All 3 of mine are full length bedded.................
Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
Thanks for the pics Stick. That bottom rifle looks readdy for business with the woodland camo finish. The second one would get me laughed out of deer camp though.
Hog Wild, thats a fine looking rifle. What kind of stcok is that and who did the paint job? The alloy Talley bases and rings are two piece but I thing that each ring and base are one piece instead of two. I hadn't thought much about the 260 but it would work great for what I'm going to be doing. I've never been a 6.5 fan, no particular reason why I've just never used any 6.5 caliber rifle, but a fried has a SS M7 in 260 and it's an accurate rifle that worked great on two whitetails this year with handloaded 129 grain Hornadys. I'm building this rifle for deer hunting the coyotes will be in the off season for practice and to keep cabin fever at bay during the winter months. I'm not 100% sure about the #1 contour yet. I want accuracy first and light weight second so I may go with a #2 contour. I've e-mailed Pac Nor and asked about the weight difference between a #1 and #2 so I'm waiting to see what they say before I decide. I'm wondering what the contour of Rem's Mountain rifle barrel is? I have one in 270 and like it a lot. In fact it does everything I need as far as deer hunting goes I just need a new rifle. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Thanks for the bedding tip, if I go with a #1 I'll full length bed it. Now you've got me thinking about the 260. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> A 100 grain Partition @ 3400 fps would be big medicine for any deer that walks. What kid of scope is she wearing?
Here's a pic of a 284 win on a Rem Ti action with a lot of modifications. BBl is a Kreiger FW pattern @ 21" The stock is a Bansner. The scope is the 6x42 that you asked about. Total weight as seen here is 5 lb. 9 oz. w/scope. <snip> JimF
Jim,
Sweet rifle! Are those low or medium rings you have there? Talley lightweights? Thanks.
The stock is made by Lone Wolf and is called the Summit. It weighs about 16oz from the factory with pad and studs. With bedding, mine weighs 19 oz. The color is called Granite Green and is a a factory color from Lone Wolf. The forearm isn't as stiff as I would like. In fact, I went to a 0.050" gap between barrel and forearm (was 0.020") to ensure there wasn't contact with the barrel while using a sling. I've had no problems with barrel contact since going with the larger gap. In fact, my first group through the barrel after opening the gap was in the .3s......and it was a fireform load.
In the Nosler manual, the top velocity for a 100g Partition from a 260 Rem is 3,365 fps (24" barrel). I would guess 3,300 would be more realistic for an accurate 260 load than the 3,400 you mentioned previously. (My 260 is actually an Ackley version so I might get 50 fps more velocity than the standard 260) You probably need a 284 case to jump up to 3,400+ fps.
The scope is a Sightron 3-12x42 at 13 oz and the mounts are made by Control at about 4 oz. I have had no problems with the scope. One thing to note, the scope doesn't have an AO. Since the purchase, I've determined the factory set the focus at 100 yds as they figure most people will use 12x for target shooting. In a phone conversation, Sightron offered to set the focus at any distance I wanted for free.
Talley LW "low".......They could sure stand to be lower than they are for my personal taste. For the upcoming 6.5x284, the bases will be milled ~~ .100 lower. Then the screw holes redrilled and shouldered for 8-40 screws. (definitely a PITA).
Well, I am in the middle of a SA SUCKS project. I kind of changed my mind in mid stream, but here it goes...... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
I originally started out buying a SUCKS ADL in .308 with the idea of carting it off to Pacnor for the treatment to a 270 WSM. Well, then Remmy came out with the SPS series in 270 WSM and through me a curve. Soooooo, I sold the .308 and bought the SPS in 270WSM (which came in yesterday BTW).
Not quite as dumb as it sounds. Money wise, if it shoots in the factory metal, I should come out way ahead. If I don't like the way it shoots and send it off for the Pacnor treatment, it will not have cost me much more. I paid $325 for the .308 and $450 for the 270WSM. Part of the Pacnor treatment is $100 to convert the bolt face to mag dimensions. So, if my math is correct, I am about at the point of the mag bolt face in the factory config.
Not to fear, I have a Micky stock to bolt it to. I also just bought a TI SA stock on ebay. So I have two options which I am going to explore : the BDL SA Micky and the ADL TI SA. Don't know which one I am going to like more, as I don't have the TI yet. Which ever one wins, the other will be on the blocks.
I have a set of one piece Talley's and am leaning towards a VXII 3x9 Matte to top it off, maybe in a 50mm, not sure yet. The 50mm is only about an 1.7 ounces heavier than the 40mm, which is pretty trim at 12 ounces.
I like the granite finish on the pic. I am going to try to put a granite finish on my chosen stock, in the form of the Krylon Stone Fleck, then seal it off with the Matte Clear Coat. Schitt looks real nice and the local Wally's and Lowes has a good supply and variety of colors. Leaning towards either the green like the pic or the lite grey.
