Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Remington safety rework

How can I slick up the safety on some newer mod.7s&700s?These newer ones are noisey and stiff.

If you're talking about the XMarkPro triggers I would advise not messing with it unless you are very familiar with the inner workings.

What you can do is remove the trigger and blow it out well with Gun-Scrubber or any similar product so as to remove the factory grease. Then lightly [!] oil it, work it a bunch of times, and see if that slicks it up some.

The safety on these new ones blocks the sear and the trigger and it does the latter by physically moving the overtravel screw in it's housing against the top/front of the trigger to prevent any reward movement.

If you do a search on here I posted a bunch of pictures and descriptions of these triggers completely stripped.

If it's the older stylyle safety here's what I did.I had a broken thumb right before deer season and was having alot of trouble with my safety so I took the safety lever off and put it in a vise and Gently squeezed some of the spring out. Can't advise anyone else to do this but it worked great for me.Sorry didn't mean the lever but the spring, and I compressed it very slightly in a vise.

These are all pre-j loc.I have remys from the 60s up.It seems the later its made,the stiffer it gets.I'V cleaned,blowed&lubed them all,I'll try tweaking it.

Some pics, by Rick B, of the Rem XMarkPro trigger: https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth...&topic=0&Search=true#Post2185569

If it's not an X MARK PRO then you can safely (no pun intended) polish things up a bit concentrating on the portion of the body where the the detent ball rides. Smoothing that area up and even removing a slight amount of metal will lighten things up. Just don't get carried away taken off material...the operative word is a "SLIGHT" amount. Just slight relieve/chamfer/de-bur the edge of the detents.

This is the area that you want to CAREFULLY [!!!!!!!!!!!!!] polish, de-bur, and SLIGHTLY [!!!!!!!!] chamfer. (The area with the orange stick pointing at it.)

This is the safety-on detent and you don't want to relieve it so much that the safety can be easily bumped off safe...but if you work slowly and carefully, testing as you go, you can really smooth and lighten things up.

Don't mess with the detent ball spring. That's the flat finger shaped spring held on with the C-Clip retainer. You can also de-bur the hole for the detent ball so it can freely roll instead of slide up and out of the detents.

Seeing as how Remington is run by liability lawyers they make these safeties so it is easier to go from fire to safe than it is to go from safe to fire. That's why the fire detent is chamfered and the safe detent isn't.

Thanks RickB.I'll give the detent a little polish.I love my mod.7s, but in the last 3 years the safetys have cost me 3 deer.

Before you rework anything, try put some downward pressure on the safety as you take it off. Let you thumb ride the safety off as you push down. It will go off silent, or wait untill the deer is moving, let him silence your safety. His walking will keep him from hearing the safety click.

The resistance you feel and the "snap" you hear from the safety being pushed forward comes from the ball being forced down into it's detent in the side plate by the flat spring. The detent hole in the fire position is countersunk and the detent hole in the safe position is not. It's the difference in height between these two holes that gives the safety a positive locking action. The flat spring acting on the ball plays a part in this but if you slightly relieve/chamfer the safe detent hole the spring pressure against the ball will be slightly reduced and the drop into the fire detent will not be as far and the ball won't "snap" as much when dropping into it.

If you attempt this be aware that if you remove too much material from the safe detent hole you can end up with a sloppy safety that could be bumped off safe fairly easily. Go slow, remove only a slight amount of material, and check the movement of the safety. When it gets to where it feels "almost" there, STOP. At that point you can burnish it in the rest of the way by just working the safety back and forth while applying counter resistance with your other hand/fingers.

These triggers have been much maligned over the years, but when they are set up properly and cleaned once in awhile they are very reliable and safe in my experience.

I think it says allot that the Marine Corps M40's have always used the factory Remington trigger/safety rather than the aftermarket ones out there. If it wasn't reliable and safe they would have replaced it years ago...and they haven't.

Somewhere along the line Remington changed something on there triggers,I have them made 40s,50s,60s,70s,80s,90s,2000s.Also the M40s Ihave shoot had the quite safetys.

The only two "changes" have been the elimination of the bolt lock and the introduction of the X Mark Pro.

What you are referring to is nothing more, and nothing less, than a lack of hand fitting of parts due to mass production and trying to reduce production costs.

Trust me, if you go in there and carefully de-bur and polish things it is entirely possible to get a positive operating, smooth and quite safety. I know this because I do it all the time and I am not some magician with hidden secrets.

Again...ALL of the resistance and noise coming from the safety comes from the detent ball and it's two detent holes in the side plate of the trigger housing. Remove that ball and the safety will quietly move back and forth with no effort at all...it just won't stay in either position.

Excuse me, there was one other early change to the Remington triggers They switched from a two piece sear to a solid sear sometime in 1966...and I think they have changed to shaped of the knob on the safety lever a couple of times over the years.

Text deleted, did not address topic.

Sorry,

So what does that have to do with a stiff and noisy safety?