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pjf Offline OP
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The instructions for preparing a rifle for Ultra Bore Coat states:

�The proper installation of Ultra Bore Coat involves first cleaning the bore down to bare, dry steel. Otherwise the coating won�t be sticking to the steel, but powder or lead or copper fouling.�

How does one prepare a new, never-fired, or re-blued barrel for Ultra Bore Coat?

In my case, I sent my rifle back to the Ruger factory for refinishing and re-bluing. When the rifle was re-blued, I believe that the inside of the bore was re-blued as well. It looks like it has never been fired.

PS - Should I apply Ultra Gun Shield first or Ultra Bore Coat first?

GB1

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JB bore paste it exactly like Doug's instructions tell you to do.....


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PS...either one first.

UBC goes on the inside, UGS goes on the outside.......


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Been following this product at a distance,......

supposed to be pretty good,.....?

I'm thinking to try it on my next build.

Endorsements welcomed,.....

curious like, here.

GTC


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UBC goes in EVERYTHING I own.....'nuff said.


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Thanks,.....building another .45- 2.6", will give er'a whirl.

For whatever it's worth, a barrel fresh outta' blue, or re-blue,....in hot salts, will have been dunked, HOT, into some fairly tenacious, and "Waxy" oil. The stuff's formulated to stick like chit to a blanket, too.

A brand new "Blank" will be permeated with Lord only knows what sort of cutting oils ( cut rifled) or die lubricants ( button rifled)

Getting the interior of either, or any of them really clean does not have to be a major chore,........An old flea market grade pressure cooker, and some small bore industrial grade tubing will see you STEAMING that crap outta' there,.........alternate detergent flush / brush, than more steam.

Barrel vertical,....and steam from the top,......

put a puke can underneath,....and when you're done,.....let that sucker cool,.....

DON'T let the barrel cool, air dry, and than do your Moly,.....or whatever,..... treatment, with the thing smokin' hot.

By the time the "Puke Can'" is cool,
observe the oil / grease scum floating atop.

Ya' just thought the barrel was clean.

I've got a "Never Sweat" method for getting tenacious lead / cast bullet fouling out of barrels,.......so damn simple, too.
Look for that, the next time that ugly rat sticks it's nose out.

GTC


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My understanding is that the hot bluing process removes all metal fouling. The degreaser in the Ultra Bore Coat kit will remove any oils that may have been applied after the hot bluing. Is there any need to apply abrasives, such as JB Bore Cleaner, to a hot-blued bore that has not been fired?

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I am a believer in UBC. I put it two rifles that were godawful foulers. Now cleaning is 1/10 the time it used to be.

Were it me and one of my guns I would run enough patches with copper solvent on them to be certain I had it all out, then I'd JB bore paste it and follow that with a decent cleaning and then degreasing.

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Sure looking foward to trying the stuff, it sure sounds worthwhile.

GTC


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I'm a believer in UBC too. But if I have a newly blued bore, is there a need to use an abrasive, such as JB Bore Cleaner, prior to applying UBC?

Since the hot-bluing removes metal fouling, can't I skip the abrasives and chemicals, use the degreaser included in the UBC kit, and then apply UBC?

I would think that owners of new guns will all be asking the same question.

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"I would think that owners of new guns will all be asking the same question."

New guns are fired at the factory and are generally shipped dirty. I always clean new rifles prior to a range trip. Some of them are very dirty and require quite a bit of work to get them clean.


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Originally Posted by pjf
My understanding is that the hot bluing process removes all metal fouling. The degreaser in the Ultra Bore Coat kit will remove any oils that may have been applied after the hot bluing. Is there any need to apply abrasives, such as JB Bore Cleaner, to a hot-blued bore that has not been fired?


Brake Cleaner will degrease any barrel made, as well.....and I use that prior to using Doug's degreaser.

I JB 'em, especially to "lap" a new factory non-custom barrel prior to UBC...hasn't failed me yet.

If still in doubt simply talk to Doug Burche, it's his product anyway.....


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I would JB it just to be safe.

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Originally Posted by pjf
I'm a believer in UBC too. But if I have a newly blued bore, is there a need to use an abrasive, such as JB Bore Cleaner, prior to applying UBC?

Since the hot-bluing removes metal fouling, can't I skip the abrasives and chemicals, use the degreaser included in the UBC kit, and then apply UBC?

I would think that owners of new guns will all be asking the same question.


New does not necessarily mean unfired.

If I were doing a newly blued gun I would still clean it spotless and polish with at least 30 stroke of JB (in/out). I would clean the JB out and degrease before I put in the UBC. That will not remove all or even most of the bluing, but it will make sure it's clean, and that's what's important.

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My rifle and its bore have been re-blued three times in succession without firing. The first time my rifle was re-blued, the gunsmith school removed the glossy finish and replaced it with a matte finish. The second time it was re-blued, the gunsmith school placed a satin finish on it. The 3rd time my rifle was re-blued was when I sent it back to the factory for re-bluing. I am told that each bluing process removes all copper fouling.

The bore of my rifle is as clean as a whistle. Just in case, I do intend to re-clean it with the supplied degreaser from Ultra Coatings before applying UBC.

Is it necessary to remove the three coats (4 including the original) of bluing from the bore before applying UBC?


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