Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Express Rifles and Big Bores Only Need a Ruger hawkeye stock please (416ruger)

Cracked a second walnut stock. Same place: right at the crossbolt. Wasn't sure if it was a hairline crack or a finish scratch. Touched off one more round and blammo, it became a two piece stock. Weird deal, I had wood splinters in my hair and my right nostril. It hurt my feelings, I am sad.

This replacement stock went 41 rounds of old dgx factory ammo, shot offhand.


Need a synthetic stock if anyone has one to spare.

I may have a Hogue and I for sure have an HS that should be stout enough (aluminum bedding block).

If you shoot me a text at 406-231-1545 I can get you some pics tomorrow.

Bummer on the wood stock.

I will give you a Hogue stock that came off the first batch of .416 Ruger Alaskans.
It ain't much but it is free to a good home where I know it might someday serve as a chew toy for such wonderful dogs.
Can't part with my boat paddles.
I will understand if you refuse my Hogue. PM if interested.
You should also consider the B&C Medalist, last stock you will ever need on the .416 Ruger Hawkeye/Mk II.

Dang, thanks guys. Med, I sent you a message on that hs stock.

This has got me thinking - will a B&C stock fit a non-MKII Ruger 77? The tang safety models? I have a beautiful piece of wood on my 458 that I surely wouldn't want to bust!

It would require an extensive bit of destruction (to fit the barrel and recoil plate lug in the forend for a .458 WinMag)
and reconstruction with J-B Weld and maybe other structural elements,
then a paint job.
Not recommended unless you have a lot of glass bedding experience and spare time on your hands.

Best thing you could do is make sure the current walnut is soundly bedded,
add a second crossbolt (hidden or exposed) through in the web between the magazine well and trigger well,
maybe another hidden crossbolt in the forearm,
but most importantly, remove the grip cap, drill a deep hole, and install a 1/4" to 3/8" diameter rod of steel allthread
embedded in epoxy. Reach it from grip cap to rear action pillar.
Get pillars in the stock, fore and aft on action.
They can be ordered from Brownells for the Ruger front action screw angle.
Or can be harvested from a Hogue stock, heh, heh.
Proper tang relief at rear of action, of course.

The axial grip rod would have prevented the problem MainerinAK had.

The grain doesn't matter. It's all bout the "texture"......

The Ruger Express rifles had an additional lug to prevent splitting had a xtra stock for a while that I sold. Was the stock bedded? I bed all my Rugers, but have nothing larger than the 375 Ruger. The angled front lug breaks a lot stocks. If stock moves in bedding its going to break.

Original CZ 550 Magnum "fancy" stock had wrong texture:





CZ USA replaced it for free at my request, with a "Kevlar" synthetic, full bedding block
extending through grip and forearm,
after I had paid a gunsmith to do everything but the grip allthread.
Live and learn.



They were selling those "Kevlar" stocks for $200 more than the same stock from B&C cost, next time I paid for one myself.
That was a first batch 404 Jeffery and 505 Gibbs set.
CZ learned to crossbolt and do better bedding eventually.
Maybe too late. They left the "real rifle" business.
Sad times we live in.

That sucks. Do you know what the action screws were torqued to? Good on you fellows who are willing to help Mainer out.

The 77 MK II and Hawkeyes are great rifles for rough use in rough country but.......I found out the hard way with my .358 the front screw on a 77 needs torqued to 95 in lbs, which is much more than any other rifle out there. It sure would be nice if Ruger would put such helpful information in the manual. When you add up the rigamarole needed to get replacement stuff when living even half-way remote this stuff gets to be a real pain. Some of us count on rifles in some rough country and put more than a couple weekends of use into these guns per year. All my using guns need a disassembly at least once a year just to get all the crud and detritius out, and I'm generally pretty retentive about their care.

My .358 split shooting 250s. My kid bought a used .416 Taylor MK II which hadn't been reassembled properly, and it split on the first firing with 400s. So any 77 chambered in a round with more than a smidge of recoil should have the front screw action torque confirmed. The rear screw is less critical, like 45-50ish seems good. The .416 got a new plastic stock and is smashing rainforest blacktails. The .358 is getting a new stock hewn out of english walnut that's just about done.

On the other hand, my plastic stocked 77 custom 6mm SPC shot like crap with the proper torque. It likes things around 50/25 in lbs for the front and rear but between the very low recoil and plastic stock, there have been no issues.

No action screw torque issues. End grain run-out near the thinnest part of the stock: rear of mag box.

Walnut with the density of fkn balsa wood, that 416 recoil in a 7 lb 6oz rifle finds the weakest link.

If I went wood again, I would fiberglass the inside area of the mag, wetting out thin cloth with a flexible epoxy (thinned with stove alchohol) that would penetrate the grain.

Does anyone understand how thin a wood stock is at the rear of the mag box? Everybody understand end grain run out?

As somebody who builds wooden freight sleds and freight canoes with lot of wood, end grain run-out is a big deal that some other companies don't fkn understand.

I was carrying a clipper canoe by the yoke. The white ash yoke SNAPPPED over my neck. My neck got cut, and the canoe came crashing onto my head. The grain ran-out, rather than following straight through the yoke.

Pillars and Rods and cross bolts and rubber duckys and alphabet soup won't do a thing, if grain runs out in any of the critical areas of the wood stock.

Thanks for putting up with me everyone! And thanks med & crank for offering to help me out!

Mainer:

I too have a Hogue stock takeoff, happy to send it to ya if the other offers don't pan out. Just PM me.

Thanks guys, as fast as a bolt of lightning, medriver struck a Montana post office with a boxed up HS.

Thanks again medriver. The action dropped right in. The mag box has no tension on it, about a 1/32" of free play both at the front and rear of mag box.

Whole different gun. Went from 8lbs 6 oz scoped, to 9 lbs even. Way easier to shoot, as the recoil is nothing like it used to be.

Sweet.
A little dab of glass bedding in the primary recoil lug recess
may or may not be necessary.
Sometimes as a drop-in they bed themselves in the aluminum after a few shots and do fine.
You will not break that stock.
If it were mine I would get out my J-B Weld and mix up a speck of it for a one-dab bedding job.

thanks, yep the aluminum in my cz 550 B&C stock took a "set" after firing years of full power 9.3x62 300 grain swift loads. 6061 aluminum bedding block.


the 7075 aluminum in the hs, might be better for the extra recoil: 100 more grains of bullet and at least 20 more grains of gunpowder.