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Joined: Aug 2006
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OP
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Joined: Aug 2006
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I've got a 410 with a broken extractor; my Dad made a new part out of cold rolled steel on his milling machine, but it turned out to be a bit soft. What grade of steel should we be using for the next one? Or can we use cold rolled steel and some kind of quench for hardening?
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 148
Campfire Member
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Campfire Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 148 |
try Brownells they sell fatigue proof steel stock that makes great firing pins- sounds like what you would need for an extractor
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 149
Campfire Member
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Campfire Member
Joined: Aug 2009
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Hey Oregon45, I'd try Numrich gun parts. They sell just about every part you need for most guns. I just bought some things from them and live in your area, the shipment took 2 days to get to my house. They are very good to do business with. I'm asuming the extractor is heat treated or hardened steel of some type. At the least I think I'd use a higher carbon steel like 1095 from something like an old planer blade or old saw blade then re-heat treat it. Look in a machinery's handbook and it will probably tell you the answer you need. Chief
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,219 Likes: 4
Campfire Outfitter
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Joined: Mar 2007
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you can harden 1018 cr to brittle. I would try oil queching and then draw it back to about 500 f. if you water quench it will be too brittle.
I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 621
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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1018 steel is impossible to harden using heat. It can be work hardened or carburized to make the surface hard. There must be at least 0.3% carbon for any deep hardening to take place and 1018 contains approx. 0.18%.
RAN
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Joined: Nov 2007
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
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You could use cold rolled and use a compound called Kasnit. This is a case hardening compound.
The part would definately be stronger, but as to whether case hardening would be good enough, I can't say.
There was a thread on here a few weeks ago about case hardening. I don't know how to search, but you might try that.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,219 Likes: 4
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Mar 2007
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1018 steel is impossible to harden using heat. It can be work hardened or carburized to make the surface hard. There must be at least 0.3% carbon for any deep hardening to take place and 1018 contains approx. 0.18%.
RAN I know this much, I have a few punches I spun out of cd1018 and they are absolutely hard now. heated and water quenched. perhaps I carburize when I heated....I do not recall, been a while.
I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 16,554
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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Check the references, AISI 1018 is universally considered non-hardenable because of the low carbon content (0.18% nominally). Maybe you unknowingly got a chunk of medium or high carbon steel? I've never noticed appreciable hardening with mild steel.
For an extractor I'd probably use O-1 tool steel (about 0.95% carbon)just because that is what I have on hand. Plain carbon steels are easier to heat treat properly with a flame. I'd bet 4140 would work if that's what you have handy, or maybe 4130.
The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh
Which explains a lot.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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Nighthawk is spot on and I'd either check Numerich(Gunparts Inc.) or make one from 4140 or 0-1.
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