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I have a couple of guns that are projects. Both are shooting 3-4 moa groups with factory hunting ammo. Both should be very accurate guns.

I’m systematically going through and looking for problems. One such problem might be the ammo.

One question: what sort of test might I do to see if the ammo is part of the problem? (I’ve heard do measuring chamber depth to see if you’re seated too far back, but is that doable without specialized tools?)

Second: Has anyone gone from 3-4 moa to sub moa by switching to hand-loads? Or is it usually a matter of going from something like 1moa to 1/2 moa?

To predict some comments, yes I’ve checked the scope, rings,mounts, crown and attachment to the stock. Having a gunsmith scope the barrel is next.

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I had a .223 that shot 2-3 moa scoped the barrel and the last 1/2-3/4” of the muzzle showed horrible gouges and tool marks in the rifling. Cut 1” off and recrowned. Shot 10 shots at 3/4 moa afterwards. Same ammo. Reloading can’t hurt but sometimes the problem isn’t obvious

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How many different brands of ammo have you tried. I have had guns that shot 4" groups become 1 1/2" guns by finding the factory ammo the rifle liked. My MRC 260 Rem is just such a rifle.

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Originally Posted by VaHunter
How many different brands of ammo have you tried. I have had guns that shot 4" groups become 1 1/2" guns by finding the factory ammo the rifle liked. My MRC 260 Rem is just such a rifle.

One rifle shoots match ammo 3/4 moa. Shoots all available brands of hunting ammo 2-3 moa. Hence the idea that reloading might be a solution. I’m theorizing that the slightly longer match bullets may be reaching closer to the start of rifling. Berger tells me my twist should make all the stuff I’ve tried stable.

The other rifle is a 28nosler. I’ve only tried 2types of factory ammo. Both shoot poorly. I’d prefer to not buy any more ammo until I’ve figured out what’s going on.

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What distances have you tested these rifles?

Chamberings?
Twists?
Bullets?


I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
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Originally Posted by Feral_American
What distances have you tested these rifles?

Chamberings?
Twists?
Bullets?

100 yards and 300 yards.

300prc - have shot (factory ammo) eld-x, eld-m and outfitter. Eld-m shoots 3/4 moa. The other two 2-3 moa. 1:8 twist.

28nosler - (factory) eld-x and 175gr ABLR. Eld-x does 2moa, ABLR does 4. 1:8.5 twist.

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Sorry, I missed your response to VaHunter.

Twists should be fine though, and even that factory hunting ammo should do a little better than that.

Reloading is a really expensive experiment these days with even the basics to get into it, unless you have access to someone else's bench, tools, and dies.

I've cut 1.5 MOA in half with reloads in a factory barrel. With my premium barrels I've only ever handloaded, and 1/2 moa is my benchmark with those.

Distance to the lands is over rated criteria in my opinion. I've had loads that jumped a canyon to get there shooting sub moa. One in particular was the 90 gr Sierra HP jumped a whopping. 250" to the lands in a factory Rem 270Win BDL barrel. Yeah, I couldn't believe it either. Shot tiny little touching 5 shot clusters at 100 yards if I let it cool all the way down between shots.


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Originally Posted by Woolsocks
I have a couple of guns that are projects. Both are shooting 3-4 moa groups with factory hunting ammo. Both should be very accurate guns.

I’m systematically going through and looking for problems. One such problem might be the ammo.

One question: what sort of test might I do to see if the ammo is part of the problem? (I’ve heard do measuring chamber depth to see if you’re seated too far back, but is that doable without specialized tools?)

Second: Has anyone gone from 3-4 moa to sub moa by switching to hand-loads? Or is it usually a matter of going from something like 1moa to 1/2 moa?

To predict some comments, yes I’ve checked the scope, rings,mounts, crown and attachment to the stock. Having a gunsmith scope the barrel is next.

First question is how light is the rifle, and have you had someone else shoot it as well? I had to go to the range last month to diagnose a rifle that was shooting poorly. I saw after one group from the factory ammo that it was the ammo. The owner of the rifle and my buddy were both trying to shoot it, and they could not get it zeroed. Part of that was a scope issue, but most of it was the ammo they were using. It was 3-4 moa with them behind the butt. I fired off one group with the factory ammo and it shot roughly 1 1/2 to 1 3/4" for 3 shots. I asked the owner if could try some of my handloads and he said sure, he had nothing to lose at that point. My handloads were grouping into less than an inch. Probably closer to 3/4". I asked him if he had tried the ammo that they were going to be hunting with. He said no, and I asked if I could try that ammo. It also shot into 3/4". Problem solved, it was the crappy white box Winchester ammo they were using to try to get the rifle dialed in. Plus the rifle was very light (sub 5 pounds), and I don't think they had much experience with a lightweight rifle. If you say everything checks out, then it is pointing to the bore being crap, shooter error, or bad ammo.


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Originally Posted by Woolsocks
I have a couple of guns that are projects. Both are shooting 3-4 moa groups with factory hunting ammo. Both should be very accurate guns.

