Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Rimfires Help me put together a 10/22

On Saturday my buddy was cleaning his reloading/gun room. He had a 10/22 that he said always seems like it is in the way so I offered him $150 for it and he took it. It’s the gimmicky “tactical” model with the plastic stock. It’s ugly as sin so I’d like to use the action to put together a fairly lightweight package. It will be for plinking, squirrel hunting and varmints that come in the yard. I have never dealt with the 10/22 so I’m looking for input on the following:

What barrels do you all like? Looking for accuracy and lightweight

What stock do you like? Seems kind of hard to find lightweight stocks. I want to avoid a chassis.

What’s the best trigger?

Any other parts needed for my intended use? I read a lot about different bolts and such, but don’t know how deep I need to get into that.

Any info is much appreciated and other input on anything I’m missing. Thanks!

Stock = MagPul
Barrel = Kidd, Green Mountain, Feddersen, etc.............there are several good ones
Trigger = Kidd, Ruger BX, etc.............several other good ones

Good luck! It can get pricy!!! lol

Once you start down the 10/22 upgrade rabbit hole it can get expensive in a hurry - it may end up being the most costly "cheap" gun you have bought.

Maybe try shooting it before starting upgrades, occasionally they do shoot well enough without a lot of money being put into them. If it does shoot well enough then you could put it into a stock that you like more than the tactical style.

drover

So it seems it can lol. Any favorites of the components you listed?

But what fun would that be lol. I look at it like the savage 110 I bought when I was 13. Bought it new for $200. Always shot great, but now it has a shilen barrel, b&c stock, timney trigger, etc. Just want some thing to tinker with. The gun does shoot pretty good even as is but I guess I’m just looking for something different. Not worried about the money part (within reason of course)

I put together a heavy-ish Kidd a while back, and love it. I’m planning a light one too, because they are too much fun.

Kidd ULW, Kidd SS trigger and Hogue stock will be on my next build.

If you start with a Target or Competition version you can cost effectively take a 2 MOA shooter to a 1 MOA. But to get to a .75 to .50 MOA you will pay dearly.

At the end of the day, if you want a real tack driver, choose another platform and spend north of $2,500.

Use your action to save money if you’d like.

Then go KIDD lightweight bbl. KIDD trigger and bolt.

Mine is a heavier build so I can’t suggest a lighter stock, but people seem to love their Houge stocks for a reasonably priced option

Yep, I understand that itch. I've had it many times myself, theres nothing left to do but scratch it.

drover

Another option, for the uses you stated, would be to send the factory barreled action to Randy at CPC.

For hunting and plinking he might can get you what you want, for a whole lot less.

Kidd barrels will shoot though. With decent ammo, mine will consistently keep 5 shots under a penny at 50 yards. If I’m having a good day, with Tenex or Center-X, groups are pretty impressive. I shoot more Tac22 than anything, and it does well too.

Not sure I could do better with a super high dollar rig.

Top group Lapua, others Norma. Typical groups for this rifle, with me shooting it:

Nice shooting! What kids barrel do you have?

20” standard/heavy.

Shelton
I like Kidd lightweight stainless fluted barrels but pretty much anything Kidd built is really good. You need to determine what you want to do with the rifle and then go from there. As drover, myself and others have stated you can really spend alot in a hurry as I know first hand. LOL. Good luck with the build. Let us know how it goes.

Shaw barrels don't get a lot of play in the 10/22 aftermarket world, but they are good barrels. Last time I visited their site, they had a good sale going on them.

For me it was a Shaw Barrel at $110, a BX Trigger at $60 and a B & C stock at $180.

For a rifle that’s not a tank, I put my Clark 16” SS bull barreled action in a MagPul stock. It stays compact even with the can.

That 150 just turned into 500.

I've done several builds. My favorite though was done with a GM sporter fluted barrel 16.5in with a brimstone tier 2 trigger. Sits in a birch sporter stock that I action bedded. Stripped that paint off the receiver they do on the new ones now to bare metal and sealed with deft sanding sealer. I wouldnt worry about replacing the bolt, but i install an upgraded extractor and firing pin like a VQ or kidd.

I had a heavy barrel kidd, it was a shooter, sold it and went with the kidd ultralight and it doesnt shoot near as well for me.

