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duck911 Offline OP
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Hi all,

I have a Taurus model 608 in .357 Mag. (I know, some of you are probably saying that's my first issue, right there....)

But, the gun shoots sweet, is accurate, and has a GREAT trigger - when it works.

The problem is, after about a cylinder or two of shooting, the gun binds up and won't shoot in DA, and I can barely manually cock the trigger to shoot SA.

The problem seems to be that the gap between the forcing cone and cylinder is too small, and when the gun heats up even just a little the forcing cone touches the cylinder face and causes just enough friction to bind it up.

I've had one smith check it out and he thinks the gap is off, as opposed to too much play (front/back) with the cylinder, in case anyone was going down that road. This is evident due to the marks on the cylinder face where it contacts the forcing cone after it heats up.

Anyhow, I really don't want to send this to Taurus, pay for shipping, and wait 6 months for a fix. I've heard that some smiths have a chamfer took where they can literally cut a few ten thousandths off the forcing cone.

Is that a viable option? Does that cause any other issues like flame cutting on the top strap?

Any other thoughts?

Also, if anyone has any idea a good smith in the Colorado front range area that might be able to do this work, I'd appreciate it!

thanks,

--Duck911


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From what you are descibing, it sounds like there is a clearance issue.

I know cylinder end shake will sometimes cause it to do that. If you hold the gun by the barrel and move it up and down, does the cylinder move? Does this pistol have a cylinder bushing?

It could be the hand torsion spring not functioning properly, but this would show up immediately, so you can probably rule that out.

Just check to see if there are drag marks on the rear face of the cylinder where the hand engages. Check to see if there are drag marks on the sides of the cylinder left by the pawl, that could be your problem.

I would check the cylinder rod and hole in the cylinder and make sure they were polished and had no burrs. Does the cylinder rotate freely in the gun when it is not hot?

If it turns out to be the cylinder rubbing the forcing cone, make sure you bring it to a qualified pistol smith that has done that work before.

It's not hard to fix.

JM

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Originally Posted by duck911
Hi all,

I have a Taurus model 608 in .357 Mag. (I know, some of you are probably saying that's my first issue, right there....)

But, the gun shoots sweet, is accurate, and has a GREAT trigger - when it works.

The problem is, after about a cylinder or two of shooting, the gun binds up and won't shoot in DA, and I can barely manually cock the trigger to shoot SA.

The problem seems to be that the gap between the forcing cone and cylinder is too small, and when the gun heats up even just a little the forcing cone touches the cylinder face and causes just enough friction to bind it up.

I've had one smith check it out and he thinks the gap is off, as opposed to too much play (front/back) with the cylinder, in case anyone was going down that road. This is evident due to the marks on the cylinder face where it contacts the forcing cone after it heats up.

Anyhow, I really don't want to send this to Taurus, pay for shipping, and wait 6 months for a fix. I've heard that some smiths have a chamfer took where they can literally cut a few ten thousandths off the forcing cone.

Is that a viable option? Does that cause any other issues like flame cutting on the top strap?

Any other thoughts?

Also, if anyone has any idea a good smith in the Colorado front range area that might be able to do this work, I'd appreciate it!

thanks,

--Duck911

I had an old S&W that model 10 I think forget the model in 38 special, 6 shot, 2 inch barrel. Someone had parkerized the gun. It did exactly the same thing. I took a fine flat file and made a pass or two over the forcing cone, put some cold blue on it, and off I went...no more issues. On a Taurus I would do the same thing...but Go slow smile


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if you or a smith modifies you taurus you lose all warranty coverage...

i sent one back for a similar issue... they detected and remedied 2 additional issues as well as the original problem...
under 3 weeks turnaround time...

try them....


"Chances Will Be Taken"


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Originally Posted by duck911
Anyhow, I really don't want to send this to Taurus, pay for shipping, and wait 6 months for a fix.


I've been there, so I feel for you. In my experience, you can send the gun to the manufacturer and wait 6 months or longer to get back a working revolver, or you can give it to a local smith and maybe/maybe not get it fixed (also might be 6 months), or, and this is what I've done in a few instances, do nothing and have the same annoying unworking gun 6 months from now.

Given what I know now, I'd send it to Taurus.

PS-- A friend once did not like the way the finish was wearing on his 4 month old Ruger Redhawk. He sent it to Ruger and they sent him an entirely new gun within a month. Although this story isn't entirely relevant, you might be pleasantly surprized at Taurus' response. And wouldn't that be nice.


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Send it to Taurus in the "binding" condition and describe the problem. They'll take care of it (hopefully at no charge).

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The trigger limit pin in the rebound slide is either damaged or left out from incorrect assembly.


