Home Forums Birds & Dogs Shotguns Need slug gun info

I need some slug gun help, I was just offered to go to southern Ohio and hunt with a bud, its all shot gun and I want to put together as accurate a slug gun as possiable. Im thinking 1100, Im thinking aftermarket barrel. Im a Remington guy and want to keep this gun a Remington. What about 20 vs 12? I can buy a near new 1100 12 ga slug gun for about 250 and Im really leaning tward that.

So lay it on me, what is the best barrel ext...


Thanks

PP

that is a fair price i would grab it.if it has a cycling problem or when it developes one it needs a good cleaning

You may want to look at this.It is in your price range and is a much better slug gun than the 1100. IMO

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth...&topic=0&Search=true#Post2270688

Let the flaming begin.

Thanks WeimsnKs, but Im not a Mossberg guy.

Thanks tbear, I own 4 1100/1187's now and have had a bunch of others so slickin em up and getting them to cycle is no big deal.

My only concers is getting a good barrel as the one Im looking at has only a smooth bore.

Passport, either the 12 or 20 would be a great deer getter.
I used to have an 1100 in 12 with a fully rifled cantilever barrel and it was super accurate.
Whatever you decide on get the fully rifled cantilever and shoot sabot slugs, I am partial to Remingtons own cantilever slug barrels.

I have a 1100, 2 3/4 chamber with a Remington cantilever mount, rifled slug barrel on it. It will shot the lights out up to 150 yards with Lightfield slugs. This set-up is over 20 years old, the gun itself is much older. Where in Ohio, my wife if from there. She's from Holmes county. There and the surrounding counties are deffinately big buck country.

Im not really sure exactly where in OH were hunting yet, crazy as that sounds. I just got the call today and plan on having a few beers with my bud and getting all the details, I do know it close to the west VA line and he has shot some really nice bucks in the last several years, 2 over 150.


He bitches he cant fill his doe tags though.

Probablly near Cambridge. The is a state park there called Salt Fork. I've seen some big bucks there.

Definitely some big deer at Salt Fork.Gotta love SE Ohio!

As far as barrels go, Hastings is really good, but so is the factory Rem. barrels.If you want to scope it, definitely get a cantilever barrel.The saddle mounts on the market suck as far as accuracy is concerned.

12 vs. 20 is a personal choice.They'll both kill deer dead, but one will do it a little easier on your shoulder.I hunt with a 12.If you can get an 1100 for 250, I'd snatch it up in either gauge.

Im a bit on the fence on the 1100 because I cannot seem to find a barrel under 250.00. Heck for that kind of money, 250 for the gun and 250 for the barrel, I can almost buy a new 11-87.

Any one know where the best place to buy a barrel is?

Gunbroker.

Dicks has NIB 1187 in 12 and 20 for 599. I think that is the way Im going since I will have all of that in the used 1100 once I get a good barrel.

Now the question is 12 or 20?

I think either will serve you well, I am more of a 12 gauge kind of guy, not because more power or anything like that but because if deer slugs are in the question there is more choices to choose from.
But I will have to say that a 11/87 in 20 gauge with a fully rifled cantilever barrel topped with a Leupold 1 3/4x6 definately makes me want one.
And I know beyond a shadow of a doubt that 20 gauge is a deer killing machine.

Thanks Tom, Im leaning tward the 20 due to the weight of the 12. The 12 is 8.5 bare and the 20 is a pound less.

Im with you on the Leupold too.

If you're worried about the 20, don't be.It is as effective as any ML, especially if you're using sabot rounds, plus it doesn't belt you like a 12 will, and its lighter, like you mentioned.

one thing you have to remember is that any shotgun with interchageable barrel system is going to have some slop get the set up you want keep track of how tite you have the mag cap. tighter can change you accuracy. If your real serious you will send the gun in and have the barrel welded. If your drive hunting i would not waste time on sabots. shoot a 12 ga with winchester supreame partitions. If you buy a remington barrel use remington copper solids. they will shoot best out of a remington barrel. Keep lube on the low end if your hunting in cold weather or snow or rain. You wond hurt your gun to shoot it little lube unless you shoot a ton. If you shoot a smooth barrel dont clean it once you site it in. leave the gun dirty and dont take it off the gun. same goes for a rifles barrel but you need to clean it to get plastic fouling out. got to go i will write more later. been shooting deer with a shotgun for the last 25 years. got a lot of trial and error stories.

"Have the barrel welded".Thats a new one by me.I've known of people having them pinned in, but not welded.Don't think it would work so well.Also,Winchester Supreme Partitions are sabot rounds FWIW.

If welded or tacked on it would stay put. not a uncommen thing. I know of several people around here that have had it done. I know it works. Its not like they farmer stick weld the thing on. My statement was to mean if you drive hunt it is not worth paying for sabots. If you still hunt than it is. Out of all the sabots i have shot, winchesters seem to be the most consistant. The partition holds up preatty well. retain about 85 to 95 percent of projectile. I have still shot more deer with a foster style slug than anyother. they will do the job not pretty as far as accuracy goes. They do put big holes in things.

I'll take your word on the welding.I'm really not trying to pick a fight.But, I'm a welder by trade, and a hobbyist gunsmith, and I'm not shooting anything that has been welded around the chamber area of any gun.If others do it, great, but welding can take the temper out of steel and can leave it brittle also.Not what I would want where the majority of the pressure is.Maybe I'm wrong, but I'll pass.