Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Chain sharpening tool

I use that too. Best I've found.

Yup.

Sharpen with a file while I’m sitting on the couch watching Wagon Train…

Yup
Swiss files all by eye. Rakers adjusted with a flat file, according to saw, and whether wood is frozen or not. I'd be embarrassed as fk to admit that I use any of these fkn training wheels devices to sharpen a saw.

10 degrees on milling saws, 25 degrees for the falling/bucking saws. I run about 50 gallons of mixed a year in saws, hand filing is like breathing air, yah just do it......
















[img]https://i.postimg.cc/W4htbXJf/20220528-151224.jpg[/img]

I have always used a round 13/64 or a 5/16th file to sharpen my saws. Easy peasy. Inexpensive.

Your file has a handle on it. Fancy.

Do these work? Got one for Christmas a couple of years ago. I haven’t taken it out of the box to try.

Yeah, they work, but....

Dad got one 30 or so years ago. He's tapped out of the wood cutting thing at 80 years old and he told me to drag it to my shop last summer. I bolted a 2x4 to the bottom of it so I can just clamp it in a vise because I didn't want it taking up space on the saw bench.

If you set your angles right, take your time, and not hog too much, you can get a decent sharp with it. In my opinion a hand file and good eye is damn quicker, and less prone to burn teeth.

I would like it exponentially better if the motor was reversible so wheel rotation is correct for both sides of the chain. Variable speed would be cool too.

Set it up and use it, you'll see what I'm talking about.

Most people don't even have a basic knowledge of how to sharpen anything. Knives, chainsaws, scissors... whatever.

They all look for a magical tool to do it for them. Lacking basic knowledge of bevels and angles, they are probably better off using some sort of machine that does the thinking for them...

I used to work in a saw shop and sharpened thousands of chains on the bench mounted grinder. In the shop we had a MIDI Jolly. When I quit working in the shop, I got one more myself. This will do only the cutting edge, you've still got to do the rakers with a flat file and dress the bar by hand.

This.

Easy peasy.

at less than 30 bucks for 2 chains from amazon it ain't worth my time to sharpen a chain any more

A friend has a 12v he run off his pickup battry.

lol

Do you even need to keep a sharp chain cuttin all that spruce, pine, balsa chit.

More of the “out west bliss”


🤣

I buy a new one when I have a lot of cutting to do.

If you're cheap: link

Gotta be smarter than the tool. 🤣

These flamboyant fkn PNW Canadians with their cedar balsa wood, high heels, skip tooth chains and saws ported for max rpms. They literally think the cutting world revolves around them.

Few observations:
Those saws don't run fer fkn sht up here in below zero weather. Running too much rpm, saw won't even get up to temp, even with a flywheel bib.

Too high rpms, chains just skip and chatter over the frozen alaskan birch, no matter the raker depth. Alaskan birch is as dense as oak. Then 20 below zero: semi chisel only full house only.

Humboldt under cut: senless up here. Our wood isn't that valuable, no need in preserving a half a foot of a fkn stick. Congratulations, that Humboldt cut buried the butt end of the tree into 4 foot of snow pack. If u don't immediately dig that tree out of that snow, it'll freeze into the packed snow so badly, you'll snap winch cables trying to lewis-winch it out. Whereas a conventional face cut: tree launches off the face cut, crown slaps the snowpack, butt end of log high n dry.

A lot of those gadgets work, but usually are more trouble to set up than they are worth. Get a proper sized file, learn to use it, and do it in a fraction of the time.

I run a Timberline and really like it!

It's a Chinese knockoff of a Timberline, why would you openly support stealing ? Neither of them trim the rakers, so what good are either..
The Stihl 2in1 sharpener is the best I've ever used.