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Before sending it anywhere, or making modifications, open the cylinder and clean THOROUGHLY underneath the star extractor. Clean both the extractor and the breech end of the cylinder with a toothbrush and powder solvent like Hoppes 9. That is a favorite place for unburned powder granules to hide, and anything that gets in there effective lengthens the cylinder and causes binding at one or both ends. It's very common.

Let us know how you make out.


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If you send it to Tauras and you have modified the pistol, make sure they will not take out the modified parts and replace them with new factory parts.

I know Ruger will do this. mad

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Taurus is a good company and they make a good product. Every manufacturer turns out an imperfect gun from time to time. Give Taurus a chance to make it right and they will. The 608 is a very cool gun, let them fix it and then enjoy it.

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Glad some of you believe Taurus will fix the problem. I on the other hand don't share your opinion.

I had a new stainless Tracker that would bind up on 1 chamber when it was loaded. Bind to the point you couldn't shoot it double action and if you rotated the cylinder by hand while cocking it the trigger pull bottomed out a 12# trigger scale. The other 4 chambers fired at 4# single action. With the gun unloaded or that chamber not loaded it shot fine. This was with 3 different brands of 41mag ammo.

Sent it back to Taurus.....twice. The second time I even marked the bad chamber for them. After I got it back the first time I called them about it not being repaired. They said send it back again. No, they wouldn't pay for shipping, I asked. Sent it back the second time with a description of the problem and even marked the chamber for them. It was returned with a work order that said, "Normal operation, no problem found" and it still did the same thing. After $70+ in shipping charges and no remedy I got rid of it.

Sold it to a gunsmith and replaced it with a S&W. I understand every manufacturer has a lemon now & then, the difference being the good ones fix their mistakes. I don't count Taurus in the group of good ones.

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If the cylinder binds when the cylinder heats up, and works
when it's cool the fix should be obvious. By all means clean
under the extractor, then if it continues to bind a few strokes of a file should fix it. It won't void the guarntee if you don't tell them.
Good Luck!

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Ahlman's in Morristown, MN, does all of my handgun 'smithing. I think that their pistolsmiths are better than S&W's in MA.

www.ahlmans.com

Jeff

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duck911 Offline OP
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thanks guys for the feedback.

I have heard horror stories about Taurus's customer service, though haven't experienced it myself. I have already cleaned under the extractor (I was previously given that advice) but it didn't help. I can actually see the forcing cone drag marks on the cylinder face, so I do believe that's what the issue is.

Thanks again. Not sure if I want to take a file to my revolver - maybe I will try my luck and send it back...

--Duck911


The DIPCHIT ADD, after a morning of drinking:

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A despair ninny.
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The end of the cylinder can't hit the forcing cone, it's inside the barrel. wink

The cylinder CAN rub the end of the barrel if you have too much endshake (foward/aft movement of the cylinder). Push the cylinder foward, rotate the cylinder. If it rubs they might have to redo the crane. If the endshake is good they'll re-cut the face of the barrel and then re-cut the forcing cone if it's out of limits on the low side.

Sometimes lead build-up on the face of the barrel will cause the issues your describing.

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Thye forcing cone tool only works to true the angle of the forcing cone.This is inside the forcing cone and will have no effect on the problem you are refering to.

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You can check the cylinder-to-barrel clearance with a feeler gauge. Production revolvers usually have 0.004" to 0.006" clearance, but a really well-fitted gun may have as little as 0.002". Flame cutting of the top strap is caused by excessive clearance. You should also check for uniform clearance. If the barrel is cut on a bias, the gun should be returned unless unless the max clearance is relatively low.

If you are fortunate enough to have a gun where the clearance is just a little tight, it's not rocket science to pass a fine file over the end of the barrel to gain a little extra.

If it turns out that the gun has any of the other problems described herein, it should be given to a gunsmith or returned. Taurus' shop doesn't have the greatest reputation; I would avoid them unless you're dealing with an obvious warranty defect. Minor tuning can be done better by others.


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It's sure not unusual for different folks to have different experiences with the same manufacturer . It shouldn't be that way but it is .

As soon as I saw the Tracker advertised , I had a dealer order a Stainless one for me . It's been so long ago that I don't remember exactly what the problem was that I had but I 'm sure it had to do with functioning in double action . I called Taurus and got permission to send it back .

They returned it very promptly and had fixed the problem . They paid the freight for returning it .

I later gave it to a friend after I bought the Titantium version . He is still using it with no problems .

I'd try Taurus . You might get lucky .


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There is a reason why Taurus offerings don't cost as much as a Smith & Wesson. I adopted a policy long ago that when a particular item is so often compared to that which it was copied from, you'd best spend the extra bucks and get the real deal.


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Do NOT file the forcing cone. I'd know how to fix it if it was a Smith, but not a Taurus...never owned one.

Send it back.

Last edited by Gene L; 02/14/10.

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