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#18977668 12/02/23
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Built a short stand to set my meat grinder and meat tubs on that's just below waist high. Easier on the trashed rotator cuffs than working at normal counter top height. Built it with 2x4's and a piece of OSB. I have a 1/4" thick piece of HDPE coming that I will top it with to make cleaning it off easier and more sanitary.

I would really like to just glue the HDPE to the wood if I can.

What will stick the two together and not come apart on me?

I may put a few stainless screws around the perimeter as well.


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Good luck with that. If the surface is big enough maybe try contact cement. You can also build the stand with wood and cover in Formica laminate for an easy to clean surface. You could also just buy an electric grinder and really save your rotator cuffs.

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I don't thing anything will stick


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Maybe some epoxy, but those two materials are going to be very difficult to glue together.

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What makes HDPE such a great material for blow molding is how almost nothing sticks to it.

IME it is the WORST material to 3d print. The only print bed I've found that it will stick to is other sheets of HDPE when the extruded material is hot enough to melt the print bed and fuse to it.

So, yea, good luck.


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gorilla glue is good but AOC trying to ban it

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Originally Posted by Traveler52
I don't thing anything will stick

Yeah, that's pretty much the gist of a quick Google I did. There are some chemicals that will cause a bond, but I'll have to go back and see what they were and then find the glue that contains them. All Greek to me though.


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Originally Posted by Feral_American
Originally Posted by Traveler52
I don't thing anything will stick

Yeah, that's pretty much the gist of a quick Google I did. There are some chemicals that will cause a bond, but I'll have to go back and see what they were and then find the glue that contains them. All Greek to me though.

Yes, there are chemicals that will cause a bond, but not at room temperature normal pressures.


You didn't use logic or reason to get into this opinion, I cannot use logic or reason to get you out of it.

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Originally Posted by K1500
Good luck with that. If the surface is big enough maybe try contact cement. You can also build the stand with wood and cover in Formica laminate for an easy to clean surface. You could also just buy an electric grinder and really save your rotator cuffs.

I'm already talking about an electric grinder. Pretty sad, huh, lol.

I spend 50 hours a week welding overhead. Last thing I want to do is jam meat through a grinder at countertop top level. Swore last year it was the last time.

I'm thinking contact cement contains the chemicals that will cause a bond with HDPE but I might be wrong in what I read. There's a way, just thought some y'all might know offhand.

I did consider formica but found a deal on the HDPE, and I like how durable my cutting boards are. Might use this stand as a sit down cutting board dual purpose, which is why I'd rather just glue it down.


I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
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Originally Posted by Feral_American
Originally Posted by K1500
Good luck with that. If the surface is big enough maybe try contact cement. You can also build the stand with wood and cover in Formica laminate for an easy to clean surface. You could also just buy an electric grinder and really save your rotator cuffs.

I'm already talking about an electric grinder. Pretty sad, huh, lol.

I spend 50 hours a week welding overhead. Last thing I want to do is jam meat through a grinder at countertop top level. Swore last year it was the last time.

I'm thinking contact cement contains the chemicals that will cause a bond with HDPE but I might be wrong in what I read. There's a way, just thought some y'all might know offhand.

I did consider formica but found a deal on the HDPE, and I like how durable my cutting boards are. Might use this stand as a sit down cutting board dual purpose, which is why I'd rather just glue it down.

This is the best I've found, but I doubt it will work for your purposes:

[Linked Image from static-content.cromwell.co.uk]

It's really sticky stuff, but if it doesn't work, it's a mess to clean off so you can try something else.


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I'd try two things. Hi-Line gumbo, and Kasilof River tidal flat mud. Damned near guaranteed! smile


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As an aside, Loctite and Krazyglue superglues are way better than the Gorilla stuff.


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Liquid Nails


l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right.
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No idea where you could source it....
We use .010 Mylar at work, rolled stock.

It's my miracle meat cutting surface.
Cover anything with it, cut right on it, roll it up and toss it when it get cut up.
I get it free, so it gets pitched every use.


