Hello, So I have a Mauser action with a complete bolt. I believe it is a FN High-Power Rifle as it's a commercial receiver. I had stripped the shroud and firing pin from the bolt body and was going to remove the shroud from the pin by depressing it and turning the cocking piece 90 degrees but for some reason it wont clear the shroud like it normally would have on different Mauser rifles. So at this point I'm stumped. I had tried search for video's or instructions for this bolt with no success. Also I should note that the bolt shroud is the smooth type with no safety as it's in the trigger group on the side. Thank you for any help!!
Get brutal with it, occasionally the three 'lugs' will get hammered/peened (dry firing? improper hardening? I don't know) and then not want to clear the cut in the shroud.
Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
If the nose of the cocking piece won't clear, it is often the result of too long a spring. If it clears but the CP doesn't want to turn, some persuasion may be needed. Dried up lube, grease, etc., or buggered lugs could be the culprit.
Thank You z1r! It was the spring i just used some pliers and twisted the spring off and away she went! I greatly appreciate your help. I was losing my mind because i have other mausers and have never had that much trouble disassembling bolts from those before.
I know we have resolved my question but I have another! where could i get a replacement firing pin for this rifle i noticed the firing pin is shorter than standard mauser firing pin like i have in my K98.
I’m only guessing it’s commercial because no stripper clip guide and how the bolt was as it was a smooth shroud with no safety. On the side I can see it says FAB but the rest is illegible which leads me to believe it’s for sure a FN mauser. update! i'll work on the pics its having troubles uploading.
I make my own Mauser firing pins from drill rod. It's not all that difficult and you can harden and temper them to suit your own ideas on hardness. It's also possible to cut the tip back about an inch, fabricate a new front section, and TIG weld it onto the original pin. I have scrapped better looking receivers than that one.
The nomenclature described for the subject rifle "Guerre" means "War", a pre WWII marking and earlier postwar, but not not conclusive. The receiver ring internal so-called "C" describing configuration of internal collar, would denominate either early or prewar action.
My 'opinion' an just that, of your pix, suggesting remnants of a clip guide rifle configuration origin. That might indicate a Transitional commercial FN rifle of latter forties which incorporated both solid wall and clip features! They are rare and most all are sidewall unmarked as sold to Husqvarna for build into their branded rifles. All FN commercial sporters from solid sidewall forward utilized the back-swept low scope type which became a functional FN brand feature.
Your pix, more likely indicates to me a welded fill-in sidewall. Z1R would be the expert there. (Also thanks Mr Z for that 'my bad' spelling correction in another Thread. :))
The bottom metal is aftermarket. 'If' the bolt is presumed original, its handle configuration could determine "Guerre" purposed origins or sporting.
Of course the net, net, simply what it is now. Origins perhaps interesting to speculate but value and utility what you make of it more than what is is. Perhaps "origins speaks most practically for "materials" as quality and if bolt original, such too.
Pix below of FN military actions, pre-war top, postwar below. As about same!
Good Luck! Best! John
Last edited by iskra; 03/17/24. Reason: Misreading Post error.
Thank you for all your responses. What you say does makes sense and in all reality I’m just looking not for originality but rather I’m looking to make it into a functional rifle. I have other Military Mausers of different kinds but my main goal is to replace the pin.Hotrod Lincoln I appreciate your info on making myself a pin although I don’t have access to be able to do that! Is it at all possible to find a pin that is similar to the one that is broken or is that my only option is to try to get my current one repaired or make one new entirely?
First, figure out what action & bolt length you have, then find the right length FP. Ebay has them as do lots of parts dealers.
FN24 and Yugo Intermediate actions Action OAL: 8.500 Recvr screws, center to center: 7.620 Bolt body length: 6.115
Standard Length 98: Action OAL: 8.750 Recvr screws, center to center: 7.835 Bolt body length: 6.370
The 1903 Turk and 1909 Peruvian will be as follows: Action OAL: 8.750 Recvr screws, center to center: 7.835 Bolt body length: 6.115
tag
the consolidation of the states into one vast republic, sure to be aggressive abroad and despotic at home, will be the certain precursor of that ruin which has overwhelmed all those that have preceded. Robert E Lee ~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