I like the magpul stocks, I have the take down version on one. Hogues have a good feel also.

Randy at CPC is an absolute guru with the 10/22. I have a rifle worked on by him and would put it against anything on the market.

Glad you had good luck with Shaw. I gave up on them years ago in their centerfire line. Barrels had significant tool marks and were not particularly accurate. I've had factory barrels that were smoother and more accurate. Krieger, Shilen, and Hart (in that order) won my business for center fire.

When it comes to rimfires, Kidd and Volquartsen are the 800 pound gorillas to beat. Green Mountain is also a worthy upgrade. I would start with a barrel first on my accuracy quest then look at a good single stage trigger. The rest is just expensive upgrades without significant gains.

I'd be buying a Beyer Barrel. They are a lightweight aluminum body over the steel barrel.
Bull barrel contour with a fraction of the weight and they shoot very well! 13-18 Oz depending on length.
Link here

The 30% off sale on E R Shaw 10-22 barrels is only for 2 more days.

Five shot group from Ruger factory barrel after Randy at CPC had put a match chamber in it. This is at 50 yds with Federal Automatch Walmart Fodder that was run through a Neil Waltz die …
Guy knows his Rugers

Great post, but "pricey" can be minimized if you sell your factory parts. I don't know what the OP has, since there are no pics, but his phrase "gimicky tactical model", has me wondering???? His parts may not be worth selling, depending on what it is. I know a couple/three years ago when I put one together, I sold the stock and barrel to recoup some of the cost of the new stock and barrel. Yes, that helps when you sell the factory stock for $100 and the original barrel for $100.00 or $125.00. If it were me, I'd shoot the factory barrel and see how it does. Still not sure what rifle the op has though?? For a skinny barrel, I'd probably take my chances with green mountain, even though I've gotten bad ones in the past. Most of my buddies that use them, get very good results though. For a "lightweight" barrel, I'd probably go out of my way to buy the Kidd ultra lightweight barrel. You can find them on ebay right now for $239 shipped. The 16 3/4" model weighs in at 20 oz's.

So a magpul stock, Kidd ultra lightweight fluted 16 3/4" barrel would be my suggestion. It would look something like this, except for the finish of the barrel would be black:


Probably shoot like this too:




Wait, let's not go that far yet!! I'll rephrase that. With the proper work to the bolt (squared and headspaced properly), trigger job (I use Volquartsen target hammer kits) and a small amount of bedding work, and good proven scope, your rifle may shoot like that.

On a side note, I think I have around $473.00 into this rifle. That includes buying the rifle used for $249.00 and selling off some parts. Again, those that think you have to pay 2 grand for a good 10-22 are smoking something.

Excellent advice

Have used Randy’s services multiple times and have been very satisfied. Lots of options out there, this would be my starting point. Don’t have any example targets readily available to post. Trust though the improvement is extreme both accuracy and trigger. My opinion he is a craftsman who focused on and perfected his work in a narrow niche.

Thanks for the reply and info! The model I have has the same quality blueing as my brothers wood stock 10/22, but the gimmicky stock I’m referring to is the one that has a laser built into the tip of the forend. Might be someone’s cup of tea, but it sure ain’t mine lol. Looks like you have a nice shooting setup for sure!

I took BSA's advice and put mine together similar to his. It really worked well. The MagPul Hunter model stock is the one I chose like BSA's pic. Remember that the trigger is crucial in my opinion also. Put out a want to buy and you might get lucky on some parts. Great thread guys!

Thanks. Hey you never know, someone may want a stock that shoots out a laser beam??


You did good on your Feddersen barrel. Those guys over on rimfire central really like them. Some even say they may be better than a kidd. Also, the beauty in the Magpul stock that we suggested is the adjustability of it, and the light weight. Which I think was one of the OP's criteria. I've used others, but I can't think of any I'd recommend over the Magpul X-22 stock. For the money, they can't be beat! However, sometimes I wish my rifle was just a little heavier for shooting off the bench, and shooting the fun shoots my club puts on.

There have been some good suggestions here. Good thread. Good luck to the OP. The 10-22 is a damn good platform, the sky is the limit with aftermarket parts you can get for them.

