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Lots of questions. I will say a T&G floor is not typically a DIY project. However I get that you want it done right and are willing to learn.
I will also say that a real T&G floor is not practical in every home as a retrofit project.
Subfloor is plywood, good, T&G? How thick? Size of the joists? 24"O.C. is ok if the joists are sized properly, the subfloor should be 3/4" T&G.
How big is the area? 1/2" out of level is not a big deal in a large room, different story in a bedroom
Realistically forget level, the goal is to make it flat.
Is the new floor to be laid parallel or perpendicular to the joists?
Is the floor end matched in random lengths?
I would make sure the subfloor is screwed down. I would be concerned with fasteners holding in plywood.
Do you have many transitions to deal with?
Any stairs?
For those without thumbs, it's s Garden fookin Island, not Hawaii
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If the floor joists are lower under the walls, and joists are 24" apart , the walls are carrying too much weight for the 24" joists can support. I am not sure , it is hard to tell with a post . I dont do all that many hardwood floors anymore , since the laminated stuff became the craze. There are some things you need to make sure of.. If the joists can support the weight that the wall is bearing, it may be settled after all those years. It is very hard to prop a joist up from underneath if it is low and holding weight. That would mean you would have to raise the joist, the wall , the ceiling joist and rafters.. If the floor is lower just around the walls, it seems they settled. If they are done settling, you can just put a 4" strip of plywood around the where the subfloor is low , screw and glue it and you should be good. Again, i am not sure exactly what the problem is so I am guessing a little. If it helps, it is rare to take out carpet to install hardwood floor and not have repairs. We always have a few low and high joists. If it is only 1/8", we dont care, but 1/2" is not good. Pictures might help. Sorry, I made a mistake. It's about 1/4" variance instead of 1/2". I went back and corrected my post. It's late and I wasn't thinking through what I was typing. Not that it's great, but it's not quite as bad as 1/2".
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If you have access to the joists from below you can use Jack's to raise the low spots and sister another joist in , conversely you can cut a high one, stack your wood on it till its level and sister that one . Only had one floor that extremely out of whack but that did the trick. Less extreme ares you can just run shims between the joists and deck and re screw.
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Lots of questions. I will say a T&G floor is not typically a DIY project. However I get that you want it done right and are willing to learn.
I will also say that a real T&G floor is not practical in every home as a retrofit project.
Subfloor is plywood, good, T&G? How thick? Size of the joists? 24"O.C. is ok if the joists are sized properly, the subfloor should be 3/4" T&G.
How big is the area? 1/2" out of level is not a big deal in a large room, different story in a bedroom
Realistically forget level, the goal is to make it flat.
Is the new floor to be laid parallel or perpendicular to the joists?
Is the floor end matched in random lengths?
I would make sure the subfloor is screwed down. I would be concerned with fasteners holding in plywood.
Do you have many transitions to deal with?
Any stairs? Subfloor is 3/4" plywood, but it's not T&G. I don't know what the size of the joists are. I didn't measure the joists under the floor. Possibly 2x10"s? Here's a picture. I have the measurements of the rooms, but don't have them infront of me. It's two fairly large bedrooms and a hallway. I meant to say 1/4" variance, not 1/2" above. The new floor is going to be laid perpendicular to the joists. I'm not sure what exactly you mean by the floor end matched in random lengths. I did go through and ran a couple of screws in each sheet of subfloor. Some of them needed to be tightened up from the nails already. So I've fixed those and then put a couple of screws in the pieces that didn't need any help. The stairs are already hardwood, as is the lower level. I'll just have to match this up to the top of the stairs, but I don't need to go up or down any stairs.
Last edited by slowr1der; 03/23/24.
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Knocking down the high spots with a sander helps a ton, especially when you are talking a 1/4" max.
A layer of tar paper, or two, helps more.
