Home Forums Birds & Dogs Hunting Dogs Do The Pointing Labs Have As Good A Nose As The "Pure" Pointing Breeds

I'm in the market for a pointing dog and the pointing labs are extremely popular here in Iowa, the Dakotas, etc. What are your opinions concernng these dogs as opposed to the Vizslas, Weim's, German Shorthairs, et al? Thanks.

GDV

Not even close. Sorry.

But a dog's nose is only part of the story. The scenting ability of labs and many other dogs can be perfectly suitable for your needs. Any dog can find pheasants and can be an asset in the field if trained properly.

The biggest problem I've seen with labs is not their noses, it's their body mass and ability to cool themselves. I'm a Minnesota boy, and warm weather is more of a problem for working dogs than cold weather. The spring and summer months offer the best training times, and much of the hunting season can be warm - especially in sun-soaked grass. Warm weather compounds the "nose problem" because dogs sweat through their mouths and noses and further desensitize things.

If you like the "style" of labs working upland birds and the dog suits your needs - go with one.

JOG--

Actually, was leaning against a pointing lab but asked the question because so many I know have one and they are heavily advertised around the midwest as I've said.

I was leaning toward a leaner, slimmer dog and a pure pointer, namely a Vizsla for a couple of reasons, not the least of which is my good friend has one that is turning into a fabulous hunter - close, calm, obediant, no shock collar needed and his points "are in concrete".

Thusly, I came across a dog that will be two in October (just in time for pheasants here in Iowa) and "finished"; that is, will have obediance training and 30-50 birds shot over him and be steady to wing and shot including some retrieving work. I bought him for better or worse.

It's interesting you mention heat as a detriment to dogs. I was mostly concerned in regard to the short haired Vizsla that our cold Iowa winters with wind would be too cold if anything.

GDV

Goodnews,

Vizlas can be incredible dogs � they have all the tools and then some. They are the type of dog that can hunt a quarter section field and find the one bird that is out there. Give me that dog over a fence row hound any day.

My unsolicited advice is to work with the new dog and the current handler as much as possible before you take possession � then the handler can train you too. Watch the handler as close as the dog, watch for body language the handler uses in concert with the voice or whistle commands. Dogs will beam in on stuff the handler might not even be aware he�s doing. I�ve seen lots of dogs react in anticipation, and happen to be right, when the handler just reaches for the whistle. The handler lets go of the whistle because the dog is on course never knowing what just happened.

Cold weather is rarely a problem as long as the dog is moving. I�ve hunted German Shorthairs in temperatures well below zero and they thrive. The trip home is another story � do whatever you can to ensure the dog is dry, warm, and comfortable. I spoil the daylights out of dogs that just worked all day. My dog has his own hooded sweatshirt that he wears during breaks and on the trip home, where he often dons long tube socks on his hind legs as well. Upland dogs are athletes and need to be treated as such. Some might laugh, but this dog has to hunt the next 3, 4, or 5 days running. Neoprene dog vests are very warm (sometimes too warm) and are another nice �dog box� item.

The only real problem dogs have in cold weather is ice. Ice can cut pads so dog boots are a nice item to have on hand. Ice can also build up on a dog�s fur, especially where snow melts on the belly and refreezes. This ice can build up around a male dog�s�ummm�beans and abrade them in a mean way. Vaseline works wonders to prevent ice build-up in these areas, and you get the added bonus of threatening your wife with mixing up the dog�s supply with hers if she doesn�t let you go hunting. Someone here at the Campfire mentioned Pam no-stick spray to prevent icing, and I plan on trying that this fall. Also, the dog still needs liquid water � eating snow doesn�t provide enough. A thirsty dog will gorge on snow and then usually barf. The dog might get by eating snow, but you want his mind on the game � not on his thirst.

Good luck with the new dog, and try to keep your mind occupied �til October <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />. I�ll be looking forward to hearing more about you two.

JOG--

Thanks for the advice and the interesting info. I do plan on going down a couple of days to work with handler and dog. HopefullyI can be trained.

Maybe you can recommend some neoprene vests and types of dog boots that actually stay on as well as other doggie gear that you have found helpful. I know my friends Vizsla, before I went out and bought him a vest for his dog, would end up with an abraded underside and many small nicks and cuts on the legs and feet after a hard day afield. Some upland cover is tough to skin. Thanks.

GDV

Goodnews,

The dog boots that stay on the longest are the blaze orange ones. I can usually find it when the dog kicks it off and put it back on <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />.

I've had the best luck with the longer style boots, such as this set from Cabela's.

Dog vests come in two main types - insulating and protective. The insulating vests would be much too hot for brush busting in all but the coldest weather.

The protective vests are usually heavy nylon/cordura and are open at the top to shed body heat.

I don't have a strong preference in either type, and the selection at Cabela's seems to be as good as any. I have a neoprene vest for my GSP and it rarely gets used, but it always makes the trip late in the season "just in case". I don't use protective vests on dogs, mainly because they take the worst beating on their forelegs and muzzle - not the body area.