Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Alaska SR 1911 issues - need gunsmith

Hi,
I have a ruger SR1911 .45acp, had it for many years and put hundreds of rounds through it. It has always had small issues with ejecting, not common but they happen. My primers have a raised lip on them, high enough to scratch you. I would like to find someone on the peninsula to check it out, does anyone know of a smith in the area? Maybe someone else has had the issues and fixed it?

My guess is some part of the slide is scraping the primer during ejection, so some sort of timing issues? I do keep it cleaned and lubed, thats not an issue

Any help is appreciated

Send it back to Ruger.

I changed out the trigger and springs years ago to try and fix the issue and dont have the original parts

Are you in Alaska?

When you say the spent primers have a lip on them. Like around the firing pin indentation...??? That is generally referred to as cratering. Typically caused by excess pressure.

Yes, on the Peninsula


Imagine sweeping your finger into some peanut butter, as you pull it out you will leave a ridge, that what I have. Its not all around, just one little portion. And its not every round but most of them. The rest of the primer is smooth but not flattened as if it was over pressured.

Over the years I've shot tens of thousands of rounds from many calibers and this is the only time I've seen this. I'll try to put some pics up

Or as often too large of a firing pin hole rather than pressure.

Always send it back first. Most good companys will pay for everything, including shipping.

Are you using factory ammo or reloads? Just wondering if a different primer would make a difference?

Send it back to Ruger.
Be aware that Ruger will replace any parts that have been altered or are not Ruger factory parts. This includes a trigger on a GP100 that had the edges of the trigger face rounded over a bit because the edges wore a hole in my finger.

You may want to contact Andy Hawk here in Anchorage. I haven't personally used his services and I don't know if he works on pistols. His name is frequently recommended when folks are looking for a local gunsmith. He may be the best semi-local option.

Agree about sending it back, wondering is the face of the bolt/slide smooth.

Yup!

I have pics but they are too big and won't load. I dont know how to make adjustments on my iPhone. What are the other options?

EDIT - I resized and got most to load, see below

Reloads but I dont have issues with any other firearms, just this one

Hope the pics about give you a better idea of what I'm dealing with

That's gnarly!




You might have better luck on the handguns forum.
Down a few floors.

A bunch of guys there have been putting with 1911s for decades.
A few professional smith's are there also.
I'd bet it's an easy fix, if you knew what and how, they will guide you.

Thinking about this. You reckon the firing pin spring isn’t retracting the firing pin quick enough such that it digs into the primer as the action opens and the barrel drops down?

And is the firing pin rough or smooth?

Just a thought.

DF

Maybe one of the mods can move the thread for me?

The area with the spring is clean but maybe the spring is faulty, good call!!

Now how do I check it?

I’d get an aftermarket stronger firing pin spring.

DF

And I’d polish the firing pin tip.

DF

I agree about the firing pin spring. If the firing pin tip doesn't look smoothly rounded it might be best to get a new one. If you haven't changed the recoil spring for a while I'd also get a new one of those in addition to the firing pin spring. Total cost is probably less than $20 for Wolff springs and maybe $15 for a firing pin.

These new parts might not solve the issue, but it's a simple and cheap first step that eliminates a bunch of possible problems.

Agree that’s where I’d start. May or may not solve the problem. It’s worth a try.

Firing pin spring at Midway is $4.

DF

Googling the issue seems to beg of new springs for recoil and firing pin as fairly common solution. Bent firing pin tip also could be. And could be deeper too.

I started looking for new pin and spring, what a rabbit hole that turned into!! Multiple diameters and materials I don’t know where to start. I’ll check out wolf soon

I’ll also polish my current pin and see what that does.

Never handled the Ruger.

Assuming it’s a std 1911, using std 1911 parts.

A call to Ruger may be in order.

DF

If it's the original pin, I would look into one of the Wilson Combat titanium firing pins, along with a new spring. Good luck!