Self leveler is a problem with nailed in floors, unless it is mixed with latex or acrylic, as it cracks when nailed and sounds "crunchy" under the floor. Prep work is what you pay professionals for, the installation is simple.
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After seeing the photo, you are over reacting. That looks like good construction. The plywood joints need to be blocked to eliminate movement. There are foam type rolls you buy to put on the plywood before the flooring. This is a place not to go cheap. It will make your floor quiet and act as a moisture barrier. It’s about 1/8 thick. Watch some YouTube videos to build your confidence. It’s pretty easy! Just get your first row straight. Allowing for expansion against the walls are where people make mistakes. I’ve been in the construction trades for over 45 years. There are several here that have the knowledge based on what I’ve read.
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One thing not covered here is baseboards. If this is a low budget job you put the baseboards over the floor once installed. The higher end job. Which I prefer, you put the base in first. Install your floor, then go over the base with shoe mounding. It looks nicer. If you ever want to take up the flooring , the base stays. I did a job a few years ago where the people had me put in 1x8 pre primed base. In the old days this was more common as the stacked wall treatments on top. Like bead board. Just think it through. One thing to remember, if you put the base over the flooring, the gaps between the floor really show. With shoe mounding, you can push the mounding tighter to the floor to eliminate gaps.
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Sorry , I misspelled molding.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Sorry , I misspelled molding. I use shoe mold unless the customer asks that the base be removed.
God bless Texas----------------------- Old 300 I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull Its not how you pick the booger.. but where you put it !! Roger V Hunter
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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It’s hard to tell from the photo, but to me that does not look like 3/4 plywood, looks like 1/2.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Give a man a welfare check, a forty ounce malt liquor, a crack pipe, an Obama phone, free health insurance. and some Air Jordan's and he votes Democrat for a lifetime.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Give a man a welfare check, a forty ounce malt liquor, a crack pipe, an Obama phone, free health insurance. and some Air Jordan's and he votes Democrat for a lifetime.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Also make sure your exterior doors, if you have any, will operate properly with the increased height.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Give a man a welfare check, a forty ounce malt liquor, a crack pipe, an Obama phone, free health insurance. and some Air Jordan's and he votes Democrat for a lifetime.
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Campfire Outfitter
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[quote=cumminscowboy]The house was built in a county with both building codes and permits were issued. It's in a large subdivision and it seems like the majority of the houses in the neighborhood are all built the same way. I'll have to take some pictures tomorrow to post. Sounds like Ryan home?!?!
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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For a smaller job, one of these multi-tools will do the casings and they're useful for many other things. There are lots of models, both corded and battery, to choose from. They're a lot cheaper than a dedicated casing saw, too. There are lots of different blades you can get to match the job.
“In a time of deceit telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” ― George Orwell
It's not over when you lose. It's over when you quit.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 34,172 |
Lots of questions. I will say a T&G floor is not typically a DIY project. However I get that you want it done right and are willing to learn.
I will also say that a real T&G floor is not practical in every home as a retrofit project.
Subfloor is plywood, good, T&G? How thick? Size of the joists? 24"O.C. is ok if the joists are sized properly, the subfloor should be 3/4" T&G.
How big is the area? 1/2" out of level is not a big deal in a large room, different story in a bedroom
Realistically forget level, the goal is to make it flat.
Is the new floor to be laid parallel or perpendicular to the joists?
Is the floor end matched in random lengths?
I would make sure the subfloor is screwed down. I would be concerned with fasteners holding in plywood.
Do you have many transitions to deal with?