The
Lasermax laser is built into the barrel band, not the stock. You can easily remove it then send the barreled action to Randy and have a real shooter. Randy does not make the barrel lighter so if that is a must I'd order a Beyer barrel. They are on sale at Brownells right now. If you want the lightest then Briley Raptor is your barrel but you give up a little accuracy over the Beyer bull. If you're being that picky then you will need to modify or replace the bolt for competition accuracy. The Axiom stock is half the weight of the Magpul Hunter. How do you define the "Best trigger" available? Lightest pull? Kid 3+3oz 2 stage. https://www.kiddinnovativedesign.com/KIDD-Two-Stage-Trigger-Unit-for-the-22_p_11.html
DNZ makes light and strong ring/mounts that is lighter than installing a rail and rings.

BSA, with you behind the wheel that's a tack driver!


Shelton, The laser on the 10/22's were available around 15 years ago. If you want to part with it or any other 10/22 parts, try the classifieds here or on rimfirecentral.com (RFC).

Lots of good suggestions here, but this is my take...

Decide what you want or think you need. If you're shooting at a range or shooting squirrels in your yard... weight really isn't much of an issue and can be helpful. If however you do a lot of traipsing about with it you'll appreciate a lighter build.

Tinkering with a 10-22, depending on you, can be a lot of fun. There's enough info out there on YouTubes or written up, that you can get out of pretty much any bind you might find yourself in.

As recommended above... I'd first bench it with the factory barrel and a 7X or higher power scope and see what it can do at 50 yards (take the barrel band off first). Try different ammo, rimfires can be picky about what they like... though not match ammo, I find that CCI Standard Velocity is pretty accurate and inexpensive (better than CCI MiniMags, Aquila SV & HV, etc. etc.). If nothing else it will give you a benchmark of where your rifle is starting from. I've never been impressed with the accuracy of any factory barreled 10-22's I've had. Author C.E. Harris tested several (years ago) and determined that one out of about fifty was a shooter.

Regarding the 10/22, I believe the issue is primarily the chamber. One thing that Randy at CPC and several other vendors do is set the factory barrel back about 1/4" and rechamber it (note; this can't be done due to NFA if you have a barrel that is less than about 16.2"). Not sure who's doing what now, but there were a couple of different guys over at RFC that also provided this service, I'd go with Randy.

I've not tried the Magpul stock, but can say the Hogue stock never appealed to me, don't care for the rubbery coating. It also wasn't that stable (in the forend). Tried a chassis, but like you found they weren't my thing... different strokes. My present hunting 10/22 has a factory plastic stock that is light as a feather.

It's amazing (to me) how much a 16" (steel) bull barreled 10/22 weighs. Great for stability when shooting, but terrible when carrying it much. My hunting 10/22 has a Beyer Barrel (0.920" to 0.750" @ the muzzle) which is light and accurate.

Trigger options start with the Ruger BX Trigger for around $80 (recently bought one and the pull weight is 2#-14 oz.), on up to a couple of hundred+ for Kidd, Timney, etc. etc. etc... seems like everyone is building one now, (Full disclosure; I'm a Kidd parts fanboy, their triggers and parts are a work of art). Even better is learning how your trigger works by learning how to disassemble it... from there you can polish some parts and change a few inexpensive springs out and come out with a trigger every bit as crisp and light enough (I've gone down to 1 1/2 pounds with my modified triggers, only to bring them up to what I consider more useful==> 2 1/4 pounds or so).


So shoot it, look at a different barrel option if it doesn't measure up, work on your trigger, and shoot the heck out of it.

Jerry
Here's my walkabout 10/22;



Ten Shots, CCI SV @ 50 Yards;

Great post Jerry.

Good post Jerry. I like your rifle and approach. Generally I like to keep things as simple as possible, but also gain as much as humanly possible. I know a lot of you guys are suggesting Kidd triggers. I have a buddy that spent almost $200 on his and he hates it. Says it's "too light". He's using a factory trigger that I worked over for him instead. It consists of a $60.00 Volquartsen target hammer and trigger kit. It brings the pull weight down to around 2 1/4 pounds and is very smooth and consistent. I generally like my triggers to be in the 2-2 1/2 pound range, so they also suit my needs very well and they don't break the bank. Like you said, it's good to learn how they work as well, by tearing into the 10-22 and working on them yourself.

