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Get a 20MOA base and mount it in reverse to offset the supposed bad receiver?

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Originally Posted by FTR_Shooter
Get a 20MOA base and mount it in reverse to offset the supposed bad receiver?

Can't do that with a R700, the receiver mounting levels are different.

I'd go with offset plastic inserts in Burris rings.

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I spoke with Jerry again. He thinks the receiver is too low in the back. I'm going to check that today.

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If it's the receiver, I'd start on a new rifle with a real action. If you're married to that one, Murphy Precision can make you a base to correct.

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Originally Posted by timspawn
I spoke with Jerry again. He thinks the receiver is too low in the back. I'm going to check that today.

How are you going to check that?

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Originally Posted by timspawn
I spoke with Jerry again. He thinks the receiver is too low in the back. I'm going to check that today.


Too low in the back reduces elevation. You're hitting too high.

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Originally Posted by RPN
Originally Posted by FTR_Shooter
Get a 20MOA base and mount it in reverse to offset the supposed bad receiver?

Can't do that with a R700, the receiver mounting levels are different.

I'd go with offset plastic inserts in Burris rings.

Burris Signature rings are my favorite mounts, and they can take care of this issue.

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With the front of the base screwed down and no screws in the back, there is about 15 to 20 thousandths gap between the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver at the rear. Screwing the rear of the base down will case the scope to cant upward the same amount which makes a big difference at 100 yards and beyond. The solution is to bed the rail to the rifle so there is no bend in the rail.

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Originally Posted by timspawn
With the front of the base screwed down and no screws in the back, there is about 15 to 20 thousandths gap between the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver at the rear. Screwing the rear of the base down will case the scope to cant upward the same amount which makes a big difference at 100 yards and beyond. The solution is to bed the rail to the rifle so there is no bend in the rail.

Which is why I bed every base on every action. wink


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Originally Posted by Al_Nyhus
Originally Posted by timspawn
With the front of the base screwed down and no screws in the back, there is about 15 to 20 thousandths gap between the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver at the rear. Screwing the rear of the base down will case the scope to cant upward the same amount which makes a big difference at 100 yards and beyond. The solution is to bed the rail to the rifle so there is no bend in the rail.

Which is why I bed every base on every action. wink

I've probably mounted a hundred scopes and never had an issue. First time for everything I guess.

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Originally Posted by timspawn
With the front of the base screwed down and no screws in the back, there is about 15 to 20 thousandths gap between the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver at the rear. Screwing the rear of the base down will case the scope to cant upward the same amount which makes a big difference at 100 yards and beyond. The solution is to bed the rail to the rifle so there is no bend in the rail.


Interesting how canting the scope upward toward the front leaves you hitting high.

BTW, how old is that 700 action?

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Originally Posted by timspawn
With the front of the base screwed down and no screws in the back, there is about 15 to 20 thousandths gap between the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver at the rear. Screwing the rear of the base down will case the scope to cant upward the same amount which makes a big difference at 100 yards and beyond. The solution is to bed the rail to the rifle so there is no bend in the rail.

It's likely that it's a Remington issue, but you can't rule out a bad base at this point.

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Originally Posted by mathman
Originally Posted by timspawn
With the front of the base screwed down and no screws in the back, there is about 15 to 20 thousandths gap between the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver at the rear. Screwing the rear of the base down will case the scope to cant upward the same amount which makes a big difference at 100 yards and beyond. The solution is to bed the rail to the rifle so there is no bend in the rail.


Interesting how canting the scope upward toward the front leaves you hitting high.

BTW, how old is that 700 action?

It's a newer one. Two years old maybe.

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Originally Posted by PaulBarnard
Originally Posted by timspawn
With the front of the base screwed down and no screws in the back, there is about 15 to 20 thousandths gap between the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver at the rear. Screwing the rear of the base down will case the scope to cant upward the same amount which makes a big difference at 100 yards and beyond. The solution is to bed the rail to the rifle so there is no bend in the rail.

