Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles RCBS Vs. Redding Die Sets

You're using way too much lube if your denting necks with redding dies. Member that diddy about a little dab will do ya?

I've been sizing thousands of .223 cases through my redding fl sizer with no problems. They are much better made than rcbs dies, IMHO.

I'm sure not doubting your experiences regarding the dented shoulders....I've read posts on several occasions stating the same (with no particular brand of die more than another). I've used RCBS, Redding and Forster dies and have yet to see the same results.

Have you given Imperial Sizing Wax/Lube a try? If not, the smallest amount goes aloooong ways. If so, you're on your own 'cuz you've already said you're not over-lubing.

Good luck and let us know if you try the Imperial and your results in doing so...............

I have never tried Imperial Sizing Wax, but I have read good reports about it.

I solved the problem my purchasing a set of RCBS dies with the vent.

The cartridge was a .300 WBY. Others on here say they never have a problem with dented shoulders and Redding dies.

I wonder if it might be the rounded shape of the Weatherby Case trapping more air or lubricant, causeing Weatherby cartridges to be more suscessable to denting than other cartridges.

Even with my RCBS vented dies, if I get too much lubricant, I will get a dented shoulder, but this is just an indication that I need to stop and clean the die.

With the unvented die, I could never get over 2 sizings with a dented shoulder, no matter how small amount of lube I used.

I think die manufacturers are making a mistake by not venting their dies. It might just be that the shape of the shoulder will cause some cases to dent when others don't.

What is the harm of a vent, anyway, if it prevents shoulder dents? Even a vent will not prevent the dents if you get a die filled with lubricant, but you can load more than one or two cartridges without cleaning with a vented die. Firing would always remove the dents, but I didn't like them being there to begin with.

I don't have any money invested in vented dies, or the tools used to vent them. I never ran into the problem until I bought a set of Redding dies, and I bought them because I was impressed by the write ups by the gun writers, and the workmanship of the dies.

The best set of dies I ever had was a set of 6 PPC dies I made. They were of the button type, with the neck size button made from lapped and hardened high speed steel. The seating die was cut with the same reamer used to chamber the rifle. A recess was cut into the base of the die so that the case could be grasped by the base for removal from the die.

From some of the comments I have read on here, I get the impression that some feel that a vented FL die is much worse than having a social disease that there is no known cure for.

For those that like to quantify things, the Hornady headspace gauge (nee Stoney Point) works very well for setting the FL die. It is used in a set of calipers to measure actual headspace from cartridge base to shoulder. You will want to deprime cases in a separate first step for this setup.

I've found that fired cases from any one chamber come out remarkably close to each other in headspace - usually all within half a thousandth. Let's just pick a sample number, say 3.105".

By using the headspace gauge, you start as in mathman's method above with the die unscrewed a full turn. Size and try, size and try until the headspace distance is reduced by .002". I.e., when your headspace distance reads 3.103". I usually try for about .0015 - .002" (read between the increments on a 1/1000th caliper) to allow for individual springback.

If you really want a snug fit you can adjust the die to give .001" setback but I size for field use so allow another thousandth for easy chambering. .002" setback does this but it doesn't set the shoulder back far enough to cause head separation problems down the line. At least not so far for me, but then I discard cases when they need their third trimming, usually around 8-10 firings.

Also as above, once your sample case is set, FL size an unsized and unprimed case just to make sure the die is set properly.

I've used the marking pen method and the headspace gauge and they both work, just offering this method for the engineer minds among us who want to know the numbers on everything.

Have never used it but I think the RCBS case gauge performs this same function.

I certainly sounds as if you've been "around the block" a few times with this issue and I don't envy you that, but seems you're on the right track now.

I must admit that, I too, was a bit worried when I purchased my first set of Redding dies, sans vent, as I'd only used RCBS dies, with vent, up to about 25 years ago. I looked for the vent as I fully expected to find one as all my RCBS dies had employed before, but no such vent was found. As is customary, I totally clean each and every die prior to their use and had always made sure the vent holes were clean and unplugged. I had often found them plugged with both metal shavings and gunk from the manufacturing process.

Glad to hear that it has all worked out for you. I would still suggest however that there is no better lube than Imperial on the market today, no matter what die or case we're sizing.....IMHO. But we are all creatures of habit and I am, unabashedly, no different. Then again.......I'm thinkin' any social disease ranks right there with anti's and greenies......grin.

Good luck to you this season.........

Some how I managed to run 500 .223 cases through my redding fl sizer last night, and didn't put dents in the shoulders.

I want your press, must be a new progressive....I can only do one at a time!!!

My .223 dies are also Redding made as are most all others I own. I use One-Shot with my .223 cases and have had nothing but a great experience with this lube/spray. I've read in several other posts that others......well, not so much. What's your poison and if not One-Shot, have you tried it and what were your results?

Thanks in advance...

Forster co-ax, you can't have it. I said I ran the cases through the sizer, didn't say anything about trimming, priming or loading and I still have another 1500 cases that need the same treatement, as well as removing the military crimp from 1000 of them.

I'm going to see if Santa will deliver a dillon 550B

For all that you teased me, I'm thinking you missed the One-Shot question......grin.

I buy .223 brass in either 2,000 or 2,500 same case lots. The problem is, when I have new, empty, shiny cases around, I MUST load them ASAP. It is the law of the land here. Character flaw, I realize, but it what it is. I also don't do military crimps, although I have bought some LC stuff which Jeff (Rost) recommended, but they came decrimped (4,000 of them.....and yes, I had them all loaded up within 2 weeks time), but outside of not having to perform that step, I completed all the others you mentioned doing. I was not worth a chit for weeks after that......or ever if you believe my wife.

My claim to fame is my Giraud Case Trimmer (trims, chamfers and deburrs) which is a huge time and step saver. Much better than that stupid Forster co-ax of yours......we'll take this up behind the water tower at recess and I'll punch your lights out.

BTW - Santa's not real......take that!