There are other mods that I always do, since I shoot some competition at a club in Washington. Those are the auto bolt release mod, that requires no parts and only takes about 3 seconds, once you get the part out. The longer mag release lever is also a must if you want to quickly drop the magazine. Most of my clubs shoots are head to head matches, so the quicker you are the better.

There are also ways to accurize the 10-22 yourself, and try to retain the factory barrel if at all possible. First off is the headspace, but you will need a depth gauge and a way to mill down the face of the bolt. I'm not going to tell you how I do this, but it works very well for me. The targets that my 10-22 shoot are a testament to that. Here's another just for schits and giggles:


When I first get a 10-22, I always check the factory barrel to see how it shoots ammo. From the cheapest stuff to match grade stuff. Your suggestion on the CCI standard velocity is spot one, all my buddies swear by it. However, I always start with Federal and American Eagle. I use those as a baseline ammo.

Now, as mentioned earlier, I sold a really nice stainless 10-22 to one of my buddies. I did a few tricks to it, including headspacing, trigger and putting it in a deluxe wood stock. The rifle retained it's original barrel and it shot very well. Here's how it did with some target type ammo:

I wish I still had some pictures of the rifle, but it just looks like a bone stock stainless deluxe 10-22. My buddy loves it and brings it to our KYL shoots from time to time and it does quite well.

Now, with my current 10-22, I tested the factory barrel for accuracy with the ammo I generally like to run. I like cheap accuracy when I can get it, so I use a lot of Federal Automatch. The factory barrel really did not make the cut:


Always have to check them first though. My buddies rifle, I mentioned earlier, will put the Automatch into 3/4" 10 shot groups all day long. My iron sight target rifles also shoot the cheap stuff well, so why not??

I don't know how much Randy at CPC charges to do his magic, but I know a lot of you guys are suggesting him. Personally I'd just as soon sell the factory barrel for $100-125 and put that towards a Kidd barrel. You can get one similar to the one I have for $257 (shipped) on ebay right now. So you would be spending about $130.00 on a damn good barrel and be done with it. Without the hassle of sending a barrel to someone and waiting for who knows how long to get it back. Only to still have a factory barrel that has been coddled a bit to get it to shoot a little better. That's just my approach, and keep in mind shipping costs are astronomical right now. Buy a barrel and be done with it. Simple as that.

Now, about stocks. I am in total agreement with you on the Hogue. I've tried them and don't like them. They seem flimsy and cheap. Probably because they are. However, most factory stocks for the 10-22 have too short of a LOP for my likes. There are exceptions and those are the factory deluxe walnut stock (as mentioned earlier) and the laminated stocks that come on the target models. Those are not too bad for fit, for a factory stock. YMMV.

Another thing that I should mention is it's a buyers market right now, for used 10-22's. I've been seeing them all over the place lately. Ranging in price from $175 and up. Just saw a factory target rifle yesterday for $275, and that would make a great platform for working up a good accurate 10-22. Hell, it might just shoot lights out just the way it is. However, It's always been hit or miss with those cold hammer forged target 10-22 barrels. I've had some that shot well and others that were just crap. YMMV.

I still keep thinking someone needs to start a thread on a 10-22 build from start to finish. List the costs, and show the accuracy gains with all the work done. Good pictures would be a must. Before and after results with the gains would be a cool thread. Show some of these guys that it doesn't have to be really expensive (someone said $2,500.00!!!!) to shoot with the best of them. It's all in how you approach it.

No it doesn't take $2,500+ to make a shooter, however the serious .22 bench guys are easily dropping $3,000 - $4,000 on a competition rifle.

For instance a very popular selection is the Vudoo Target - https://vudoogunworks.com/rifles/vudoo_single_shot_target/

You can make a 10/22 shoot very well without a huge investment and they make an excellent range toy. That's exactly why I have had several through the years and still have two in the safe.

Thanks for all the replies guys! I’m on the road for work but planned to mess with disassembling it this weekend. May do what a lot have suggested and shoot some groups with it first then ultimately do what BSA suggested where I change one thing and reshoot the groups…change another and reshoot the groups, etc. Maybe see where the difference really starts and report back.