I've read confusing things about the titanium springs, some good some bad. My guess is your experience has been positive

EDIT - I meant titanium pins

Did some Google research. Seems the SR 1911 uses a Swartz firing pin safety, like the Kimber and S&W. There is some criticism on this system. The grip safety has to be compressed for a lever to raise the firing pin block so the gun can fire.

There's not any mention of it keeping the firing pin projected too long. The SR also has a light weight titanium firing pin and a strong firing pin spring.

Some advocate replacing that system with a Colt Series 70 firing pin. I don't know about that, reportedly it's one option.

Given the more involved Swartz system, I think I'd call Ruger, maybe even send it back, especially if the new springs didn't work.

DF

Has anyone been firing a lot of +P ammo in it? Ruger uses MEM manufacturing to keep the price down. And there seems to be a lot of people with that same weapon with the same problems. Though thats the first I've seen with the case that screwed up. Don't think its an ejection problem. Send it back to Ruger with the brass and photos.

Phil

I'm not an MIM fan, although proponents say it's as strong as cast or milled steel. I'm not so sure.

And, I'm not sure what MIM part failed, to produce the OP's issue. And I agree with you; I've never seen that before.

To me the best explanation is the firing pin staying out too long, gouging the primer as the barrel drops down, unlocking the action. It seems the primer is scooped out by the protruding firing pin. I bet the scooped out part is at 12:00, at the top of the round. May be hard to prove that after the empty case has been ejected.

To the OP, let us know what you find and how you fix it.

Curious.

DF


Edited to add, what if the OP marked the round with a magic marker, chambered the round, positioning the mark at 12:00, fired the round and observed if the gouged out part corresponds to the 12:00 mark. Bet it does.

That would be good info for Ruger to know. I'd like to know that, too.

What is MIM or MEM?

I thought about marking the case and its a good idea, I'll polish today and get out to shoot again early next week

Metal Injection Molding (MIM) is a newer process of making small metal parts. Google for better explanation.

Reported to be as strong as milled/cast, I’ve had MIM parts break. I’m not that impressed.

Not sure MIM failure caused your issue. Not sure how many MIM parts Ruger uses and in the SR 1911.

DF

I have two Ruger SR's and neither is a shwartz set-up, both are standard series 70.

That would good news if it was mine.

For OP, I’d check to see if it’s Swartz or 70 type.

My check off list would be firing pin not retracting. I’d look at the firing pin spring, check firing pin for slick and smooth and freely moving back and forth.

If Swartz safety, I may send it back. Don’t know much about that, never examined one.

If some Swartz and some 70, wonder if they changed and if so, when. Wish I knew more about the Swartz.

DF

Ruger use's mim disconnectors and sears, I replaced both of mine.

Sear is part#1 disconnector is #2 trigger bow is#3

Bogtrotter, if SR 1911’s are reportedly Swartz and can retrofitted with a 70 firing pin, were your two converted or 70 type from Ruger.

DF

Edited to note you answered my question before I posted it, while I was writing it,

Can you see any MIM failure from that system that would jam the firing pin in extended position?

DF

Correct Metal Injection Molding (MIM). The only 1911 I have now is a S&W stainless 1911, never had a problem with it. Came with two mags, but you can't ever find them for sale anywhere. I purchased a few Wilson Combat 47D mags a while back but have never tried them out yet. For lube I use a stainless anti-static grease type stuff Sinclair came out with a few years back. Just a little tube but seems to last forever. Just message a little into the metal and reassemble.

Phil

I’m still a bit confused how the Swartz system works.

Reportedly it has a structure that attaches to the grip safety and when the grip safety is compressed it moves the firing pin block to allow the firing pin to advance.

That’s apparently separate from the disconnector and sear.

DF

Read where S&W 1911 is Swartz. Not sure how many MIM parts S&W uses in these guns.

What’s your experience with that system?

DF

They are OEM for several manufacturers.
Pretty sure Springfield uses them.

I think most series 70 guns of current manufacture

The springfield I had was not, and neither is my brother in law's. Haven't had a new S&W aprt so I couldn't say one way or another I worked on 1911's for 30 years mainly trigger jobs.