When I get all of the parts, I may just lay'm out and snap a few pics of before then when I get it done, after.
I think the TI stock might be lighter than the Micky Sporter that I have so it might have the edge going in. Like to keep the whole package in the 7 lb range ??? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />
Should be one butt kicking combo when I get it done.
Thanks for the thumb's up. I appreciate it. Pretty fond of her myself. After deer season is over, I'm probably going to send her back to the smith and let him full-length bed her, per your advice, to see if it will tighten up the groups any. Not that she is shooting poorly as is. Not really sure how well a rifle this light should average.....
John
If my people, who are called by my name, will humble themselves and pray and seek my face and turn from their wicked ways, then I will hear from heaven, and I will forgive their sin and will heal their land. 2 Chronicles 7:14
Is that a Super Sling she's wearin? I bought one of those a few years ago and liked it so much all my ladies wear them now. I've thought about a 250 Savage a few times. Saw a Rem 700 Classic in 250 a couple years back and almost bought it. Let me know how it does when you finally bloody it.
Yup, a super sling. Pretty light, and really like the way they function. Hadn't given a whole lot of thought to the .250 Savage, except the improved version. The 16% increase in capacity, coupled with being loaded to modern pressures in the 54,000 CUP range should be a substantial increase in performance, out of a very compact case. I'll let you know more after I get to use the chronograph a bunch. Another one I've thought of would be a .25 Souper (.25-08) Ackley Improved. That should be a pretty good performer, too, perhaps just a little behind the .25-284, but probably not as easy to produce brass for, now that 6.5-284 brass is commercially available. The .260 would surely not be a bad choice either. I have one in a Browning Low Wall. Only shot one little whitetail with it but it was DRT (dead right there). Used the 129gr Hornady. I just nearly had my red rifle chambered in .260 instead of the .250 improved.
John
If my people, who are called by my name, will humble themselves and pray and seek my face and turn from their wicked ways, then I will hear from heaven, and I will forgive their sin and will heal their land. 2 Chronicles 7:14
Highcountry, Before you buy that fleck paint, do a search online for "Zolatone". It's an extremely tough paint and comes in a variety of colors. You can purchase the paint and a spray applicator (disposable model) online and have one of the toughest and best looking finishes available. John
I can't remember who it was, but someone had posted that they had used the Krylon Stone Fleck paint. However, in order to make it durable, they had to cover it with a matte, clear coat.
They claimed that it held up pretty well.
It is cheap enough at $7 a can that I am going to experiment with it (not on a stock at first) to see what's up with it.
Plus, I will definately check out what you've suggested.
the krylon stuff does work but it takes about a day to fully harden. before you shoot a color over it [that is what i did] or the clear coat you want to knock it down with some sandpaper. the stone effect is like 8 grit sandpaper. knocking it down gives it a nice pebbly[sp?] finish. dont be afraid to use a whole can of clearcoat. it really is a matte clear. woofer
"I would build one again, if it were not for my 350RM (grin)."
1) any special stock prep ? 2) what grit sandpaper did you use to "knock it down ? 3) I have been looking at a bunch of different matte clear coats....any suggestions ?? 4) got any pics of the finished product !!!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />
Good idea with spraying over top of the finish with a color spray, had not thought of that. The colors that come in the fleck were not too bad, I was going to leave it stock color, with just a matte clear over top. Now you've opened up some interesting possibilities !!!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
just prep like you would a car. clean it. thinner etc. i used scotchbrite to scuff. make sure there are no "shiny spots left on the surface. clean it again. mask off inletting and pad. remove studs. this paint is ROUGH after it is sprayed. when i mask the pad i cheat up on the stock a bit so the paint doesn't go right to the edge of the pad. you can remove the pad also, whichever you like. hang and spray. this stuff comes out like a 4 year olds sneeze with a sinus infection. you will see. practice on a piece of cardboard first to see how it will pattern. after it dries i knocked it down with sandpaper. dont remember what grit. all you doing is knocking the tops off the big stuff. take down to the desired texture. allow to fully dry overnight! i remask the pad now and put the tape right on the line for colors. i chose the camo green and flat black. just kinda fogged in the colors. no sharp lines. looks nice. cant realy see any seperation of the colors but if you looke close the colors are there. krylon makes there own clearcoat matte for this pebble paint. use the whole can. i think i got 8-10 coats on it. if you have a cheapo stock lying around try it out. sounds like a bit of work but it on ly takes about an hour for the whole process, drying time not included <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> woofer
"I would build one again, if it were not for my 350RM (grin)."
Those are all some fine looking rifles you boys are showing off here! Keep it up, I'm scraping together funds and parts for my own 25-284 and you guys have me slobering out of both sides of my mouth. The 25-284 fever bug has bit hard and this ain't helping. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Edmund Burke 1795
"Give me liberty or give me death" Patrick Henry 1775
