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What factory ammo would you recommend for moose, understanding you might run into a brown bear?


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Chuck

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Trophy Bonded or Nosler Partitions

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Thanks 175g ?


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Chuck

"There's a saying in prize fighting, everyone's got a plan until they get hit"

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Thanks 175g ?


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Chuck

"There's a saying in prize fighting, everyone's got a plan until they get hit"

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Originally Posted by Bricktop
Then STFU. The rest of your statement is superflous bullshit with no real bearing on this discussion other than to massage your own ego.

Suckin' on my titties like you wanted me.
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Yes, 175s work great.

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Nice I'll have to reload. Perfect. I still reload for my 500 Jeffery and my two sons 270s, guess I'll have to buy some dies smile


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Chuck

"There's a saying in prize fighting, everyone's got a plan until they get hit"

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Have 30 some once-fired, nickel plated pieces of brass if you want them, colorado. Let me know via pm and I'll ship them to you.

I second the Swift a-frames Kaboku suggested. Use them with confidence...


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Thanks all!


Regards,

Chuck

"There's a saying in prize fighting, everyone's got a plan until they get hit"

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175 gr, your choice of flavors. Whatever shoots most goodestly would be my choice. Your choice premium or not - likely make little difference on a bear in the unlikely event (unless hunting them anyway) but I hear tell the Barnes product has less blood-shot" meat, if that is a consideration for moose. And is usually accurate, users brag.

Me, I tried some 120 TSX factory in my 260 for the worst group (6" or so) of any factory ammo tried. Seems it likes the 140 gr , most anything the best. I use C&C in most everything and never felt the difference.

$3.00+ per round, for you, looks like, for Barnes factory rolled. Spendy.


I've some brass,( and maybe dies), but no 7 mag rifle.

I'll check in a few and get back to you via pm.

Last edited by las; 11/13/23.

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As a guide for both and knowing more than a few others... Barnes bullets matter.

That said use what you want but PLEASE if I never see another ELD or Berger I'd be happy. Partitions work, but not nearly as good at penetration. 308 with ttsx has killed quicker with similar shots than 338 with partitions. Partitions never made it to the ribs on the other side.

Yup I'm biased. And there are cases of people not making old X bullets shoot but if you can't get a tsx or ttsx to shoot something else is really wrong IMHO. Dont have a gun other than the 458 thats not sub moa at 100 with barnes with very little work. Have a Buddys 338 win mag that puts 3 in the same large hole at 100 rather often... those that say barnes don't shoot... all wet.

FWIW seeing more than a few moose and bears tip over every year is where I form opinions from. Not from what I personally like.

And if you are worrying about the cost of ammo, you have other issues. Again my opinion. Have you priced a bear or moose hunt lately? Even DIY.

I just got back from a hunt where I had to crawl on my hands and knees and put a few more rounds in a bear at close range in a thicket. First and only round in the bear was an ELD.....


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I shoot 150g Partitions out of my 270 Win at 3000 fps, 300g A-Frames out of my 375 Weatherby and 570g TSX's out of my 500 Jeffery. All great bullets. I'm leaning towards either 160g or 175g A-Frames out of my 7mm Rem Magnum if I win the bid smile


Regards,

Chuck

"There's a saying in prize fighting, everyone's got a plan until they get hit"

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Originally Posted by colorado
I'm leaning towards either 160g or 175g A-Frames out of my 7mm Rem Magnum if I win the bid smile

Nothing like getting the cart ahead of the horse smirk

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I am well into my 5th decade of guiding in Alaska and any of the previously mentioned bullets, from 160 to 175 gr bullets will work perfectly.
So long as the shooter can


Phil Shoemaker
Alaska Master Guide,
Alaska Hunter Ed Instructor
FAA Master pilot
www.grizzlyskinsofalaska.com

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Any premium bullet 140 grain and up will do the trick (barnes, swift a frame, Nosler partition, etc.) I'd give the nod to a 175 grain swift a-frame if it shot well, but I'd choose accuracy over gaining another 35 grains of bullet weight if it came down to it.

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I should know if I win this rifle by Sunday. If so, I plan to buy 4 boxes of Remington 175g Corelokts. I'll make sure they are accurate (no tumbling, keyholing etc). If so I'll buy a hundred 175g Swift A-Frames and 7mm Rem Mag reloading dies, then ask your advice on powders.


Thanks again,

Chuck


Regards,

Chuck

"There's a saying in prize fighting, everyone's got a plan until they get hit"

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corelokts have been known to jacket core separate over the years. FWIW.

If you ignore the mono bullet comments vs cup and core then stick to 160 to 175 for sure. Anything less would bother me from years and years of watching things get shot by others.


We can keep Larry Root and all his idiotic blabber and user names on here, but we can't get Ralph back..... Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over....
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I don't plan to hunt with the corelokts just use them to test out how the rifle likes 175g spitzers. After that I plan to shoot A-Frames. I prefer them to the Barnes TSX's in general on North American game. They always expand, they always penetrate and they always retain 90% or more of their weight. Here's a 300g A-Frame fired from a 375 H&H that impacted a 900 lb brown bear at 13 yards. Still weighs 299.5g after penetrating the bear diagonally from just behind the right shoulder, bullet found in the hide of his left thigh.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/5NwQ1PZ.jpg?3[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/c5FiRIO.jpg?1[/img]


Regards,

Chuck

"There's a saying in prize fighting, everyone's got a plan until they get hit"

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Have had similar results with 275's out of the .338, on both moose and coastal browns. Have been confident in them since the mid 1990's.

You have (perhaps) seen this by Terry W already... From 5 years ago.
https://www.handloadermagazine.com/swift-a-frame


"You've been here longer than the State of Alaska is old!"
*** my Grandaughters

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