I prefer my single action 44 mag... I saved those photos and enlarged them. Don't see how anything could cause that mess. The first photo doesn't show the primer as having been pierced. The second photo though when enlarged does show what looks like a straight gouged tool mark. Don't see what could have caused that. Wondering if somehow that cartridge had two primers installed.

Phil

GG, don’t think you could seat two primers.

OP’s primers don’t look like a pressure thing. The primer looks gouged. Only thing that could do that, from my thinking, would be the firing pin.

And how could it do that if the firing pin spring had retracted it after the hit. Seems it would have to be jammed fully extended or somehow not retracted quick enough.

DF

Not from just being a mim part, but if it was me I'd like to se the disconector, pin and do compression test on the firing pin spring.

MIM. Junk as far as I"m concerned. Its said its good. I"ve not been impressed. Make the part cheaper. Sell the gun for more.

Primer Smear... have been searching on this for a couple days now without much firm descriptions or fixes. But anyhow this is as close as anything else...

Link

Seems like all agree it's caused by a weak ejector or firing pin spring. Or a not so good slide fit.

Primer Smear, I must admit, I've seen some off-center firing pin strikes, but nothing like this Ruger where it looks like it tried to spoon out the primer.

I'm still thinking a lot of +P ammo having been run through it.


Phil

GG,

Glad you came up with the appropriate terminology.

DF

Edited to add, good stuff on your link. Hammer spring too strong, unlocking barrel/slide timing, firing pin spring strength, firing pin moving freely in slide, action spring strength. Lots of variables. Good detective work by a persistent sleuth may be called for.

I converted an SR1911 to .45 Super, and one of the "problems" that immediately surfaced was primers that appeared to have been sheared by the firing pin hole.


Same load, different FP and spring


I saw that the primer was flowing back into firing pin hole, so weighed the firing pin. It was significantly lighter than a steel FP, so I replaced it with Wilson "bulletproof" pin and an extra strength spring. Problem was solved. A little more tweaking of mainspring weight and primers appeared normal. Pressure was not excessive, velocity is in order for a .45 Super, and ejection is about 6 to 8 feet, less with a comp.

Maybe “primer smear” is more common than previously discussed and documented.

Reckon there’s a simple solution or are we looking at a bigger, more complicated timing issue?

DF

I polished the firing pin and replace the slide spring with the lightest one I had. I hope that works and won't get to shoot it till next week sometime

I’m trying to figure how a lighter action spring is gonna help. Looks like quicker unlocking slide/barrel would make primer smear worse.

What’s your thinking on that?

DF

With a lighter spring the slide will move rearward with less resistance, quicker.

When the hammer is dropped, the pin will be forced forward, striking the primer. The pin will retract because of its spring (I will get a heavier one if this doesn’t work) and the slide will be pushed back from the force of the ignition.

With a lighter spring in the slide it will take less pressure to be forced reward which means it will be moving faster

The ignition is slightly under my control but my reloads are midrange and I don’t plan on changing that part of the equation.

I’m not a smith, did I miss something? I’m using what I have on hand and still looking for another pin spring combo just in case this does not work

Look forward to your follow up report.

DF

Too light of a recoil spring does allow the slide to move faster, but it can beat the begeezes out of the frame.

If it works I will experiment with heavier springs until the issue returns

Yeah me too.

It’ll be about 5 days till I get back to the range so I have that much time to toss ideas around

Recoil buffer may help protect the frame.

DF

I would also check the bolt face, make sure it is square to the bolt.

Bolt face square with the bolt?

1911?

DF

I have never seen a primer ripped like that before. Are those factory rounds or reloads ?? I'm thinking the spring to the firing pin is weak and not pulling the pin out of the way as it's ejecting.

kwg

The most effective way to control unlocking on a 1911 will be to increase the mainspring (Hammer spring) weight and use a Flat firing pin stop. This increases the mechanical advantage the hammer will have over the slide, keeping it in a locked position for a few additional milliseconds, allowing pressure to drop to a safe level. This will reduce slide velocity and frame battering. A heavy recoil spring will just slam the slide shut harder, maybe causing lug battering. Muzzle dip can also occur from a too-robust closing slide, then accuracy will also suffer. Recoil springs in a 1911 have minimal impact on unlocking.

