Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Speedy sleeve

Does anyone have any experience using them?

Whats the application?

lol

Keep it clean.

Pitted rear axle & seal leaking, or rear pinion crush sleeve ?

WE used a lot of them on right angle gear boxes when they started to leak oil. Starting out with a new seal & speed sleeve, we would get about one year out of them before wearing thru and leaking oil again. These were used on gear boxes that ran 24/7 @ around 4000 rpm

Similar situation in the plant I’m at.

Front crank seal on the Toyota. we bought the 04 for a 1000 a few years ago because it was leaking from the front seal. He said the mechanic told him the crank had a groove where the seal rode, I figured the mechanic just didn't want to redo the seal. Turns out he was right and not BSing, So now its either a speedy sleeve or a new crank.

Used them on small block chevy front timing cover seal, worked well.

They work fine, glue it on with some thread lock. Don't beat it on, heat it up in the oven so it slips on.

Thanks, when I get a few days, I'll get the the crank measured and order one.

Loctite "Sleeve & Bearing" lock/sealant...

Should have measured it when I had it apart last time.

I use them on axels they work good , get a new seal freeze the part if u can boil water for the sleeve...hurry no up and get it on there !

If the lip seal outside diameter bore allows, just position your new seal so the wear portion does not run in the old groove. A lip seal need not be bottomed in it's bore. But if you need to sleeve it, you need to sleeve it. If you wish you can pm me for tips in removing an old sleeve in a tight area where you can't peen it.
Follow the instructions on the box exactly, do not use heat or cold to "help" sleeve installation, rub your hand around the shaft to feel for burrs or nicks. Stone them lightly with a fine stone. If you feel you must use a sealant, use something old school that is non hardening like Permatex #2. If there is no clearance problem, leave the drive flange on the new sleeve when you are done. If the drive cap is too short to position the sleeve properly (most Cat engines)...please, take the time to build a well fitting extension. If you are going to do more similar jobs, fabricate your extension to use all thread on your extension and get in the habit of pushing the sleeve on with threads, nothing wrong with a dead blow hammer for one-off jobs. If you have a choice, use a good brand, OEM or Chicago Rawhide, SKF etc. Gawd knows what kind of chinky [bleep] is out there now.

thank you, I'll PM you if I have any questions when I get the time to do it.

Yep, that's where I've seen them work successfully. Not a bad idea.

Amazing that a neoprene seal can wear such a groove in forged steel that it will no longer seal, but it does.

alot of cranks are cast (not forged) and vary in hardness...

I used one on a 22RE and it worked fine.
I have another 22RE that I could part with if you need it.

Fully aware of that & can tell the diff. But you are correct.

It's the suspended particulates of carbon silicates and suspended metals in the lube oil that embed themselves in the lip seal material, or so the lube engineers tell us. That's why Cat Duo Cone seals don't wear out, one, they fit so flat particulates can't come between the faces...two, they are so hard they will scratch glass.