Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Ruger No.1-B problem

Have a first year production No.1-B that has been shot very little over the years, probably 300 to 400 rds hundred total. Dug it out of the locker and thought I would shoot a few groups with it and it doesn't shoot like it used to. I sent it back to Ruger about 6 years ago and had new wood put on it as the original wood looked like a piece of pine. Can't remember if I had shot it since I had the new wood put on it. Shot several three shot groups with it and every group was the same, 2 shot very close and 1 shot an inch or two out. Any ideas about what is going on?

What model, caliber, 1B is in question here? IF an original early model, switiching the wood would have massivley reduced any collector value.

Did you shoot it after the new wood was installed?

1B

Panhandle: I was alive and kicking back in the first year of Ruger #1-B production and part of their popularity back then was the pretty much universally great looking wood they put on them back then.
Remember they only had to come up with relatively small pieces of good looking and well figured wood not one large one as on most Rifles of the day.
My first Ruger #1 was in caliber 6mm Remington and it had serial # 1,300 (one thousand three hundred) exactly.
It had stunningly beautiful wood on it by the way.
Alas I traded it for a pre-64 Model 70 some years later.
Wish I had the #1-B back.
Yes first year production Ruger #1's have strong values attached to them - especially the ones in 222 Remington!
If yours is in caliber 222 Remington by the way I would be a "player" for it.
Best of luck getting that "oldie" to shoot.
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy

I don't know what the two previous replies have to do with your wandering zero/accuracy question, panhandle - but IMO the forend might need to be "clearanced" from the barrel, as it sounds as if it may be too close to, or actually touching, one side of the barrel, which expands or moves with the heat of successive shots getting a pressure to one side that's throwing the shot.

Try wrapping a dollar bill once around the lower half of the barrel from above, as if a cradle or "U", and slide it from the front of the forend towards the receiver.
It should slide w/o catching, almost all the way.
If not, I would pull the forend, coat the barrel with a thin coat of lipstick, then R&R to pick up where the high spot(s) in the barrel channel may be, for removal.

.

Panhandle

Two tight shots with a third flyer is kind of odd.

Start with the -

Variables -
Scope mount
Scope rings
Scope
Trigger pull
Forend channel (float)
Ammo
Shooter

Forend -
Most of the time there are pressure points in the forend channel, especially odd points along the receiver area, sides, and front rise. Light sanding with coarse then fine sand paper to allow consistent clearance combined with a thin stainless washer between the forend and barrel (on the attachment screw) usually improve stringing results (check the float with a piece of paper). Seal the forend with either rub finish or brush on finish.

I have enlarged the barrel channel so the wood is not touching any metal. Have tried 2 different scopes. Glassed the forarm so there is about .015 clearance between the frame and wood. Have drilled and tapped the forarm hanger for a 6x32 set screw. Have tried 40, 50 and 55 grain bullets. Have bought new brass. Trigger is set at about 2 1/2 lbs. Also have run out of ideas. What do you think?

Yes, I have also considered the shooter and I'm trying the best I that I can!!!!!

Dick
You have the variables addressed. No intent to id the shooter as an issue, just a variable to consider!

Is this a .223? If so, what is the rate of twist?

Did you check the actual scope base to the barrel for adequate torque?

What condition is the barrel (you said shot very little)? Have your de-coppered it thoroughly?

A three shot string is not a lot, but #1's can be finnicky, most of the time are not a 'benchrest gun' type grouping rifle. The cold bore shot and hotter temp shot results can vary.

If the Crown was marked badly, you might get some wander but it has to be really badly nicked up.

Ammo - reloads? Are they consistent brass, primers, charge and bullets? Are you using form fired brass from this rifle? Length to the chamber?

Is it always the third shot that is away (up right)?

The rifle is a 22-250, the has been shot very little, was recently really cleaned and scrubbed and Ultra Bore coated. Have seen no need to shoot more than 3 shot groups because after firing 3 rounds a flyer is looking back at me through the scope. All bases have been check as have the rings. Crown has been checked and lapped. I fire 3 rds and let it cool for about 5 minutes. There is no pattern as to which shot goes out. Only change in the componets is the new Remington brass. The box I have been working out of (50 cases)have all been fired at least a couple of times, brass was sized and cut to length before it was reloaded. The shot that goes out never goes low. I am going to the range again in the morning. Am hoping that the work on the forearm will show some results. Also am going to try different tensions on that hanger to barrel screw. Will report back with the results.

The wood on the No.1's in the early days was very plain or very fancy and the fancy wood was normally $20.00 more. Don't know if it was just a dealer charge or a factory charge. The serial number on this one is 143X.

What you completed so far gives you more on it then most #1's ever get to be accurate.
That is usually an accurate round, can get a little wippy depending with wind.

I hope you get a tight group, that's a great round to shoot / have fun with.

Good luck!

The Ruger #1's do require some forend pressure on the barrel on 3 sides. Did you remove any of the forarm pressure point in the forend?

Doc

A setscrew, in the end of the forend hanger, bearing up-pressure on the barrel ILO free-floating the barrel, is a standard cure for #1's that string their shots vertically - not for flyers.

I think the next thing I would do if it was my gun, would be to carefully fire a 10-shot group, with the shots spaced at least a minute apart, to see if two distinct groups developed.

I would also investigate/inspect the firing pin and it's hole for very slight debris that could possibly be giving inconsistant ignition - which sometimes leads to otherwise unexplained flyers.

.

Barrel is fully floated except for the set-screw in the hanger.

Dick - No disrespect meant, but you might have gotten better answers and/or deeper thought - and not wasted everybody's time, who's tried to help you - if you'd have been upfront in your OP, by including everything you've already tried/done/used, ILO piece-mealing it out in rebuke.

Good Luck

.

Just got back from the range. Am now getting rounder groups but they are 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Getting the wood off the receiver helped with the flyer but the large groups aren't acceptable. Time to find a new home for this rifle, any offers?