The primer swipe you're seeing is caused by the very light firing pin allowing the primer cup to be extruded into the firing pin hole by pressure before the slide has unlocked, then the link begins swinging the barrel down, shearing the extruded portion. A steel firing pin resists this by virtue of weight and the increased resistance to inertia from the primer cup being pushed back by pressure. The extra strength Firing pin spring will decrease the possibility of a "slam-fire" if the pistol is dropped on its muzzle.

Your firing pin is not retracting fast enough. First, take a 1/8" punch and press the the firing pin in from the rear with the slide locked back. It should move freely with no drag. Maybe a bent pin, broken spring, or safety is dragging, maybe just some crud in there. If it's al free, put a heaver FP spring in it.

Bingo!

And, *I* would replace the titanium pin, but that's just me, some people like them.

I had the flat pin stop in and just replaced with the rounded one after I started this thread. I'll keep it handy at the range and swap again if needed. I also have some buffers I can put in.

I'm ordering the wilson bullet proof pin and spring to match, worst case scenario I have spare parts

EDIT - Wilson wants $30 to ship one pin and one spring up to Alaska, I'll need to call them in the morning and see if they can adjust that for me...

Hope it works out.

Something I just thought of, have you changed primers, possibly to one of softer material?

Vic in VA has it figured out, I think. Pay close attention to him, he's schmart!

I would also check the diameter of the firing pin, as oversized firing pin holes exist, and an oversized firing pin is the only way to mitigate that. They DO make them. I have changed out ALL my titanium firing pins for steel, too, I don't like them. Everyone went to titanium to avoid having to go "Series '80", so they can pass drop tests.
That's all a load of crap, steel is the way to go.

Here's some to choose from, I've no doubt other peddlers have their own versions.
https://egwguns.com/1911-parts/slide-parts/

I use a variety of name brand primers, all of them were purchased in the 90's

Brain fart, fueled by a few to many rum and cokes. I was thinking of a problem I had with one of my rifles years ago.

Is a rum-fueled BF a bad thing?

Not in my world, but at my age they're liable to turn into brain diareaha!

You did that just to make some of us old farts feel better about ourselves.

Ha! And thanks.

DF

I went to the range today and shot about 80 rounds with the lighter slide spring. The lip was less pronounced which is a good thing but problem not solved yet. My replacement heavier pin and spring is in the mail since saturday and should be here whenever usps feels like getting it to me....

I did mark the cases prior to shooting and the lip is at the 12:00 position, does that mean anything?

Figured it’d be at 12:00, on top which is about the only place it could be as the barrel unlocks and drops down before firing pen can retract.

Google firing pin stop plate and how different ones can affect slide opening and timing.

DF

I had the rounded stop plate in there this trip. Previously I had the flat one

I just remembered I have buffers but forgot to put them in, I dont know if it would have made a difference in a commander though

Could you tell any difference, round vs flat stop plates?

DF

I didnt test them side by side but on the second test with the lighter springs, the primers had less of a scoop.

That gun have a titanium firing pin?

DF

I dont know what it is? The new one will be in this evening, I'll weigh them and maybe see a big difference

https://www.ruger.com/products/sr1911CommanderStyle/models.html


Skeletonized hammer and titanium firing pin for faster lock time.

Right away I noticed the new pin is shorter, I didnt measure it.

The new pin and spring worked perfectly!! The old pin is about 3/16" longer than the new one, I think I may trim some off and try it again to see what happens

Now on a few rounds the slide will not go into battery, stops about 1/4" or so short and take some pushing to get it to go. Sometimes I remove the mag put the round back in and rack the slide, this works fine on the round that just jammed up. It does this with all magazines. I'm thinking something needs to be polished? Anyone have ideas??

Go back to the standard recoil spring.

I tried 5 springs plus the original, the original was the worst performance with the most jams.

No advice for the feeding issues?