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KFWA Offline OP
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was turning over and started when I parked it, let it set for 10 months under a cover and now the starter can't turn it over.

kinda bummed about it, was going to start restoring it this week.

Now I'm pulling the plugs and letting M.M.O. soak the cylinders.

might just go ahead and convert it to 12V. I was grounding to the frame and going straight to the starter to jump it with a 12V battery.

oh well, its something to do.

Last edited by KFWA; 10/22/23.

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I doubt it's the motor actually locked up. I would be looking at the starter / solenoid system.

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You may can you get a socket, (six point is preferable) to the balancer and very gently break the engine loose. I would be leery of getting it freed up with the starter. Potential to break the stuck ring is there, if indeed it is stuck. Good luck with it.

Last edited by Featherweight6555; 10/22/23.

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Jack up the tractor put the transmission in neutral and engage the PTO. Use a pipe wrench to turn the PTO shaft being careful not to damage the shaft splines. This should rotate the engine. Observe the direction of the engine as it should rotate clockwise if you are standing in front of the tractor. Others may offer a better solution. Also a mixture of acetone and transmission squirted down the spark plugs holes will help free it up


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You were going to restore it anyway. It is a sleeved engine. There is nothing wrong in there that a set of pistons, rings, and sleeves will not fix.

The 8N was built from '47 to '52. Your 70 plus year old tractor will have a brand spanking new engine.

A word of warning on head bolt torque. The top of the block is pretty thin, and the cast is fairly soft. It is easy to strip the threads in the block. You will need a machine shop to set the valve seats. Other than that, the complete engine rebuild is easily done by any amateur in his garage.

Parts source:https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/userposts/id/65925/view/posts/page/1


ER Kit:Https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/store/model_parts.cgi?SearchArea=Ford&&md=8N&cat=Engine Overhaul Kits&r=mcats
$200 to $500 depending on what you need.

I used the thin wall sleeves for increased HP.

I did have to have a pin machined for the front axle to rotate on as there was excessive slop on the axle. And unless you do an in frame rebuild, you will want to buy a new clutch disc and pressure plate. Perhaps have the flywheel turned.


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KFWA Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Irving_D
Jack up the tractor put the transmission in neutral and engage the PTO. Use a pipe wrench to turn the PTO shaft being careful not to damage the shaft splines. This should rotate the engine. Observe the direction of the engine as it should rotate clockwise if you are standing in front of the tractor. Others may offer a better solution. Also a mixture of acetone and transmission squirted down the spark plugs holes will help free it up


that's an idea, might have to do that next weekend


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KFWA Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Idaho_Shooter
You were going to restore it anyway. It is a sleeved engine. There is nothing wrong in there that a set of pistons, rings, and sleeves will not fix.

The 8N was built from '47 to '52. Your 70 plus year old tractor will have a brand spanking new engine.

A word of warning on head bolt torque. The top of the block is pretty thin, and the cast is fairly soft. It is easy to strip the threads in the block. You will need a machine shop to set the valve seats. Other than that, the complete engine rebuild is easily done by any amateur in his garage.

Parts source:https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/userposts/id/65925/view/posts/page/1


ER Kit:Https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/store/model_parts.cgi?SearchArea=Ford&&md=8N&cat=Engine Overhaul Kits&r=mcats
$200 to $500 depending on what you need.

I used the thin wall sleeves for increased HP.

I did have to have a pin machined for the front axle to rotate on as there was excessive slop on the axle. And unless you do an in frame rebuild, you will want to buy a new clutch disc and pressure plate. Perhaps have the flywheel turned.

thanks for the link, I'll dive into it later.


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Originally Posted by ldholton
I doubt it's the motor actually locked up. I would be looking at the starter / solenoid system.

I didn't think it would be - I haven't taken the starter off yet but I was going straight to the starter bypassing the solenoid. It would make a noise like it was trying to engage. Then I started reading about these guys who had them lock up after sitting awhile - admittedly not for 10 months, usually in terms of years.