I’m systematically going through and looking for problems. One such problem might be the ammo.

One question: what sort of test might I do to see if the ammo is part of the problem? (I’ve heard do measuring chamber depth to see if you’re seated too far back, but is that doable without specialized tools?)

Second: Has anyone gone from 3-4 moa to sub moa by switching to hand-loads? Or is it usually a matter of going from something like 1moa to 1/2 moa?

To predict some comments, yes I’ve checked the scope, rings,mounts, crown and attachment to the stock. Having a gunsmith scope the barrel is next.

I have one factory rifle, A Winchester Heavy Varmint chambered in 220 Swift
With ANY factory ammo I have tried it shoots 3 MOA at best. with lots of tinkering with handloads it is easily a 1/2 MOA rifle. only downside is OAL of my handloads make it a single shot but that is fine with me

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Check everything. Scope, bedding, rings, adjust trigger, shooter, then worry about loads.

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Which Reupolds are you using and in what mounts? Hint………….


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Have you had someone else shoot them?

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Originally Posted by Woolsocks
Originally Posted by Feral_American
What distances have you tested these rifles?

Chamberings?
Twists?
Bullets?

100 yards and 300 yards.

300prc - have shot (factory ammo) eld-x, eld-m and outfitter. Eld-m shoots 3/4 moa. The other two 2-3 moa. 1:8 twist.

28nosler - (factory) eld-x and 175gr ABLR. Eld-x does 2moa, ABLR does 4. 1:8.5 twist.

Christianson Arms rifles?

Make sure you're not catching the sling-studs on the front or rear bags during recoil.

Any chance you're bouncing the bbl off the stock near the end of the stock during recoil?

Last edited by horse1; 12/05/23.

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Originally Posted by horse1
Christianson Arms rifles?
Curious about that as well...they've developed a reputation for turning out rifles that needed to be sent back to the factory for poor accuracy.

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i had a younger friend with the same problems ,so i taught him how to shoot a rifle correctly ,loaded ammo for him and now he shoots real well and is happy what he learned . somehow young people need us older people to teach many shooter`s some skills . my son and daughter were raised to shoot, fish and hunt ,now my grandson is learning so far at 11 years old 2 deer he has shot one shot each with a Ruger #1 ,simple is better for the younger generation and still my favorite way. > as far as reloading goes that takes a year or two to become a decent ammo reloader that i had help with 40 some years ago , but bench rest competition , many reloading books did make me a much better reloader of ammo , so yes hand loaded ammo is much better hunting ammo if you have those skills. good luck , Pete53

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To answer some of the questions above. One rifle is a browning x-bolt. The other is a fierce fury.

Glass is a Burris xtr3 3.3x18x50, Seekins rings, tikka rail. Yes, I’ve tried multiple positions and had others shoot with the same results. Yes, I’ve placed the scope/rings on another rifle and shot sub-moa with it. Yes, I’ve checked bedding and crown.

Back to the original question. Has anybody had a 75 percent plus accuracy gain from reloading, either by finding a bullet the barrel likes, or reducing the jump to the lands? Sounds like the answer is not so much..

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Originally Posted by Woolsocks
Back to the original question. Has anybody had a 75 percent plus accuracy gain from reloading, either by finding a bullet the barrel likes, or reducing the jump to the lands? Sounds like the answer is not so much..



Over random factory ammo?

Yes

If you’re not going to handload, you have to do what was already suggested. Buy a variety of factory ammo that fits your requirements and see which one shoots the best. When and if you find one that shoots well, buy as much of that lot number as you can get your hands on.

If nothing shoots well, whether factory or handloads, the barrel just might not be capable of anything better.

You’ll save money in the long run by having it rebarreled


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Originally Posted by Woolsocks
Back to the original question. Has anybody had a 75 percent plus accuracy gain from reloading, either by finding a bullet the barrel likes, or reducing the jump to the lands? Sounds like the answer is not so much..

In my experience a rifle that will shoot handloads into sub MOA will also shoot quality factory ammo with respectable accuracy. Also in my experience, a rifle that won't shoot factory ammo decently won't respond very well to handloading. There is always the outlier that is the exception to the norm, and maybe you have two of them. I don't have the magic answer myself, maybe someone else does. If they were my rifles I would have started out with dies, components, and load testing, and not fooled with factory ammo. If i couldn't get them to shoot I'd ditch them and move on. So, there's that.


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Send them back to the factories and let the manufacturers fix the problem(s).

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Oft times people buy s hit that even God Himself would frown upon as far as being able to produce accuracy! My brother bought a friggin Beretta (rifle supposedly) a while back in 9mm and it's the biggest piece of s hit that I've ever seen; and I've seen a lot over 83 years believe me! Trigger weight was nothing less than 28#! As for reloads improving accuracy it depends what the reloads are going to be chambered it! If it's a piece of s hit to begin with then it's gonna have to have a special blessing from God to see any improvement! You're gonna have to have an adequate rifle to begin with to see any improvement in accuracy shooting handholds and there's a helluva lot more to producing accurate ammo with reloads than just a casual thought!


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