It's likely that it's a Remington issue, but you can't rule out a bad base at this point.

The one I started with was a Leupold, the one on there now, the one I used the feeler gauge on is an EGW.

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Said scope is a piece of fhuqking schit,with but 25 MOA of erector "latitude" and that with windage CENTERED,which it isn't. Hint.

Burris Signature Extremes are an EASY fix and all you need to do,is toss +20 MOA in the front ring bottom and "0" in the rear,to land center-esque in the S&B's ridiculous fhuqking window of "opportunity". Hint.

Just saying........................


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Originally Posted by mathman
Originally Posted by timspawn
With the front of the base screwed down and no screws in the back, there is about 15 to 20 thousandths gap between the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver at the rear. Screwing the rear of the base down will case the scope to cant upward the same amount which makes a big difference at 100 yards and beyond. The solution is to bed the rail to the rifle so there is no bend in the rail.


Interesting how canting the scope upward toward the front leaves you hitting high.
Indeed. Doesn't make much sense.

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Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Originally Posted by mathman
Originally Posted by timspawn
With the front of the base screwed down and no screws in the back, there is about 15 to 20 thousandths gap between the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver at the rear. Screwing the rear of the base down will case the scope to cant upward the same amount which makes a big difference at 100 yards and beyond. The solution is to bed the rail to the rifle so there is no bend in the rail.


Interesting how canting the scope upward toward the front leaves you hitting high.
Indeed. Doesn't make much sense.

Makes you wonder if the OP is turning the turrets the wrong direction. Those S&B scopes have some unusual markings for elevation direction on some models and it can be confusing, I have moved them the wrong way myself. I don't own any S&B scopes now but if I remember correctly the Precision Hunter I had did not just have "U" for moving the point of impact up and "D" for moving it down. I am not familiar with the Polar T96.

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Originally Posted by VaHunter
Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Originally Posted by mathman
Originally Posted by timspawn
With the front of the base screwed down and no screws in the back, there is about 15 to 20 thousandths gap between the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver at the rear. Screwing the rear of the base down will case the scope to cant upward the same amount which makes a big difference at 100 yards and beyond. The solution is to bed the rail to the rifle so there is no bend in the rail.


Interesting how canting the scope upward toward the front leaves you hitting high.
Indeed. Doesn't make much sense.

Makes you wonder if the OP is turning the turrets the wrong direction. Those S&B scopes have some unusual markings for elevation direction on some models and it can be confusing. They don't just have "U" for moving the point of impact up and "D" for moving it down.

Actually it does have U and D.

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Originally Posted by timspawn
Originally Posted by VaHunter
Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Originally Posted by mathman
Originally Posted by timspawn
With the front of the base screwed down and no screws in the back, there is about 15 to 20 thousandths gap between the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver at the rear. Screwing the rear of the base down will case the scope to cant upward the same amount which makes a big difference at 100 yards and beyond. The solution is to bed the rail to the rifle so there is no bend in the rail.


Interesting how canting the scope upward toward the front leaves you hitting high.
Indeed. Doesn't make much sense.

Makes you wonder if the OP is turning the turrets the wrong direction. Those S&B scopes have some unusual markings for elevation direction on some models and it can be confusing. They don't just have "U" for moving the point of impact up and "D" for moving it down.

Actually it does have U and D.

Well there goes that theory.

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Originally Posted by timspawn
Originally Posted by PaulBarnard
Originally Posted by timspawn
With the front of the base screwed down and no screws in the back, there is about 15 to 20 thousandths gap between the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver at the rear. Screwing the rear of the base down will case the scope to cant upward the same amount which makes a big difference at 100 yards and beyond. The solution is to bed the rail to the rifle so there is no bend in the rail.

It's likely that it's a Remington issue, but you can't rule out a bad base at this point.

The one I started with was a Leupold, the one on there now, the one I used the feeler gauge on is an EGW.

Gotcha.

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