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Joined: Jan 2002
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I have become a "hoarder" of late when I find something I like. Those bullets look a lot like a lengthened Ball-et I have tried before.
I had a gentleman cast some Lee REAL's for me and they shoot well, problem is they are so undersized that I can literally shake them out of the bore. Have you tried giving them a good "rap" with ramrod to partially obturate them after seating? I like REAL bullets and use them in my two Thompson New Englanders (1:48) for plinking because they are easy to load. I certainly can't shake them out of the barrel, but for plinking, I like 60 grains of FFFg, which obturates them well. Light loads with FFg doesn't seem to obturate them well (poor accuracy). I killed an antelope with a 300 grain 54 cal Real bullet about 25 years ago. It was my "flat-shootin'" bullet way back when. They probably need a good jolt to "bump" them up, as they are flat based and light. If you require a larger diameter, you might want to ignore the Buffalo Bullets too, as they are fairly easy to load in my New Englanders(so may be undersize for your bore). However, the Hornady Great Plains are hard as H to load and the TC maxi-hunters are just a bit less so. I like the looks of the Great Plains, but they are far too tight for a quick second shot. I literally had to push them in by shoving the ramrod against a tree and pushing the rifle into the tree to get them seated. Hornady used to sell flat-nosed Great Plains, but I think they now only make HP, except the 50 cal Pennsylvania bullet. You could check Graff & Sons for any discontinued bullets as they seem to have stores of older bullets. They have the lighter, 350 grain maxi-hunter listed as well, which is fairly short. The Great plains Pennsylvania bullet is only like 240 grains, so need to get close. Yet a 50 cal round ball at about 180 grains, or a 54 ball at about 220 grains will kill elk. If you stay with modest loads of BP, and not the new super loads of BP subs, a Minie bullet works well. I use a cheap Lee Minie mold to cast .533-inch dia. 410 grainers. They shoot well in my 1:48 twist. This photo includes a 300 grain 54 cal REAL bullet (center), and on the far right is a 50 cal HPHB Buffalo Bullet that I sent a bit faster into the medium. Its kinda cute; got a hole right through it; like a donut.
There are many copies.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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I would NOT use the powerbelt 270 gr on an elk. 338 platinum would be OK in my book, but I still have more confidence in the 350 gr Hornady FPB. FPB are a lead alloy and stay together better. All powerbelts are esentially a soft lead bullet. The platinum cover is just that, a cover, and it does not strengthen the bullet. What makes it hold together better is that is has a smaller hollowpoint than the standard powerbelt. That said, it would probably get the job done, but I still give the nod to the FPBs and they are MUCH cheaper.
With any soft lead and elk, bigger is better. That is why the No excuse bullets (460 gr) do so well. They are much cheaper than powerbelts as well.
The only bullet that I feel is big enough for elk and less than 350 gr is the Thor 300 gr. Being a barnes solid copper bullet, it should hold together and push on thorough.
Venor ergo sum
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Joined: Nov 2005
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Thanks for the info. I have tried several bullets. The REAL that shoots well for me is the 380g. I also have some of the 300 grain. I have shot Ball-et's, Maxi hunters/maxi balls, Powerbelts, rb's, and the Hornady's too. The REALs are the only ones that I had the problem with. Must be sized a little too small. It's not as much a problem with a fouled bore, but I really don't want to hunt for a week or more this way, CO can get really wet in Sept. and I want to be very sure I get a 'boom' when I pull the trigger Some people love RB's but I had shot three deer with them and have yet to get an exit. I tend to view muzzy hunting much like archery; I like two holes as there is not the impact force (energy, shock, whatever people term it) as with rifles.
The truth angers those whom it does not convince
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 353
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Jester,
Your brother must practice a lot! Yeh, he's kinda like obsessed with it.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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I would opt for one of the T/C's, Maxi-Hunter or Maxi-Ball bullets. If you could use sabots, I would say Hornady's SST. I toted the 250 gr version the last time I hunted NM and it worked up to par. I recovered the bullet, a perfect mushroom and it retained about 80% of its origianl weight best I recall. Ribs, no shoulder bones.
Joseph
Joseph
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Joined: Jun 2001
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Don't know about elk, yet, but the 378 gr. Powerbelt works just fine on Colorado moose.
I plan to use the same bullet for my bull elk hunt this fall.
I'd rather be a free man in my grave, than living as a puppet or a slave....
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Joined: Nov 2006
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Assume you mean the 348 gr?
If you shoot them behind the shoulder through the chest AND don't push them too hard you will be fine. But I killed an elk last year with a FPB that busted the big leg bone just above the elbow and still had enough umph to take out the heart. I feel pretty confident that a powerbelt would not have performed as well.
Just remember with powerbelts, pushing them too hard equals LESS penetration.
But, of course, that is why there are Fords and Chevys! Eveyone's personal experience with different thinks is different.
Venor ergo sum
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Joined: Feb 2001
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Mine are 50cal 370 grn Maxi-balls. Great penetration and one shot kills on elk, shoulder bones or not.
You see in this world, there's two kinds of people my friend; those with loaded guns, and those who dig. You dig.
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