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Repeat... If the bolt is not coming back into battery, the lever bite might also be off. The second half of the throw brings the bolt back down if I remember correctly.
On the second half of the throw, the bolt is locked in position. It should not move up or down with hand pressure. As seen in the picture below, the lever will ride diagonally in the bolt plate until it hits the nook for the pin spring. At this point the lever will ride vertically while cocking the firing pin at the same time. If you have bolt movement on the second half of the throw, which is when the pin spring is being compressed, this is where the problem lies...!!! Thanks, Mike.. I have a 99F, serial #9466XX. I have a similar problem. Mine was an easy fix. Rotor tension adjustment. I also had a "droopy lever" in my 99A SR T/D in 38-55. That was also an easy fix to adjust the lever bite. Both rifles went int battery just fine. However, unless I'm missing something. Mike, in the picture you posted, I do NOT see the cartridge stop abpve the extractor finger on you bolt. Here's is a picture of mine for comparison. Hawkeye's bolt face looks the same as mine.
NRA Endowment Life Member (and proud of it)
Nowadays people know the price of everything and the value of nothing.
Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something. - Plato
Deuteronomy 22:5
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Campfire Tracker
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I stole the picture of that bolt from Todd's parts postings in the sticky posts. I was just trying to point out the area to look at for reference. It was easier than talking one apart. I did not even look at the bolt face...!!! Mike...
All said, the Savage 99 is a genius of a rifle. Although no longer produced, it remains highly revered, as it was the foundation from which Arthur Savage built one of America's great gun companies. >> (Jon Y. Wolfe) <<
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Campfire Tracker
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My sn is 929xxx. I can cycle the action in any pisition empty with no problem.
If I slip close it so it is not cocked when closed its fine.
unless I turn it on its sidewhile slip closing, then the bolt rises and hits.
I can not move the bolt when its closed. I dont have a droopy lever. I do notice that the gun closes easy or soft (hard to describe) at the end. Other guns seem to be tighter at the very end of the lever stroke.
Id love to pull it apart right now but Im going to call the plumber. I just returned a rented 50 foot cutter And still have no flow. %&^^(**!! house cutting into good gun time.
Insert any crap joke here.
Last edited by Grogel_Deluxe; 02/14/09.
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Campfire Member
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First thing you gotta do is take the stock off. Then have a look at the internals to see if something is off in connection with the lever by moving the lever with the stock off.IMHO
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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Les, don't take anything to heart, remember it's the internet! When have you ever known me to take anything that Jed says to heart, unless it is advice. He's mostly good folks, just crabby.
Back in the heartland, Thank God!
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Update. Paul (the seller) emailed me and told me to send it back for a refund, which I will do now.
Thanks for the help, folks. It is good to have a pure Savage resource like this filled with folks who know the Savage 99 series in and out.
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I'm late, as usual in joining in but I think Mike nailed your problem (lever bite) with the second possibility being what Jed said (something not correct in reassembly or non matching bolt). Either way take the stock off and have a look. Don't forget that a tire iron makes for a good stock bolt remover. Just don't crank down on it too hard when reassembling, unless you like wrist cracks. THR, one of your photos (the one that shows the rt. side of rifle) clearly shows the rear of the bolt "drooping", low.... whatever you want to call it. 99's come apart and go back together pretty easily, so if your somewhat mechanically inclined, have a look see. When I first started taking them apart, I kept a 2nd rifle (stock off, close s/n vintage) on the bench to use as a "blue=print". I hope it's easily fixable. Good luck. -TomT
"I'm from the government, and I'm here to help"
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oh, TRH, did you say if the lever was "droopy" on this gun or not? I have 2 99's (1 250-3000EG, and a premil F in .300) that have droopy levers (only when the firing pin is not under tension). I've been meaning to "rearc" them, but never got around to it. I have Word document from some long ago post by someone here (can't remember who) on how to rearc it. Let me know it you want me to e-mail it to you. -TomT
"I'm from the government, and I'm here to help"
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Update. Paul (the seller) emailed me and told me to send it back for a refund, which I will do now.
Thanks for the help, folks. It is good to have a pure Savage resource like this filled with folks who know the Savage 99 series in and out. If your smith is open, Why not run it by him before you send it back? You might find that the fix is cheaper than the freight, transfer fees, etc. Besides, you could report back and let us know the fix.
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Campfire Ranger
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Good thinkin'. That rifle is so nice...it's a shame to loosen your grip on it.
When it comes to choosing friends....I'm at an age where I'd rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
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I'll bet if a local smith can fix it for reasonable money the seller usually says go ahead and get it fixed and they will re-imburse ya.
What little I know about fixen' these 99s has always been "adjustments" and never anything actually broken.
Harry M.
Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny. Thomas Jefferson
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I asked him for authorization for me to have my smith look at it. His response was simply that I should return it for a refund. Hopefully, I'll find another one just as nice looking that doesn't have any mechanical problems.
It sure was nice. I miss it already. Already been sent, though.
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Here's what I wrote:
If you will extend the three day inspection, I could take it to a local gunsmith and see what he says. Maybe it's a cheap fix. What do you want me to do?
His response:
"Send it back for a refund."
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Probably the best way to end it. You would have to find a gunsmith that would even be qualified to work on the 99. I have to think that might be difficult. I don't know if anyone local to me could handle it. Most of the real old time gunsmiths are gone. Most current "gunsmiths" would likely want to send it back to the factory. Yeah, good luck. Better luck on your next purchase, hopefully you will get what you want next time!
"If a nation expects to be ignorant and free, in a state of civilization, it expects what never was and never will be." Thomas Jefferson- 1816
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You would have to find a gunsmith that would even be qualified to work on the 99. I have to think that might be difficult. I don't know if anyone local to me could handle it. Most of the real old time gunsmiths are gone. Most current "gunsmiths" would likely want to send it back to the factory. My advice to you would be to find another gunsmith. And you won't have much luck getting the factory to work on a 99. All in all, 99's are pretty simple to work on. Although it's not often they need to be worked on as long as bubba has been kept away. Once you take the time to study them you'll see they are pretty basic.
NRA Endowment Life Member (and proud of it)
Nowadays people know the price of everything and the value of nothing.
Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something. - Plato
Deuteronomy 22:5
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