Just a little more background on my intentions to clear up some reoccurring questions. My intention for the rifle will be squirrel hunting and yard varmints for the most part, but during the winter we shoot quite a bit of indoor 22 shoots at 50’ into a bullet bunker. A lot of guys shoot anschutz and a couple shoot voodoo rifles. Just to clarify, this isn’t being done to shoot against those…me and my bank account know better than that. But some guys bring semi autos to shoot as well.

I don’t want to offend anyone, but I’m not a fan of how a stock 10/22 looks. With that said it’s at a minimum getting a barrel and a stock to hopefully squeeze out some accuracy…and maybe look a little better in my opinion lol. I know they can and do shoot accurate enough especially for squirrels in their factory form, but I like to tinker with guns and change things up and like I said before im not too concerned with cost within reason. You all have offered a whole lot of cost saving info for starting off on the right foot and it’s much appreciated as always. Please keep it coming!

I’m interested in these Beyer barrels and haven’t hear of them until this thread. I started doing a little research on them and they look like a pretty nice setup. Any additional info on those would be appreciated too.

Also, Has anyone tried the victor company titan stock?

Thanks again for all the info so far! There is some Damn good info in this thread!

I have a Victor titan. Stock feels solid. Not a lightweight but not a pig either. Mine doesn’t fit my Kidd rear tang as well as I’d like, was going to dremel/devcon it. Tried a KRG Bravo that fit me like a glove though.

Keep meaning to sell the Titan but haven’t gotten around to it yet.

I too wanted a light weight rifle for CMP Sporter Rimfire competition. The rifle and scope have to weigh less than 7 1/2# so bull barrels are out. In addition, the rules don’t allow fluted or carbon fiber barrels. I bought a Shaw standard weight barrel and a factory take-off wood stock. I put a Volquartsen hammer in the factory trigger housing and ended up with a nice trigger. I was lucky enough to have a metal trigger housing to start with. The carbine barrel band is not conducive to good accuracy so I cut the stock at the barrel band line and added a contrasting fore end cap and glass bedded the action. As with any 22, it has its favorite ammo, SK Match.

Do they allow aluminum sleeved steel barrels? Can the barrel be threaded for a muzzle device? Beyer makes one in factory taper, mid taper, bull barrel without fluting.

Not to poo poo on the Titan stock, but I've heard of guys having fitment issues with them. When I was putting my rifle together, I did a lot of research to make me choose the one I did.

Here is a video on that barrel I suggested. For the money, that lightweight Kidd probably can't be beat. Check it out:



Don just posted this video a couple hours ago. You may even like that stock he's using. All kinds of options, but when it comes to getting the best accuracy out of your 10-22, I put my money on Kidd.

That is a good shooting little rifle. I believe I made up my mind to go with that barrel when the time comes.

Cool. You'll have to let us know how it shoots for you.

Lots of stellar advice here. A 10/22 is like legos. You can go from mild to wild and everything in between. The fact that you can build a 10/22 without a single Ruger part says something about the aftermarket. The first thing you need to decide is some parameters around what you want the rifle to be and then make your decisions based on that. I have multiples that are wildly different from super heavy target to light woods to super quiet.

Not sure your level of experience with the 10/22 so no insult intended but seriously two of the best upgrades you can do for less that probably $15 is a new recoil buffer and auto bolt release. From there I like to got aftermarket or modified bolt with pinned firing pin. All of that can be done without truly deciding a direction for the rifle.

Kidd triggers are the bomb. Have them on a couple and love them. Kidd barrels are also excellent but again depending on usage may be price overkill. One of my favorite, but now gone 10/22's had a Hogue (I know crappy) stock, a worked over factory trigger and a tac-sol barrel and it was amazing. i also have a few mostly factory in boyd's stocks that are fun as well. Latest creation is a takedown with a tac-sol trigger and tacsol integrally suppressed barrel in a Magpul backpacker. Point is your usuage will define your build and the combinations are infinate at this point......or you could just say F' it and buy a Vudoo, lol.. Cheers

Some guys say "F it", and buy Volquartsens too, but they don't shoot any better than some low dollar rifles I've seen. I guess there are so many ways to get it done, it will make your head spin.

