

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A buddy of mine had a modified 17 with a junk scope on it. He bit the bullet and bought a new leupold 3.5 x10 for it. The gun had been d&t for weaver bases, he asked me if I would mount the scope for him and sight in. After pulling the old scope and rings off the bases didn't appear to level. A straight edge from frt to rear showed the rear base below level and slightly tipped. I removed the front base and degreased it and screws reinstalling with blue loctite. I then removed the rear base and cleaned it and screws, putting the base back down I put a strip of tape all around the base. I then removed the base. I put release agent from an Acraglss kit on the screws. Mixed up a small batch of epoxy steel and placed it on the receiver where the base would sit, I carefully place the base over the top and started both screws about 2 turns each. Then took the scope with the frt ring attached to the front base and tightened it down. I took the clamp screw out of the rear ring and loosely installed the ring on the scope sliding it over the base, slid the clamp screw in position and tightened it up, it pulled the scope base into position I tightened ring to it's lower half. I waited about an hr for the epoxy steel to set up enough to remove the excess along the sides of the base. I gave it a couple of days and loosened the clamp screws pulling off the scope. The epoxy steel setup fine, I pulled the tape off to remove any of the epoxy that ended up on the receiver. I tightened down both base screws.. I took a magic marker and that Grey epoxy got turned to black. I reinstalled the scope and bore sighted it. Went out and burned a couple of boxes thru it. Ended up Glass bedding the action and relieving the barrel channel but it came around and shot fine. That was over 25 years ago and he still kills his deer with it. The thing is depending how carried away they got removing the rear sight ears you may not get any base to fit perfectly..that simple..mb

Last edited by Magnum_Bob; 10/08/23.

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