Any stairs? Subfloor is 3/4" plywood, but it's not T&G. I don't know what the size of the joists are. I didn't measure the joists under the floor. Possibly 2x10"s? Here's a picture. I have the measurements of the rooms, but don't have them infront of me. It's two fairly large bedrooms and a hallway. I meant to say 1/4" variance, not 1/2" above. The new floor is going to be laid perpendicular to the joists. I'm not sure what exactly you mean by the floor end matched in random lengths. I did go through and ran a couple of screws in each sheet of subfloor. Some of them needed to be tightened up from the nails already. So I've fixed those and then put a couple of screws in the pieces that didn't need any help. The stairs are already hardwood, as is the lower level. I'll just have to match this up to the top of the stairs, but I don't need to go up or down any stairs. Is that water line something you did as a repair, or is that throughout the house? That is some unreliable schit.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Give a man a welfare check, a forty ounce malt liquor, a crack pipe, an Obama phone, free health insurance. and some Air Jordan's and he votes Democrat for a lifetime.
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 18,910 |
Lots of questions. I will say a T&G floor is not typically a DIY project. However I get that you want it done right and are willing to learn.
I will also say that a real T&G floor is not practical in every home as a retrofit project.
Subfloor is plywood, good, T&G? How thick? Size of the joists? 24"O.C. is ok if the joists are sized properly, the subfloor should be 3/4" T&G.
How big is the area? 1/2" out of level is not a big deal in a large room, different story in a bedroom
Realistically forget level, the goal is to make it flat.
Is the new floor to be laid parallel or perpendicular to the joists?
Is the floor end matched in random lengths?
I would make sure the subfloor is screwed down. I would be concerned with fasteners holding in plywood.
Do you have many transitions to deal with?
Any stairs? Subfloor is 3/4" plywood, but it's not T&G. I don't know what the size of the joists are. I didn't measure the joists under the floor. Possibly 2x10"s? Here's a picture. I have the measurements of the rooms, but don't have them infront of me. It's two fairly large bedrooms and a hallway. I meant to say 1/4" variance, not 1/2" above. The new floor is going to be laid perpendicular to the joists. I'm not sure what exactly you mean by the floor end matched in random lengths. I did go through and ran a couple of screws in each sheet of subfloor. Some of them needed to be tightened up from the nails already. So I've fixed those and then put a couple of screws in the pieces that didn't need any help. The stairs are already hardwood, as is the lower level. I'll just have to match this up to the top of the stairs, but I don't need to go up or down any stairs. Is that water line something you did as a repair, or is that throughout the house? That is some unreliable schit. Yep. I would replace as much of that as I could with PEX.
The last time that bear ate a lawyer he had the runs for 33 days!
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Joined: Jun 2004
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 34,172 |
For a smaller job, one of these multi-tools will do the casings and they're useful for many other things. There are lots of models, both corded and battery, to choose from. They're a lot cheaper than a dedicated casing saw, too. There are lots of different blades you can get to match the job. Yup, they work just as well, just quit a bit slower. If this were my project, all the base would be removed, nails pulled and labeled . Less time and money involved than buying base shoe, priming base shoe, painting base shoe, installing base shoe .
Last edited by steve4102; 03/24/24.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Give a man a welfare check, a forty ounce malt liquor, a crack pipe, an Obama phone, free health insurance. and some Air Jordan's and he votes Democrat for a lifetime.
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Campfire Regular
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OP
Campfire Regular
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Knocking down the high spots with a sander helps a ton, especially when you are talking a 1/4" max.
A layer of tar paper, or two, helps more.
Self leveler is a problem with nailed in floors, unless it is mixed with latex or acrylic, as it cracks when nailed and sounds "crunchy" under the floor. Prep work is what you pay professionals for, the installation is simple. This is my biggest concern at this point, so I really don't know what to do. I'm wondering if I should just cut the subfloor up and try to replace it in these spots, possibly shimming it.
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Is that water line something you did as a repair, or is that throughout the house?
That is some unreliable schit. Throughout the house. We had to have the pipes replaced 20+ years ago because it originally had Quest pipes. I didn't do that work.
Last edited by slowr1der; 03/24/24.
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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My Wife, and I worked a month on a 12x16 ft floor in our cabin.
These premises insured by a Sheltie in Training ,--- and Cooey.o "May the Good Lord take a likin' to you"
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