Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Backpack Hunting Installing stoves in ShangriLa tipi's

B Lance,

The main reason I have always located the stove jack near the peak was to keep the pipe as close to verticle as possible and also to make the stove placement be where it takes up the least amount of living space while still keeping a safe distance from the side walls.

Here is an example of a non verticle instalation:


That was a GoLite ShangriLa 2 and I installed the jack in the mesh under the eyebrow. On a ShangriLa 2 that I sewed a stove jack into last week, I placed it closer to the peak so the pipe will run closer to verticle.

As far as stove jacks go, the Ti-Goat is very nice and ready to sew in. Another option is to get the siliconised fiberglass fabric from High Mountain Outfitters.
http://high-mountain-outfitters.com/Stoves-Fuel_c28.htm

This is a good option if you want/need a custom shaped stove jack. When going this route, I sew seam tape around the edges of the fiberglass and then the pile side of velcro to the inside of the seam tape. Make a rain cover to match the stove jack and sew the hook velcro on this. For the SL2 last week it took me about an hour to get the jack and rain cover sewen up and only 10-15 minutes to sew it into the tent.

And lastly, I am always concerned about burning my sleeping bag when in a shelter with a stove. Keep it as far away as you can and if possible, have a center pole between you and the stove.

I did not use my pole with my SL4 last year instead using a highlne (550 cord) about 7 feet up and just clipping in to it.

Do you all think that's still ok to hang it only with a vertical pipe comng out the rear vent or is it a recipe for trouble?

I have actually caught my pants on fire from sleeping to near the stove when I was in the army. Not fun!

I figured I would just stack some football size rocks around my stove to keep some distance.

Conrad,

My only concern with a highline, is in high winds the tent may flap quit a bit.

Thanks Ed. I bought a Shan 5 with the intent of adding a stove and your comments and past experience is invaluable.I appreciate the info. Don't know if you are into archery but if you are ever in the SF Bay area in Spring or summer you have an open invite to Shoot carp on the Delta with me. My shooting platform is just big enough so my 11 yr old son won't elbow you in the drink [he's hooked]....or we can just leave him home.

DO NOT put the stove jack low on a side wall. Put it as close to the peak as possible. I made the mistake of a sidewall stove jack in a SD Origami, thinking it would be a more efficient use of space. It turns out that the stove pipe is a very significant source of heat. I couldn't even heat the SD with my Kifaru small stove. I put in another stove jack at the peak, and I was back to being able to heat it quite nicely. All that exposed stovepipe made the difference.

It also turned out that the sidewall placement wasn't a better use of space anyway. So, learn from my mistake.

I sewed a jack into a SL-6 basically at the same height here but just to one side of the vent on the side-wall. Did a two day ski traverse this weekend and the SL-6 reached 60* while the temp was 7* outside. This with a large Kifaru stove. I think we could've reached a higher temp had we sealed in the wall gaps a little better with snow and shut the door:) This was the first trip with the stove so some further testing will be required to see if I really like the location but its working for me now.

One question I have for shangri-la/stove owners, Do you find that the top vents let out too much heat? Wouldn't it be better to close them somehow to trap the heat inside the tent?

Yup.

I'm making velcro on covers for the inside of them. I have used an alligator clip on the outside to pinch most of it shut. The vents do help with condensation though, but heat is my main concern.

For you gentlemen who sewed your jack into the back vent on the SL 4: The TiGoat sew in stove boot is 12" tall, 9" across the top, and 12" across the bottom. It will accept a stove pipe up to 4" diameter. Will the standard jack work, or do you need something special cut from TiGoat?

Thank you much. This is all joyous fun having a new project! :-)

you guys are making this too complicated..... the stovejack needs to be heat resistant and durable. go to the hardware store and get some fiberglass cloth and some clear silicone caulk. lay out the cloth and use a piece of carboard to squeegee a thin layer of silicone on one side and let it dry. turn the cloth over and layout the size of stovejack you want with a black sharpie. use a can of food for 3 or 4 inch pipe opening. squeegee the drawing side with caulk and let it dry and then cut it out. cheap and fast and very rugged stovejack.

Yeah, but I wanted to sew mine in. Plus you can sew velcro to the tent and have the jack removable to use on various shelters. It's wasn't complicated, it's preference. The silicone certainly sounds quick and easy too.

these get sewn in.... it is the best stovejack i have been able to find or come up with and i've sewn in over 100.

after the stovejack is sewn in, smear silicone on the stitching to waterproof the seam. i also use high temp silicone and run a bead around the cutout for the stovepipe to grip the pipe and make a watertight seal. this works very well and keeps your stovepipe stable even in the wind.

Can anybody tell me if the standard TiGoat Jack will work so I don't have to dig the tent out of the shed? :-)

Gotcha. I think I sorta misunderstood your post.

Conrad, the Ti jack works fine.

Ed,

Thanks for the vent cover idea on the SL4. I talked to Lauri, the woman who sewed in my jack, and she will sew covers for the inside using velcro tabs at 4-5 places on the perimeter. I'll send some photos when done.

Sorry that I'm not doing it all myself like you do; but I'll take all the ideas that you create. ;-)

I have a Tigoat vertex twin(a prototype), with a 4" stove jack. Originally they used thier standard jack, but due to the steep wall angle, thier wasn't enough clearance and it had to be modified. They ended up just sewing in a bigger jack. So if your using thier jack with a 4" pipe, I'd recomend checking it first.

Well I got the TiGoat standard jack and guess what, it's too small for the vent in the SL4. Guess I'll send it back.

Let me try again. For you guys who put it on the SL4 back vent, you must have ordered a custom size. Looks like I need about 16 inches across the bottom, 4 across the top and 14 height. Did you get a custom cut from TiGoat or did you find another source?

Conrad,

I haven't used the Ti Goat stove jack myself but friends have. The last stove jsck I sewed into a GoLite SL2 was one I got from High Mountain Outfitters that advertise here at the Campfire.

I think you could still use the Ti Goat jack if you slightly change the location. Here are photos of jscks installed in SL 2's. Smaller tent but similar design as far as the vent and roof go.

This is installed in the mesh vent:


This is installed just below the pole cone in the pitch of the roof:


A friend of mine used this second style installation in his SL4. I prefer this in the SL 2 and I think its just as good in the SL4 as the vent install.

Here's the ti goat jack in an SL 6

Another SL-6