I don't have time to mess with it now, I just went out to bump to check the battery and then that led me down the rabbit hole. I'll let M.M.O do its job for a few days.

I'll put the starter next weekend. I checked online and damn, those thing are $117 a pop for the cheap chinese crap

Last edited by KFWA; 10/22/23.

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Originally Posted by ldholton
I doubt it's the motor actually locked up. I would be looking at the starter / solenoid system.
He’s a fugking moron


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Another note Regards 12 volt. If your engine has a front mounted distributor, 12 V coils are available. 12V will periodically burn out a 6V coil. BTDT

If the engine has the later side mounted distributor, 12 V auto coils serve well. When we actually converted mine to a 12V alternator, we put a blank plate over the top of the front mounted distributor and mounted a remote coil just like the later side distributor models use. Also, electronic ignition is now available for retrofit.

Last edited by Idaho_Shooter; 10/22/23.

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There's a lot better products for getting thinks unstuck (if that's what's wrong) like SEAFOAM DEEP CREEP. MMO is just naptha that smells like wintergreen. Check out Vice Grip Garage on YouTube. He's made a good living getting stuck engines unstuck and the diving them 100's of miles. He knows all the tricks.


Last edited by victoro; 10/22/23.
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KFWA Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Idaho_Shooter
Another note Regards 12 volt. If your engine has a front mounted distributor, 12 V coils are available. 12V will periodically burn out a 6V coil. BTDT

If the engine has the later side mounted distributor, 12 V auto coils serve well. When we actually converted mine to a 12V alternator, we put a blank plate over the front of the front mounted distributor and mounted a remote coil just like the later side distributor models use. Also, electronic ignition is now available for retrofit.

mine is an earlier model with the front. The previous owner converted to electronic ignition though


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Originally Posted by KFWA
Originally Posted by Irving_D
Jack up the tractor put the transmission in neutral and engage the PTO. Use a pipe wrench to turn the PTO shaft being careful not to damage the shaft splines. This should rotate the engine. Observe the direction of the engine as it should rotate clockwise if you are standing in front of the tractor. Others may offer a better solution. Also a mixture of acetone and transmission squirted down the spark plugs holes will help free it up


that's an idea, might have to do that next weekend


Just a thought. Jack up ONE rear wheel. Block the other, and firmly set the brake on the blocked side.

You will get more torque by manually turning the lifted rear tire than you could ever get from a pipe wrench on the PTO shaft. And you will not scar the PTO.


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Sell for parts or scrap, buy a decent small tractor.

Last edited by 10gaugemag; 10/22/23.

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KFWA Offline OP
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I'll go back and revisit this thread next weekend, then get into it.


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Originally Posted by KFWA
Originally Posted by Idaho_Shooter
Another note Regards 12 volt. If your engine has a front mounted distributor, 12 V coils are available. 12V will periodically burn out a 6V coil. BTDT

If the engine has the later side mounted distributor, 12 V auto coils serve well. When we actually converted mine to a 12V alternator, we put a blank plate over the front of the front mounted distributor and mounted a remote coil just like the later side distributor models use. Also, electronic ignition is now available for retrofit.

mine is an earlier model with the front. The previous owner converted to electronic ignition though
On my 49, that front axle pin was so worn, that when crossing an irrigation ditch or other rough terrain, the axle would rise enough to impact the distributor cap and break the lower left lobe. Then that plug wire would jump spark and the engine would miss until a new distributor cap was installed. A real PIA. But to be expected from a tractor which had spent sixty years actually working and farming.


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KFWA Offline OP
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Originally Posted by 10gaugemag
Sell for parts or scrap, buy a decent small tractor.


This is just a restoration hobby, the most I need a tractor for would be to blade the driveway in winter and that's overkill

I was wanting to fix it up, maybe teach myself a few things about it and sell it.


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I'm remembering ford jubilee we had when I was a kid being an 8-volt system... , been many years so I'm not positive..

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KFWA Offline OP
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yea, I've watched a bunch of her videos, very dedicated to the old fords, and they also have their kits and part numbers in the video. decent pricing too


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