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Joined: Feb 2003
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Gentlemen

George/avagadro gave a couple of ideas on how to "paint" a silver scope black on another thread. I have a silver 3x9-42 Pentax that I would like to have done in black. The cheaper the better. I'm not to good for $.99 Krylon. Just wondering what some others may have done.

One of Georges suggestions was Gun-Kote. I read the directions and it says you have to bake the stuff in the oven at 300 degrees for an hour. Is this safe for the scope?

God Bless
Shawn


Have you cycled you PF upside down lately?

God Bless
HR IC

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Being in the industrial painting business I would suggest going to a Porter/PPG paint store. They make a wide selection of paints for several different industries (automotive, industrial, residential etc.). My guess is that they will tell you to use an aluminum primer...after that it is probably up to you for the finish coat.


"It might be gone when you get here, but basically it's a green, '64 Chevy, driving West down Maine Street. No, I can't make out the licence plate, but ...errrr... it'll be pulling a small church. So any Green Chevy pulling a church down Main Street, I guess that'll be the one."
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Oh yeah, to make things easier get an aerosol applicator and remember to mask all the threads and take the turret caps off and paint them seperately.


"It might be gone when you get here, but basically it's a green, '64 Chevy, driving West down Maine Street. No, I can't make out the licence plate, but ...errrr... it'll be pulling a small church. So any Green Chevy pulling a church down Main Street, I guess that'll be the one."
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Brownells has a paint called aluma hyde or hide? anyway it aint quiet as resistant to solvents, but it is about $12 a can and you dont have to bake it. it dries in 24 hrs and fully cured in a few days for heavier use. i have painted some stocks and it holds up well to use.


What does it mean when the primers fall out of the case?
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I've used the cheap .99c spray can technique several times before but I'm a cheap SOB. You could use different flat colors and make a camo theme. If you use a flat clear sealer on top,it will last a long time.


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If you call Leupold customer service and ask them about putting a matte finish on their scopes (I had wanted to matte finish a gloss one) they will give you the phone number of a fellow who does this for them.

Hope I get this price right - last time I called him, which was probably two years ago, the price was in the $40-$60 range.

It would be cheaper to do it yourself -ain't it always? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> - but this guy is already over the learning curve and if Leupold recommends him I figure he probaby does very professional work.

Just another option I thought I'd mention.


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I use brownells aluma hyde II for my rifle stocks and it is a great do it your self product. I have inquired about scope coatings but many require heating the scope to cure and that may not be a good idea. you can also check with robar as they do this kind of stuff but it can get expensive.

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bluetick,

I actually didn't remember that GunKote needs to be baked. I actually haven't used it yet, but plan too on a SS rifle I own. I know others have spoken highly of its toughness and figured it may be good for a silver scope, but I don't think I would want to bake any of my scopes, I'd be willing to bet some of the nitrogen would probably leak out and moisture ladden air would seep back in when cooled.


George
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You could try the Duracoat finish. I don't have any experience with it (yet), but it's supposedly better than GunKote and doesn't need to be baked.
John

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Believe it or not, I have had excellant results with Dupli-color Engine Enamel with ceramic I got at Auto-Zone. Semi-gloss and hard as nails after about 24 hours.


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T LEE, did you apply that to an action and all, or just a scope?


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Gentlemen

Thinks to everyone for the suggestion. Before I go straight to the $.99 stuff I will look in to some of the others. The Dupli-Color sounds pretty good as does the Duracoat. I have used Dupli-Color tuck bed liner on two Hi-Tec stocks and it works real well. I have even thought of using it on the scope.

JP if you or anyone else knows the contact info on Duracoat it would be much appreciated. I've done a search, but there are about a kabillion products with that name.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

God Bless
Shawn


Have you cycled you PF upside down lately?

God Bless
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Here is the web address http://www.lauerweaponry.com/ Midway also carries their products. Let us know how you make out.
John

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I've painted scopes, rifles, and shotguns.
I use rust proof flat black, ordinary spray can flat black and bow paint. They all work. Bow paint comes in different colors and can be removed and changed. Rust proof paint does what it says. It's for painting boat parts, etc. that need protection. However, even bow paint protects from rust as my duck guns are still OK w/o much attention.
I've had Gun Kote baked on by Pac-Nor when I had my barrels installed by them. Holds up well. For actions, I really like the baked on moly paint.
A couple of suggestions. Allow lots of drying time and the right temperatures. Do not get any paint in the action, especially in the trigger group or on the feed rails. Make sure scope lenses are well protected.
I'm a big believer in painting long guns. E

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I have used it on both, hard as all get out when set.


George Orwell was a Prophet, not a novelist. Read 1984 and then look around you!

Old cat turd!

"Some men just need killing." ~ Clay Allison.

I am too old to fight but I can still pull a trigger. ~ Me


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I think I would just tape it up. You can remove the tape later and retain the scope's full value in case you decide to sell or trade it.
Good shooting, Weagle

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I've used the aforementioned Aluma Hyde II from Brownells-works very well and can be touched up quite easily. I found out quite by accident that you can remove the paint by simply spraying Birchwood Casey's Gunscrubber on a rag or paper towels and rubbing the painted scope--it will remove the paint completely.

Try the Alumahyde, I think you'll like it. It's cheap enough and like I said, quite easy to remove if you don't like the finish.

Hope it helps.


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