Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Impressed by the 350 RM

Howdy, a couple of years ago I got this Remington model 600 in 350 REM Mag from a friend who owned it since new and never fired it due to its reputation of having a heavy recoil.
When i fired it with factory ammo I was surprised that the recoil wasn’t as bad as what I read.
This past season I was able to harvest three bucks with the longest shot being at 225 yards using 200gr ftx bullets.
My 2022 season was not good so on my last sit I placed a target at 305 yards and then brought it in to 200 yards, I was shocked with how accurate the rifle was and this was from on top of a deer stand.
I’d say the only down side of owning this gun is finding brass.
I just wanted to share my experience.

I have a Model Seven in 350 Mag weighing 6-1/2 lbs scoped. They aren't nearly as bad for recoil off the bench as most detractors will have you believe. I'm shooting 225 Partitions at 2575-2600 fps. I have about 150 pieces of 350 brass but I have made about 40 from 7 Rem Mag brass and it's not hard at all. They do require neck turning. I did it just to see how it would work out.

Mine's a 700 Classic that I bought new in 1985 or '86. One of the most consistently accurate rifles I've ever owned. Haven't used it in years, but not willing to part with it. Accumulated a stash of factory 200 and 250 grain Rem corelokt ammo and some factory Nosler 225 gr Partion loads that should cover me if I do start using it again.

I used a 350 Rem Mag in a 600 Remington since the 60’s. Finally, old age, arthritis, & bursitis got to me and I let it go. That was a very accurate rifle with 250 grain SPEER, Hornady and Partition bullets, but it let me know it was there when I shot it off the bench.
I still have a 700 Classic in 350 RM. it is unfired I believe. I have sold 200+ cases and loads in 350. I still have 4 boxes of 250 grain factory loads and naybe 60 to 80 reloads.
I’ve been working a lot with Whelen’s and my BDL Whelen is threaded for a suppressor. It doesn’t have the resale value of that Classic, I think. So I’ll wear the Whelen out.
The 35’s in that power range kill above their pay grade, IMHO.

Great chambering.

I bought a 700 Classic the year it was offered and killed a bear and a handful of deer with it.

Glad you’ve got a keeper. Nice buck too.

I sure wish someone would make brass again, I was able to pick up 200 pieces on GB.

I've got one in a model 7 that stated out as a MS from the custom shop that I CeraKoted and dropped in a Manners. It now weighs under 7lbs scoped and loaded.

Before:



After:



I love the .350 as it rally thumps them, positively my favorite caliber for late afternoon hunts as tracking is always minimal IF at all. My favorite load is the Nosler 225PT at 2730. Lately I've been using Hornady 200 Interlocks at 2850 as the Nolser are really hard to come by and I'm saving what I have for bigger critters. I've got 2 scopes for it ready to go in Warne mounts, Swarovski 1.25-4 sighted in for 250s and a Leupold 2.5-8x36 sighted in for the Hornady 200s. When zero'd for 200 I have no issues hitting a 8" plate at 300 just by using the duplex juncture as an aiming point.

I must be lucky as I've formed a bunch of brass from Rem 7MM (RP Brass) and didn't have to turn necks.

Chuck, do you just cut the 7 Rem Mag case off then run it into the 350 Rem FL die? That's good to know when stuff gets lean..

Nope.. There are lots of guys that do though. I add an additional Redding Form Die step

1. I use a Proxon mini miter saw with a 2" tungsten carbide blade using this jig:

https://elite3ddesign.com/products/350-rem-mag-cut-off-trimming-jig-auto-ejecting-brass-case-trimmer

Really don't "need" it, but it speeds things up, I adjust the length of cut to leave me just enough to trim from the FL sized brass to square the case mouths.

2. I then anneal the chopped brass. I've lost zero brass this way.

3. Chamfer the case neck just enough to ensure rough spots are gone before going into the die.

4. Run brass through a Redding form die.

5. Run brass through a FL RCBS .350RM die with the decapper/expander removed. I use a 0.004" shim under the FL die to keep the case head separation to a minimum.

6. Use a .356" expander mandrel to expand the necks (I get less stretching and run-out with it)

7. Trim, debur and chamfer like normally trimmed brass.

My formed .350RM brass neck thickness is 0.0140" and Rem Factory is 0.0135". Zero issues chambering and accuracy is very good.

Good stuff and info Chuck, thank you. I no longer have a 350 Rem Mag, but I do have a 375/350 in a little custom Mauser about the size of a M7 or 660/600. Brass, so far, is not an issue, but this is good to know. Only paper with it so far too, hoping to get it into the field more.

I use Peterson, ADG & Lapua brass in my 350 Rem Mag

No problem! Good luck with getting out with it!


Great to know! Any issues with neck thickness?

I've got a bunch of new Rem 7mmRM brass left, but it's always good to have other sources.

A few years ago I was thinking about doing a 350 Remington Magnum and 6.5 RM project. I got the 6.5 RM project done, but I never got around to doing the .350 RM project.

I have about 100 pieces .350 Rem Mag brass (most is new but some is once fired, it was fairly scare when I was looking for brass even 20ish years ago).

Found this neat video on YouTube

When I bought my 350 Classic, I tried to find some cases with no luck. I remembered an article in Handloader and I think it was by Layne Simpson about making 350 cases out of 7 Rem mag cases. I found the article and used his technique to make my first loads. Worked like a champ.

Great info Chuck. Thank you.

I’ve used 338, and 7mm RM cases for the 350.

I have an extra full length sizing die. I run the case into the die with the inside expander etc removed. I cut the case a little longer than desired with an hack saw and the trim to length. I have not found that I need to ream the necks.

I suppose I should anneal the necks after forming. I haven’t though.

One thing you "might" run into (I did) with once fired brass is the dreaded bulge in front of the belt. I've never had a problem with converting new brass, but I did get some (very cheap) once fired off a gun forum and had chambering issues with about 5% of the converted brass.

At first I thought it was due to neck thickness, but when comparing "did chamber" VS "wouldn't chamber", the necks with bullet seated were the same diameter. I had the same issue with using some once fired 300WM in my 300WM. Did some research and ended up buying one of these:

https://www.larrywillis.com/

Works like a charm and serves as a gage before I even know I'll have an issue. Again, no problems with new brass, but it might come up with once fired that's been fired in another chamber.

As for annealing... probably (definitely?) not a requirement, but I've got a BC1000 sitting around anyway and I always anneal my 350RM brass just cause it's hard to come by.

This guys video makes it look about as simple as it really is:

Thanks Chuck. I have the Larry Willis die already. That's good info! Appreciate it.

Tag

Hank