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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 119
Campfire Member
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OP
Campfire Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 119 |
Going to pick up a new rifle soon (Ruger M77 MKII in 260). Have a Leupold Vari X II 2-7 to put on it. Don't want to botch a nice scope. How difficult is it to get it done "right"?<P>Dave
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 26
Campfire Greenhorn
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Campfire Greenhorn
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 26 |
Dave:<P>Welcome to the campfire.<P>Mounting a scope correctly is not too difficult if you have a little time, the right tools, and are careful.<P>First, make sure that all of your hardware matches up, bases to receiver, etc. With Gun Scrubber or similar solvent, clean all of the hardware, especially the screws and the holes in the receiver. I like to use Q-Tips to really get into the holes.<P>Next, mount your rifle on a cleaning rack or padded vise. Place a drop (just a drop) of LockTite on the threads of each base screw, and mount the bases. I like to torque down the screws to mfrs. specs or 15 lbs. Definitely do NOT overtighten.<P>Mount the rings on the bases, using a collimator (two cylinders that end in points-the points face each other, and when the bottom rings are exactly lined up, the points will be almost touching). Get it as close as you can. Then using a 1" diameter iron bar (like a dumbbell shaft) wrapped in 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper, lap those rings until the scope makes full contact with the interior circumference of the ring bottom. You DON'T want to torque the scope at all when tightening the rings, so lap until you get complete contact and no gap between the ring and the scope.<P>Place the scope in the rings and snug up the ring screws softly. Now check for eye relief and reticle leveling. Shoulder that rifle over and over until everything is just right! Remove one ring screw at a time, LockTite and retighten in an X pattern. Recheck for reticle leveling.<P>This is by no means a comprehensive procedure, but this will get you there if everything goes as planned. I'm sure more help is coming on this Board.<P>Good luck,<P>Jack
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 10,353
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 10,353 |
I would agree with the above except for 2 points...I would not use lock tite, In my experience I have never had to use it, as long as my screws are torqued sufficiently you should have no problem. (No problems for me for the last 12 years...) Here is a little trick I use. After aligning your scope rings... take 1 piece of scotch tape and place on the top and bottom of the scope rings. This will give you a snug fit when you tighten and not mar the scope. If you want to pay someone to put them on, I would not pay more than $20.
Whatever you are willing to put up with, is exactly what you will have.
When your ship comes in. ... make sure you are willing to unload it.
PAYPAL, sucks and I will never use them again. I recommend you do the same.
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 18
New Member
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New Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 18 |
I agree with both posts. I have used LockTite and not used LockTite and never had any problems. The LockTite can increase your chances of stripping a screw if you want to remove the scope. But the extra protection it provides against anything loosening up after a while is worth the piece of mind, to me.<P>I also agree with the tape recommendation. I like elecrtrical tape.<P>Good advice here.<P>Teach
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 184
Campfire Member
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Campfire Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 184 |
perhaps a thread sealer instead of a lock formula would work better here. 757
Pursue Perfection
Capture Excellence
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 58,806 Likes: 64
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 58,806 Likes: 64 |
Lap the Ruger rings. BUT before you do,call Brownell's and upgrade the cap screws to allen head. The adhesive isn't needed........
Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 8
New Member
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New Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 8 |
While all the above information is correct and clear, I have found that the best mounting system out there,IMHO, is the Burris Signature rings and bases. I prefer to use Burris dual dovetail bases. Signature rings have an inner ring made of some plastic/polymer which is what actually grips the scope. They hold the scope solidly in place and WILL NOT mar the finish like a metal ring can. Ring alignment need no be perfect as the inner ring is allowed to float in the metal outer ring. All these features ass up to a solid, non-marring system that will not bind the scope. Does it get any better????????<P>By the way, I like to use Loctite 243 (the blue color) on my bases.<P>(No, I don't work for Burris....just a very pleased customer!!!)<P>visit me at.....<P><BR><A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/hogshooter_2000" TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/hogshooter_2000</A><P><BR>[This message has been edited by vodoo groundhog kilr (edited January 28, 2001).]<p>[This message has been edited by vodoo groundhog kilr (edited January 28, 2001).]
"OOOOOOHHHHHH I hates varmints!!!!" - Yosemitie Sam<P><A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/hogshooter_2000" TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/hogshooter_2000</A>
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 58,806 Likes: 64
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 58,806 Likes: 64 |
Voodoo,I concur on the posilign rings,I wasn't aware of their availability for the Ruger77's? I like them,because a large increase in elvation can be employed,with differing eccentrics. An extra 20MOA,is nice.........
Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
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