Home Forums Lever Action Central Marlin 336 Lever Actions Need suggestions to fix problem with scope mount on 336.

I recently mounted a scope on my son's 336T 30/30. First time shooting at the sand pit, it was about 8" low and 8" to the right at 80 yards. I did not expect to have to correct for that much windage and elevation. The owner's manual on the scope says 70 clicks total adjustment (35 from center), which may not be enough in this situation. There is no adjustment inherent in the rings or bases. I like the neat, trim Weaver mounts, but want to bring the point of impact closer to point of aim by adjusting the bases/rings before using internal scope adjustments. I'd prefer to use Redfield-style bases/rings as a last resort.

Is this common when using Weaver style bases on a 336? I do not want to use shims so as to avoid stress on the scope tube. Try different rings? Re-seat bases? Suggestions?

Scope is a Nikon UUC 2-7x32. Scope objective does not contact barrel or rear sight. I used Weaver-style Warne steel bases intended for the 336, and Burris rings. I carefully attached bases and rings, so I know they are not loose. The scope was purchased new, but I did not check to see if reticle was in center of adjustment range.

Thanks.

70 inches of adjustment is pretty good these days. There isn't much you can do with Weaver style rings and bases to make up windage or elevation..

I've seen 10 MOA Picatiny rail bases for Marlins on ebay or as a resort you could use higher rings to solve the elevation issue but doesn't do much for windage.

I'd use a Redfield or Leupold setup.

Try these, you can gain 40" of adjustment at 100 yards. http://www.burrisoptics.com/sigrings1.html#2

Thank you for the replies!

Just so I am clear, not "70 inches" adjustment, 70 clicks total or 35 from center. 35 clicks being roughly 8.5"MOA @ 1/4" per click. My original assumption is that a factory-new scope comes with the windage/elevation adjustments centered in the range of travel.

Always something to get in the way of actually shooting. It took forever to get the Zee "super low" matte rings I am using now. The Burris eccentric offset solution is only available in "medium" height. Not a big problem. Besides, what's another $35 to get this rifle shooting?

I will try a few things, first. Dismount the hardware. Switch the bases front to back, rotate 180 deg. Same for rings. Mount a "generic" one piece aluminum Weaver base. Try using other Weaver rings I have on hand. Pull the bolt, and bore sight this time, of course. Make sure someone did not mess with the windage adjustments. (Although, IIRC, scope box was sealed...) If it seems that the rifle's tapped holes are off-center, then the Burris eccentric solution looks best. I'll have to calculate which offset will work best. Shouldn't take more that another year of free-time to fix.

With regards to an older Marlin like that "T", I would be very much more inclined to suspect aftermarket bases/rings out of spec, than I would that the Marlin's receiver was D/T'd out-of-line with the bore.

I would next suspect a particular scope for zeroing issues.

I've scoped over 50 Marlin 336's & M1894's, over the years - and have never had one fail to easily zero with the plain/old standard Weaver rings & base setup.

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Your basic assumption is incorrect. Scopes are NOT always centered from the factory. That is the owners responsibility.

You are going about it the proper way. Shift the reticule back to center, ( 35 clicks from the extremes ), then swap the rings. I use a Leopold bore sighting tool to check progress. Usually, swapping rings front to back or turning them 180 degrees or both will get you close to zero on the bore sighter. Then it's just "fire for effect" at the range. An hour or so with tools and the bore sighter and another hour at the range should have you accurately "sighted in".

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Another possible solution would be to use Millet rings. Their mounts screw in from both sides and can be offset slightly to correct for out of line mounts and I've not every noticed them unduly torquing the scope. I've used them on a couple of rifles and they've performed well.

I think you should try and sight the rifle in, could easily not even be a problem.

Pull the bolt, do a poor man's bore sighting, replace the bolt, shoot it and adjust from there.

I had the same problem!
I ended up shimming the rear of the scope with a piece of thin cardboard,almost like tagboard.
worked like a charm, I was just careful when I was tightening the scope down, alternating screws every turn and going slow.

Thank you for all the great replies.

This is a crossbolt "T", like new, about 12 years old. I would not expect Marlin scope holes to be too far out of line. The Monarch has a convenient mark to indicate center adjustment, and it was already in position for both. Even so, I tried one, 36 gentle clicks to the left and back, as expected. My primary concern with shims is overstressing the scope tube, an old superstition I picked up years ago.

True, I may be too concerned about total adjustment. I'll start simple, in proper order, and work from there.

Had a 1936 32sp where the barrel and action were not true. Wish I still had it.
When shimming try old film negative.Does not absorb moisture and is easy to work with.