Yes, you can get lucky with a Green Mountain barrel on a btownells action but you know the Volquartsen will be accurate. The feel of the gun is in addition to the good groups, like a Ruger 77/22 vs Savage mkii.

BSA; "I know a lot of you guys are suggesting Kidd triggers. I have a buddy that spent almost $200 on his and he hates it. Says it's "too light"."

Just want to point out that Kidd Triggers, both the one stage and two stage are ordered by your desired pull weight. Mine was within an ounce or two of my chosen weight.

And as BSA and others point out, there are a lot of less expensive options to get a very good trigger without spending a couple of hundred on a Kidd, VQ, etc. trigger.

Jerry

Got a used 85 model 1022.
Volq hammer, GM heavy taper 19" and Titan stock upgrades.
Did .4" for five at 50 yards w SK rifle match.
Didnt care for other non match ammo.

That's interesting Jerry. I'm going to have to ask my buddy why he ordered an 8 oz pull on his Kidd trigger. Sounds about right with him though. He likes to biotch about things, and is likely his fault. I will say again, that he does like the $60 Volquartsen upgrades I did to the factory trigger better than the Kidd. I don't think I'd pay $200+ for a trigger, but that is just me.

Well just a quick update. I ended up going Titan stock, kid ultralight and against my better judgment a BX trigger (found one for $57 so didn’t think it would hurt to try…will prolly eventually upgrade to a Kidd). I put a Meopta optika5 3-15 on it. It’s been pretty windy so I haven’t shot it out to 50 or farther yet. We have indoor bullet traps for shooting 50’ matches and we can get 25 yds in my buddy’s shop. It is boringly accurate from the very first group lol. Shot several different types of ammo and it shoots RWS Special match, eley semi-auto and CCI standards into damn near the same hole for 5 shots. It takes a bit to get used to shooting a rifle that light. Be interesting to see how it does at 50 yds and farther. I think it will serve its purpose for indoor shoots and squirrels/varmints.

Several guys have mentioned sending components to randy at CPC. Is there any downfall just sending him my bolt for a work over? I know most do the full package on the whole rifle, but curious if doing just the bolt will have any value. Thanks again for all the info!

I'd expect a Kidd barrel to send just about any kind of ammo into the same hole at 25 yards. When you get a chance to try it at 50 yards, you'll be pretty impressed with the way it shoots at that distance too. Sounds like a nice build.

I always thought those stocks looked very nice, just did not like hearing the negatives about fitment. Nothing wrong with a BX25 trigger either. Wondering if yours has the oldstyle aluminum housing?? I would have put in some Volquartsen parts, and ended up with a better trigger than the BX trigger, for about the same money. A Kidd trigger is over priced, as far as I'm concerned. Very diminished returns IMHO.

If you want a good bolt, look into a JWH precision bolt. They are about $100 on ebay. Again, I don't know how much Randy at CPC charges, but you don't really need someone to work over your bolt, when you can get a better one for the same price (assuming CPC is not cheap) as what CPC charges, then resell your original, if need be. Some of you guys want to do things as expensively and non thought out as possible, it seems. Keeping in mind, you build one wrong, and you are going to be into it for far more than the rifle is worth. Not a smart way to do it.

I've been happy with my CPC worked bolt. Would go that route again or maybe just buy a new bolt from him if he has inventory. That would eliminate downtime.

He charges $49 to rework the bolt. I had no fotment issues with the Titan stock. I bought the take down screw from them and everything fit tight and well. So far I can’t say anything negative there.

How much do you want to spend on it?

For about $325 you could do the following:

I like the Ruger American style stock with the interchangeable LOP and comb height modules. S&P outfitters often has them and they regularly show up on eBay. They are usually advertised as "modular" and "modular compact" styles.

I think that you get more value from a CPC upgrade for the money, around $250, then anything else that you can do. Randy takes a holistic approach, so everything that he does works together, something that doesn't always happen when you just swap out parts.

I did a lot of what killerv mentions, specifically a Green Mountain Sporter barrel, and a Brimstone trigger job. I also upgraded the extractor because the bolt needed it, but eventually went with a Kidd bolt. I finished up with a bedded Ruger walnut stock, and wound up with what is called a 'Super Stock' edition. It looks like a stock 10/22 but shoots MUCH better. I can also echo the comments on CPC.