Home Forums Hunting & Shooting BPCR Paper patching slugs

VAnimrod suggested I put up a series of pics I took to illustrate patching bullets and later on loading same into cartridges.
Cut patch

The set up

Wetting the patch. The paper stretches a bit when you do this

Starting the wrap

Wrapping the slug. Gentle but tight roll

Smoothing the wrap and twisting the pigtail on the base

I use Rooster jacket lube to lube the patched slug
[img]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/EvilTwinMar/PatchingSlugs009.jpg[/img]
Put a little bit of the lube on a sponge brush and gently twist in direction of wrap. Let dry
[img]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/EvilTwinMar/PatchingSlugs010.jpg[/img]
The bullet as cast then patched. then a moosekiller
[img]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/EvilTwinMar/Moosekillerds.jpg[/img]

Folks that use PP slugs have their own ways but this should serve as a ground zero primer. They shoot well for me. Have FUN!!

heck it looks simple enough I'm thinking a caveman could do it!

remains to be seen if it's outside the ability of a freakin hairstylist though!

you gonna post more pics of the rest of the process?

looked good to me, twas it a chunk of marble you was rollin on?

looks like you start with a corner so you end with a funnel and then twist, lube and dry.

loved the pics of cast, patched and MOOSE killa

If this attempt goes well, I have another series of pics of loading a paper patched slug into a 45-110 case. I ain't the expert but it is simple enuff. Lotsa guys do better when they have an image they can correlate their actions with.

I'm still in my infancy with my Sharps (45-90 LRE) and doing GG's. I have had to mine some lead, but it could be because I did not run any lube down the barrel before firing my initial rounds. Still trying to get an initial firing on a 300 rd collection of Starline brass. I can't come near advertised loads with virgin cartridges. Those rifles are scary accurate even with iron sights.

Some stupid questions.... What are the angles on the template? Does that strip of paper add up to two layers around the slug, and what is you routine between rounds for extended shooting sessions?

I may have to give PP a try after I get my brass blown out. Thanks for the illustrations, 1Minute

Not stupid. All that is required is a decent parallelogram. Buff Arms sells caliber marked brass templates for patch cutting, which is what I use. The patch wraps twice. Keep in minf 1minute that I don't shoot comp. I hunt with the Sharps. I have learned from Sharpsguy the use of compression, bullet weight and lube to be able to fire at least 10 rounds between wipings. In actual fact, I fire my rounds in pairs. Two rounds out, dry patch. I think that for hunting that is just a practical approach. Ever since I started to use GOEX Express I have far softer foul from the powder burn alone and that is a big part.Do you TRICKLE your charge down a 24" drop tube to load?? Seriously. I experimented just to see and using a careful trickle, I loaded ten 2 7/8" cases with 120 grains of powder. Just pouring powder down the tube only allows me around 105 grains. A drop tube used carefully does compact the powder quite a bit.

Next steps

Priming case

Drop tubing powder

Check charge level. You want to see powder stack to same height in each case

I seat the card wad first


compress the charge

Cookie cut the lube disc

The "highly technical" bullet seating step

Three rounds of 45-110 with a 50 BMG case for reference. Now wuzn't that hard???

Neat work, ET.

I appreciate the high tech seating system

Are those pure lead bullets ?

Bullets are cast 30:1 Lead/tin.

EvilTwin: I will probably give PP a go eventually. Again, I'm still blowing out virgin brass and burning up my odd lots of powder in that process. A couple tins of hold over Elephant and some Dragon (Chinese) that a local dealer carried. There's 25 lbs of 2F Goex Express waiting in the wings though.

I was initially compressing after dropping in 0.060 wad, but some of the Shiloh boys were critical of that. They implied that one did not want to eliminate any of the wad's shock absorbing or sealing character. That given, I compress before the wad goes in now. I've not done cookies yet.

I will never do competition either, but enjoy the challenge of trying to wring the most out of anything. Neat rifles, but a faster clean up would leave more time for other endeavors. Thanks again for your posts, 1Minute

Great pics ET.

I have the stuff to paper patch, but haven't gotten around to trying it yet. There are different schools of thought on whether to apply dry or wet, and whether to lube. I know shooters who do it with success both ways.

In the spirit of show and tell, here is my drop tube setup. I did not orginate the concept, but adapted it. I admit up front that it may be unnecessary overkill, but I like it. So does a very particular shooting buddy who swears by it.

Essentially it incorporates a small electric motor with an offset shaft weight to produce vibration. And, no, I did not cannibalize a sex toy, although I imagine they work the same way, down to the little Chinese motor. The motor, battery pack, toggle switch, and take-down connectors came from Radio Shack. Since the pic was taken, I've moved the toggle switch closer to the top.

I've found that the size of the hole in the top funnel is critical. About 1/8" seems to be max, and I started with 3mm. It takes about 12-18 seconds for the charge to pass through. It makes for a very uniform powder column, probably more dense than hand pouring.

Paul

Geeze Louise--

Nice set-up Paul. I keep mine as is 'cuz I took the droptube from the Lyman 55 BP measure and put that in my field box. I amcurrently rigging up a way to compress the powder without having need for a press or die. The oldtimers loaded ALL of their ammunition in the field and were partial to PP bullets. Lube. Sharpsguy doesn't lube his patches and he rolls them dry. I like the wet wrap as I use a very high cotton bond paper that stretches nicel when wet without tearing giving a tight firm wrap. The patch lube is a good idea for field ammunition here (and in Newfoundland is was NECCESSARY) because it keeps further moisture from destroying the patch.

FWIW, I don't hunt much anymore, and not with a BPCR. I shoot competition exclusively. I'm not a great shot, and distance keeps me from attending as many matches as I'd like, so I try do whatever I can to assure that the rifle and load do their part, and to give me confidence. I mention this because I know that lots of BPCR shooters focus on hunting and don't shoot competition, which is fine.

I just want to put my comments and practices in context, not suggesting that they are "the best", or for everyone.

And I enjoy tinkering.

Paul

What type of paper do you use, is it dimensionally a given thickness? I have only seen rebated bullets PP before, and yours look straight walled. There is so much to learn and I have not even ordered a Sharps yet.
Randy

Evil,
Very nicely done on your presentation!
Almost makes me want to re-start paper patching. Use to shoot a lot back in the late 80's early 90's but drifted away from Long range BP shooting.

Any way you could assist those interested further if you would discuss the best papers available and where to find them. Just a suggestion.

LRF
PS didn't see the reply above mine. OPPS

I don't do BP anymore,but still roll a few..these are some gopher loads for a .458 with 5744

Rifle: That left most slug looks like grease groove unit. What's the deal? 1Minute

LRF I'ld highly recommend you go to Shilohs web site and in the books order up Orville Loomers book on paper patching. Very basic but well researched and prooven methods.

Evil Twin, if you cleaned those cases your accuracy may jump up a bit. Also have you tried shortening the patch and folding the base? Twisted tails don't do much for accuracy.

As a side note the 27/8 case was the original 45-120 , the 3.25 cased 120 came later and there's good arquements to be made that Sharps may not of ever chambered it.