Again, no idea where you could find it that thick.
And you sure as hell don't want 1000 yards, or the bill!



I'll be dipped! It took a few minutes...



[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]



$5.50/ft for the 40". Gotta buy 25 feet.
Expensive, but if you only need 3' that roll could last you 10 years.


(It works well with a good 2 sided tape. We cover work tables witartwork. work.
makes a nice,easy clean surface)


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I built my own electric grinder using a #32 hand grinder with a pulley on the auger and a half horse commercial motor. Mounted it on a base made with 2x4s and topped with OSB. I put a bunch (that's a highly precise, technical term), of coats of polyurethane on it. It cleans up easily.

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ruff it up and try the 2 part epoxy that you use to glue all thread into concrete

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We use food grade, 1/4" HDPE (Starboard) often on fish cleaning tables/stations in harsh environments. Have never used adhesive though. We use a solid backer and attach with stainless steel trim screws. The only trick is slightly counter-sinking the screw heads so they won't dull or ruin knives.

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You never heard of Corian? Epoxy works with it......

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Originally Posted by High_Noon
Liquid Nails
This

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Originally Posted by Bama_Rick
We use food grade, 1/4" HDPE (Starboard) often on fish cleaning tables/stations in harsh environments. Have never used adhesive though. We use a solid backer and attach with stainless steel trim screws. The only trick is slightly counter-sinking the screw heads so they won't dull or ruin knives.

That will probably be the way I go.


I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
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Originally Posted by earlybrd
Originally Posted by High_Noon
Liquid Nails
This


Not this. The only thing that will stick to ldpe or hdpe is ldpe or hdpe using hot air or soldering iron.

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Just stainless screw the [bleep] out of it from the bottom and cut the excess of the screws of with a grinder.

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Originally Posted by acy
I built my own electric grinder using a #32 hand grinder with a pulley on the auger and a half horse commercial motor. Mounted it on a base made with 2x4s and topped with OSB. I put a bunch (that's a highly precise, technical term), of coats of polyurethane on it. It cleans up easily.

Same, same.
Put a 1.5" sheave on the 1750 rpm motor.
That pulls a 4" sheave on a speed brake.

The other end of the sheave has a 1" sheave connected to the 11" sheave that came with the grinder.
Gets you a cool, smooth, easy, 60 rpm grinder.

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Originally Posted by huntsman22
You never heard of Corian? Epoxy works with it......

Best idea so far.


You didn't use logic or reason to get into this opinion, I cannot use logic or reason to get you out of it.

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Originally Posted by antelope_sniper
Originally Posted by huntsman22
You never heard of Corian? Epoxy works with it......

Best idea so far.

At $30 to $80 per square foot for Corian, point me to a piece 24" x 36" for the $46 I paid for the HDPE shipped. I'm not building a piece of fine furniture here, and the HDPE is already inbound. I'm going to apply a good double sided tape to make the middle keep from slapping and run a few countersunk SS screws around it to hold it down, and call it done.

Thanks for all the suggestions, never thought about the doubled sided tape until I saw it mentioned by someone above. Perfect solution.


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Super glue?

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Nothing I know of will stick HDPE.

3M 5200 is about the best adhesive I know... and even with a mechanical grind it will not stick HDPE.


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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Originally Posted by Feral_American
Originally Posted by antelope_sniper
Originally Posted by huntsman22
You never heard of Corian? Epoxy works with it......

Best idea so far.

At $30 to $80 per square foot for Corian, point me to a piece 24" x 36" for the $46 I paid for the HDPE shipped. I'm not building a piece of fine furniture here, and the HDPE is already inbound. I'm going to apply a good double sided tape to make the middle keep from slapping and run a few countersunk SS screws around it to hold it down, and call it done.

Thanks for all the suggestions, never thought about the doubled sided tape until I saw it mentioned by someone above. Perfect solution.
Here is what you need .

High Bond a strength

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K4PQG8P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1


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I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
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